HHT Heat n Glo Escape insert pilot lights burner will not

[glowNoMo]

Hi, I have a Heat n Glo Escape-I35-C that is not quite 3 years old yet. Only use it on a few weekends during really cold season. The pilot will come on and burn blue (sparking stops), I hear gear noises or winding, but burner never lights. I went through the following troubleshooting:

1) New batteries in remote
2) Reset the module numerous times
3) Tried with battery backup with electricity shut off
4) Removed the glass and checked flame sense rod (very clean, no white residue)
5) Vacuumed the burner in pilot area
6) Blew some compressed air into burner holes around pilot (used a hand air pump, nothing real powerful)
7) Put in a call for service

Can anyone tell me what I should expect from the person servicing it? What's the order of parts they should be inspecting or replacing?

This was a rather expensive unit (at least for me). Are these models really that unreliable to already have trouble in a few years? I can't rely on it when the electricity goes out?

 

[DAKSY]

Probably going to pull the burner & clear the gas line behind the burner orifice. There may be a spider's nest back there.
Meanwhile, check the ground wire to see if that could be the problem.

Here's the page from the troubleshooting section of manual:

4. Pilot lights but continues to spark, and main burner will not ignite. (If the pilot continues to spark after the pilot flame has been lit, flame rectification has not occurred.)
A. A shorted or loose connection in flame sensing rod.
Verify all connections to wiring diagram in manual. Verify connections underneath pilot assembly are tight. Verify flame sense or igniter wires are not grounding out to metal chassis, pilot burner, pilot enclosure or screen if present, or any other metal object.
B. Poor flame rectification or contaminated flame sensing rod.
With fixed glass assembly in place, verify that flame is engulfing flame sensing rod on left side of pilot hood. Flame sensing rod should glow shortly after ignition. With a multi-meter, verify that current in series between module and sense lead is at least 0.14 microamps. Verify correct pilot orifice is installed and gas inlet is set to pressure specifications. Polish flame sensing rod with fi ne steel wool to remove any contaminants that may have accumulated on flame sensing rod. C. Module is not grounded. Verify module is securely grounded to metal chassis of appliance. Verify that wire harness is firmly connected to the module. D. Damaged pilot assembly or contaminated flame sensing rod. Verify that ceramic insulator around the flame sensing rod is not cracked, damaged, or loose. Verify connection from flame sensing rod to white sensor wire. Polish flame sensing rod with fi ne steel wool to remove any contaminants that may have accumulated on flame sensing rod. Verify continuity with a multi-meter with ohms set at lowest range. Replace pilot if any damage is detected.

 

[Heatsource]

my first step is always cleaning the flame sensor with some steel wool, even if it looks clean...

 

[glowNoMo]

Probably going to pull the burner & clear the gas line behind the burner orifice. There may be a spider's nest back there.
Meanwhile, check the ground wire to see if that could be the problem.

Here's the page from the troubleshooting section of manual:

4. Pilot lights but continues to spark, and main burner will not ignite. (If the pilot continues to spark after the pilot flame has been lit, flame rectification has not occurred.)
A. A shorted or loose connection in flame sensing rod.
Verify all connections to wiring diagram in manual. Verify connections underneath pilot assembly are tight. Verify flame sense or igniter wires are not grounding out to metal chassis, pilot burner, pilot enclosure or screen if present, or any other metal object.
B. Poor flame rectification or contaminated flame sensing rod.
With fixed glass assembly in place, verify that flame is engulfing flame sensing rod on left side of pilot hood. Flame sensing rod should glow shortly after ignition. With a multi-meter, verify that current in series between module and sense lead is at least 0.14 microamps. Verify correct pilot orifice is installed and gas inlet is set to pressure specifications. Polish flame sensing rod with fi ne steel wool to remove any contaminants that may have accumulated on flame sensing rod. C. Module is not grounded. Verify module is securely grounded to metal chassis of appliance. Verify that wire harness is firmly connected to the module. D. Damaged pilot assembly or contaminated flame sensing rod. Verify that ceramic insulator around the flame sensing rod is not cracked, damaged, or loose. Verify connection from flame sensing rod to white sensor wire. Polish flame sensing rod with fi ne steel wool to remove any contaminants that may have accumulated on flame sensing rod. Verify continuity with a multi-meter with ohms set at lowest range. Replace pilot if any damage is detected.

Sparking does stop when pilot lights and the flame sense rod does glow. Always take 2 times for pilot to stay lit.

Any idea how much stuff has to come out of the fireplace to check the pilot assembly connections? I don't want to get in over my head.

So spiders crawl into the burner holes and then nest near the gas inlet and block that?

Estimate of how long it will take him to pull the burner and clear the gas line?

Thanks

 

[glowNoMo]

my first step is always cleaning the flame sensor with some steel wool, even if it looks clean...

Can I damage it by polishing it too aggressively?

You always put the glass back on to test, correct?

 

[DAKSY]

Sparking does stop when pilot lights and the flame sense rod does glow. Always take 2 times for pilot to stay lit.

Any idea how much stuff has to come out of the fireplace to check the pilot assembly connections? I don't want to get in over my head.

So spiders crawl into the burner holes and then nest near the gas inlet and block that?

Estimate of how long it will take him to pull the burner and clear the gas line?

Thanks

Do you have the manual? The electrical schematic will show you the connections. All of them should be reachable without a lot of disassembly. The area is tight & has a LOT of sharp edges, so move slowly.

Yeah, those damned spiders will build a nest that will stop the gas flow. It's almost always right behind the burner orifice. a Q-Tip will remove it.

The burner is held in place with only a couple of screws, but logs, embers & maybe the grates might hafta come out, but it should only about an hour start to finish...

 

[glowNoMo]

Do you have the manual? The electrical schematic will show you the connections. All of them should be reachable without a lot of disassembly. The area is tight & has a LOT of sharp edges, so move slowly.

Yeah, those damned spiders will build a nest that will stop the gas flow. It's almost always right behind the burner orifice. a Q-Tip will remove it.

The burner is held in place with only a couple of screws, but logs, embers & maybe the grates might hafta come out, but it should only about an hour start to finish...

I've got a B/W manual. The pictures are not the best.

So is the burner similar to a gas grill installation? No gas line connections to open/break. Just pulling it away from the top of the valve once you undo the screws?

 

[DAKSY]

The burner tray is generally screwed to the stove body floor. Once those screws are out, yes, the burner should just pull off the orifice. The orifice can be removed with 1/2" box wrench or a socket wrench. Like I said earlier, just swab a Q-Tip into the tube behind the orifice. If there's a nest in there, that'll pull it out...

 

[glowNoMo]

So last year I had a service call and tech pulled unit forward and vacuumed around it. Tested the fireplace and it ignited. He said it must have been a loose connection. Fireplace was fine all winter.

Fast forward to this year and same problem. Pilot lights and stays on indefinitely. Could my issue be the valve? I saw in another post where it was suggested to clean out spiders, but what ended up working was hitting it with a screwdriver. Could that be my problem? The tech was pretty rough pulling the unit out. I wonder if he jarred it? What would you hit? The gas valve? My guess is that it sits all summer in a humid environment and freezes up?

 

[glowNoMo]

Thanks to DAKSY! Here is what I did:

1. I took a fireplace poker and unscrewed the end so that I just had a metal rod.
2. I covered the end with tape so I would not short anything out.
3. I got down on the floor and put my head on the floor with flashlight to look under the fireplace.
4. Pulled out the back-up battery tray.
5. Behind the battery tray you can see the gas valve.
6. I took the rod and lined it up with the gas valve.
7. Grabbed the fireplace remote with the other hand.
8. Pushed the remote button and the rod at same time.
9. Kept tapping (Not too hard. Like you were poking someone but not going to hurt them) rod against valve while pilot was coming on and....Bingo! the burner started right up.

I didn't even have to unscrew one screw! Not sure how long it will work, but at least I know the gas valve is the problem.

 

[DAKSY]

Probably not the entire valve, but the regulator head.
They sometimes get "sticky" for whatever reason &
need some "convincing" to get them to work.
Glad you're up & running!

 

[glowNoMo]

Probably not the entire valve, but the regulator head.
They sometimes get "sticky" for whatever reason &
need some "convincing" to get them to work.
Glad you're up & running!

So you think this could be a seasonal thing or should I get the thing replaced? Is it in anyway dangerous? Like if it sticks closed, could it stick open? Granted it's not like a gas furnace where it's going to kick on unattended. I never run it with the thermostat remote. It never worked correctly.

I found some posts online where some people do this every year to get their gas furnaces going.

You have to buy the entire valve correct? Do you ever just replace the regulator head by pulling one from a new valve?

In your opinion how many hours labor is fair for this repair?


-Thanks for your help

 

[DAKSY]

I've had my H&G 6000 TRX-I for 11 years. I've had the regulator stick on me ONE time.
New regulator may be $100. Service call $200. If YOU do it, it takes about as long as
removing 3 - 4 tamper-proof torx screws, pulling the head, replacing the head, replacing the screws...
5 Minutes?