Hot Blast 1551E - EPA stove questions......

Kubic40

New Member
Jan 20, 2019
24
Ohio
Hello everyone.

Just purchased a Hot Blast 1551E stove.

Little back round, I have a 30x25 uninulated wooden shop up in Ohio with concrete flooring. I've been burning a hand me down stove from the 1980s, obviously not EPA and no fancy gismos and gadgets to it. Finally got tired of burning crazy amount of wood to get 55 degree temps so upgraded massively even though its not the Cadillac of wood stoves.

I have a few questions for you guys if anyone knows about these stoves or ones like it(seems to be about 4 brands with the same features and such)

Let me start.....

First off this auto draft door sucks, I DO NOT HAVE THE ASH DOOR SPIN DAMPENER. Through testing the actuator doesn't have enough power to open the door when the fire needs to heat back up, so I've manually kept it open but doing so burns my wood faster(temps stay about 350-450 flue wise). Does anyone know of any tricks or hacks to fix this actuator issue or make the door work more smoothly or a manual way to control it other than full off and full on?

Secondly these two levers I have, the secondary air and rear pilot air levers. I know these are to control the return process but can someone explain them better, the secondary air has a low side and high side but pilot air has a on-off setting with room to play in between. I read the manual about 10times but can't under stand there jargan about these or how to properly use them.

Plus anyone have any tips or tricks for me with this style stove?

Other than that I love the stove, keeps coals for 12hrs, doesn't push heat at this point but is nice not to have to restart a fire from scratch. Plus my shop being at 70 instead of 55 is awesome.

Side note this tripple wall piping cost me a fortune to be up to code good god it's a bit rediculious if you ask me, it's not hard to keep up with cleaning your pipes to prevent a fire.

Anyways, thank you guys hope to get some help.
 

bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
21,384
central pa
Hello everyone.

Just purchased a Hot Blast 1551E stove.

Little back round, I have a 30x25 uninulated wooden shop up in Ohio with concrete flooring. I've been burning a hand me down stove from the 1980s, obviously not EPA and no fancy gismos and gadgets to it. Finally got tired of burning crazy amount of wood to get 55 degree temps so upgraded massively even though its not the Cadillac of wood stoves.

I have a few questions for you guys if anyone knows about these stoves or ones like it(seems to be about 4 brands with the same features and such)

Let me start.....

First off this auto draft door sucks, I DO NOT HAVE THE ASH DOOR SPIN DAMPENER. Through testing the actuator doesn't have enough power to open the door when the fire needs to heat back up, so I've manually kept it open but doing so burns my wood faster(temps stay about 350-450 flue wise). Does anyone know of any tricks or hacks to fix this actuator issue or make the door work more smoothly or a manual way to control it other than full off and full on?

Secondly these two levers I have, the secondary air and rear pilot air levers. I know these are to control the return process but can someone explain them better, the secondary air has a low side and high side but pilot air has a on-off setting with room to play in between. I read the manual about 10times but can't under stand there jargan about these or how to properly use them.

Plus anyone have any tips or tricks for me with this style stove?

Other than that I love the stove, keeps coals for 12hrs, doesn't push heat at this point but is nice not to have to restart a fire from scratch. Plus my shop being at 70 instead of 55 is awesome.

Side note this tripple wall piping cost me a fortune to be up to code good god it's a bit rediculious if you ask me, it's not hard to keep up with cleaning your pipes to prevent a fire.

Anyways, thank you guys hope to get some help.
I know knothing about your stove but preventing chimney fires has very little to do with the requirement to use chimney pipe. That is to prevent a structure fire.
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
82,456
South Puget Sound, WA
This is a wood furnace. Moving to the boiler room where hopefully a hot blast owner can help out.
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,956
NE Ohio
I read the manual about 10times but can't under stand there jargan about these or how to properly use them.
Have a link...or a snip of the manual?
I don't know that I have seen too many people around here that has one of these units yet...you may be a pioneer.
If the actuator doesn't work right, what's USSC say about it? Will they warranty it?
 

Kubic40

New Member
Jan 20, 2019
24
Ohio
Have a link...or a snip of the manual?
I don't know that I have seen too many people around here that has one of these units yet...you may be a pioneer.
If the actuator doesn't work right, what's USSC say about it? Will they warranty it?

Sir I will get more details today and pictures, from what I've googled for the last day it seems this is a completely new model for them or I'd assume due to complete lack of tech support and forums are blank with info. Called ussc and left a voice mail as they don't seem to know how to "help" them selves after getting transfered to a few people.

Is it ok to post a link from YouTube on here? If so I'll actually make a video of it all.
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,956
NE Ohio
Is it ok to post a link from YouTube on here? If so I'll actually make a video of it all.
Go for it
they don't seem to know how to "help" them selves
Sounds a bit like a certain other company that has products of hot topic around here these last 2 winters..."couldn't find their butt with both hands" comes to mind, hope this is not how things turn out here...
 
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Kubic40

New Member
Jan 20, 2019
24
Ohio
Ok so here are some pictures.....as a saftey mech to stop a run away fire or overheat situation it works fine, closes no issue what so ever. I guess its better to have it close off than stick wide open if I'm not in the shop while it's running, plus being uninsulated and the size and it being mega drafty(built is 1988) the furnance runs 24/7 as it will never get to temp highest I had it was 71 in there so warm yes, but not at my target 75(ducting hasn't been run yet so its just dumping it staright up).....it's just however annoying to spend $1900 on a stove and proper 3 wall piping to be up to current codes and a nice selling feature not working as it should.


Also there are the control lever I know nothing about other than there for reburn purposes, this furnance does have the tubes up top to reburn the smoke gasses.
 

Attachments

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,956
NE Ohio

Kubic40

New Member
Jan 20, 2019
24
Ohio
I get it's for the reburn and such but my question is more on the setting it factor. I've acheiver full reburn before checking the fire it was pretty impressive honestly.

Like do you need the pilot air on to feed the wood with air or is it strickly for the secondary air to generate reburn...from what I've read the reburn process isn't needed once the fire is burning clean and hot.

Please be patient with me, this is the first EPA stove I've had my old was just load it, it burns full bore, you add more....nothing fancy or controlled other than a damper plug that was didn't do much open or closed as it was used and abused for 30yrs.
 

Attachments

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,956
NE Ohio
Like do you need the pilot air on to feed the wood with air or is it strickly for the secondary air to generate reburn...from what I've read the reburn process isn't needed once the fire is burning clean and hot.
They make it sound like you need to open them both up at the beginning, then once the fire is established, you start backing them both down equally to lessen the heat output and extend the burn.
On most modern wood stoves the only adjustment is the primary air...it is what controls the primary fire...the secondary fire burns off the smoke/wood gas made by the incomplete combustion of the primary fire...in many stoves the secondary burn is pretty much done after 2-3 hours, maybe 4. After that the primary air and the "rear air" would more so control the burn rate.

On most manual stoves (and many "auto" units) the secondary air is wide open all the time...all that ever gets adjusted is the primary air...once the fire is hot, you back the primary air down in small steps every 5-10 minutes...which gives the fire time to recover from its last adjustment.
Too bad it doesn't have a window in the door...that makes learning a new stove so much easier!
Seems like you are going to have to experiment to see what works...then report back here with your findings...so others can benefit in the future :cool:
 

Kubic40

New Member
Jan 20, 2019
24
Ohio
Called us stove.....apparently they have a new arm for the servo motor to "fix" the issue, we will see how this goes and report back. I find it hard to believe it will fix anything though as the motor has literally no power
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,956
NE Ohio
Called us stove.....apparently they have a new arm for the servo motor to "fix" the issue, we will see how this goes and report back. I find it hard to believe it will fix anything though as the motor has literally no power
Sounds like they need to send out a new actuator/motor and the updated arm both!
 

Kubic40

New Member
Jan 20, 2019
24
Ohio
Sounds like they need to send out a new actuator/motor and the updated arm both!

Agreed, I'll see if this "arm" has some magical powers.....the main issue with there setup is, they use a double wound spring as a "saftey mech" incase of power outage, ok good to know it's a smart idea well noted, however the spring is entirely wayyyyy to strong being the cast iron door it self has enough weight to over come the magnets in the actual motor it self.

Could we remove the spring sure, if they again didn't attach the box to the servo in a fashion that it isn't possible to remove them and be able to attach again(hallow metal so can't drill and tap)

I guess we will see if they actually send it, and to any one looking at the hotblast 1551E they know this a issue with EVERY PRODUCTIOM MODEL THEY HAVE SENT OUT TO STORES, lady flat out told me they learned of the issue after they all shipped and only give out the "fix" to people who call.

More info to come so if anyone has this issue also they don't have to jump hoops like I am.
 

nomorecold

New Member
Mar 6, 2019
42
Almost Canada, NY
Agreed, I'll see if this "arm" has some magical powers.....the main issue with there setup is, they use a double wound spring as a "saftey mech" incase of power outage, ok good to know it's a smart idea well noted, however the spring is entirely wayyyyy to strong being the cast iron door it self has enough weight to over come the magnets in the actual motor it self.

Could we remove the spring sure, if they again didn't attach the box to the servo in a fashion that it isn't possible to remove them and be able to attach again(hallow metal so can't drill and tap)

I guess we will see if they actually send it, and to any one looking at the hotblast 1551E they know this a issue with EVERY PRODUCTIOM MODEL THEY HAVE SENT OUT TO STORES, lady flat out told me they learned of the issue after they all shipped and only give out the "fix" to people who call.

More info to come so if anyone has this issue also they don't have to jump hoops like I am.
Thank you for this information! I just picked up one myself manufactured in 6/2018 I believe it says but not hooked up yet. I will have to keep this in mind and hopefully they dont give me problems if/when I call down the road!
 

cjantczak

Member
Nov 9, 2014
21
Hobart, Indiana
Any updates if the new servo motor worked? Im looking at a 1551E from tsc (my only option since I have their credit card and can do the 12 month financing, no interest if paid in the 12 months). I was originally going to get the US Stove Clayton Cf700M they had on their website come black Friday since they're supposed to have 20% off all heating stuff, but they discontinued it (my luck). So I started looking up this Hotblast.
 

Kubic40

New Member
Jan 20, 2019
24
Ohio
Negative tried two diff motors, and every back yard fix even lenthen the arm witha custom made one . Tractor supply stopped carrying the ones with servo motor and now back to the spin dampener least hear locally.

My fix was i order some 30lb hook magnet from amazon and dampen it manually that way via the flap on the door. I use mine in a shop so when im in there ill open it some more to get more heat and if im leaving for a few hours ill dampen it down so jo chance of over flame.

Wont like im at a level 100 pissed i spent all that money, but the stove as whole heats my 1000 sqft uninsulated super drafter barn/shop to 75 when it was negatives outside.
 

nomorecold

New Member
Mar 6, 2019
42
Almost Canada, NY
Dang, hated to read that. I just got mine hooked up a week or so ago and same exact problem. Not enough power to open the damper unless you help it. My buddy has the old model 1557, wonder if he would swap doors with me, haha.

I was just getting my serial number to call the company today. I guess ill see what they will send me, if anything, and ill play around with the pieces and see how far I can get. Sounds like ill end up with some “custom” manual adjustment somehow. Sucks because if it actually worked like it should it seems to work good. (When im watching it and helping the motor pull open)

Edit: We haven’t seen cold with it yet but it does seem to put some heat!
 

blades

Minister of Fire
Nov 23, 2008
3,456
WI, Leroy
Many years back had a Ussc appliance- foolish me. As to your query on the levers, a pre Epa stove I have works this way- start up main air wide open secondary closed, when up to a good temp main air gets cut back to where ever you want and sendaries get opened up, at this point it becomes a bit fiddley to determine where each control needs to be set for best heat and burn times for your particular comfort. the stove which I still have was rated at apx 1000 sq ft do not remember firebox size . I could get 8 hour + burns from it heating my 1980 mobile home which was very poor in the insulation department.

I was never comfortable with the ussc furnace I had, the auto draft was more like an automatic over fire function . I messed around with it for 2 seasons, finally just pulled it out of service and sold it before it burned my home down. I am a Englander stove fan every since .

I was very interested in the Wiseway pellet stove until the owner/developer sold it to USSC- I will never do business with Ussc again. poor support and over priced parts of very questionable quality IMO.
 
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cjantczak

Member
Nov 9, 2014
21
Hobart, Indiana
Negative tried two diff motors, and every back yard fix even lenthen the arm witha custom made one . Tractor supply stopped carrying the ones with servo motor and now back to the spin dampener least hear locally.

My fix was i order some 30lb hook magnet from amazon and dampen it manually that way via the flap on the door. I use mine in a shop so when im in there ill open it some more to get more heat and if im leaving for a few hours ill dampen it down so jo chance of over flame.

Wont like im at a level 100 pissed i spent all that money, but the stove as whole heats my 1000 sqft uninsulated super drafter barn/shop to 75 when it was negatives outside.

Well thats disheartening to read. I had seen the automatic damper when I opened up the manual since tsc supplies it on their website and I like reading through them some just to get an idea. I started to like how it was setup, so my next thing to do is research lol, which lead me here. I guess a positive note though is how well it heats for you, I certainly wouldn't have a problem heating my 24x24 uninsulated shop. Online tsc is showing by me a store in stock that has them, whats weird though is it has 2 different pictures, one that doesnt show the auto dampener and another with. I guess I'll have to take a drive there one morning before work or on my day off and see.

Thank you for the reply by the way.
 

cjantczak

Member
Nov 9, 2014
21
Hobart, Indiana
Dang, hated to read that. I just got mine hooked up a week or so ago and same exact problem. Not enough power to open the damper unless you help it. My buddy has the old model 1557, wonder if he would swap doors with me, haha.

I was just getting my serial number to call the company today. I guess ill see what they will send me, if anything, and ill play around with the pieces and see how far I can get. Sounds like ill end up with some “custom” manual adjustment somehow. Sucks because if it actually worked like it should it seems to work good. (When im watching it and helping the motor pull open)

Edit: We haven’t seen cold with it yet but it does seem to put some heat!
You have a 1551e? from the picture online it looks like it has the manual controls for the primary and secondary air(?) Is it possible to just unhook the auto damper, close the door for it and use the manual controls? Sorry for so many questions lol. I just haven't seen one of these in person yet.

Edit: looking from the front of the furnace, I see the control to the left is a rear pilot air, secondary air to the right, so primary would be on the door. Guess that answers my one question about unhooking the auto damper.

Also looking at the manual and picture online again, I feel that having the servo off to the side instead of more above the door to keep the cable straight, might make it harder for it to operate perhaps(?) But maybe it doesn't matter, I'm not sure.
 
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cjantczak

Member
Nov 9, 2014
21
Hobart, Indiana
Many years back had a Ussc appliance- foolish me. As to your query on the levers, a pre Epa stove I have works this way- start up main air wide open secondary closed, when up to a good temp main air gets cut back to where ever you want and sendaries get opened up, at this point it becomes a bit fiddley to determine where each control needs to be set for best heat and burn times for your particular comfort. the stove which I still have was rated at apx 1000 sq ft do not remember firebox size . I could get 8 hour + burns from it heating my 1980 mobile home which was very poor in the insulation department.

I was never comfortable with the ussc furnace I had, the auto draft was more like an automatic over fire function . I messed around with it for 2 seasons, finally just pulled it out of service and sold it before it burned my home down. I am a Englander stove fan every since .

I was very interested in the Wiseway pellet stove until the owner/developer sold it to USSC- I will never do business with Ussc again. poor support and over priced parts of very questionable quality IMO.
So far the 2 USSC pellet stoves I have, I've liked. Then seeing on the pellet side of the forum there's a customer support guy from USSC in there that always helps people if they have issues, gives me hope if I ever need help.

Speaking of Englanders, I did like what I seen with their wood furnace the 28-4000, its to bad tsc doesn't carry them because I would go with that, partly because I like the viewing window for the fire.
 

nomorecold

New Member
Mar 6, 2019
42
Almost Canada, NY
You have a 1551e? from the picture online it looks like it has the manual controls for the primary and secondary air(?) Is it possible to just unhook the auto damper, close the door for it and use the manual controls? Sorry for so many questions lol. I just haven't seen one of these in person yet.

Edit: looking from the front of the furnace, I see the control to the left is a rear pilot air, secondary air to the right, so primary would be on the door. Guess that answers my one question about unhooking the auto damper.

Also looking at the manual and picture online again, I feel that having the servo off to the side instead of more above the door to keep the cable straight, might make it harder for it to operate perhaps(?) But maybe it doesn't matter, I'm not sure.
Yes theres three adjustments total. The two sides are different adjustments for secondary air from what I gather and the door controlled by the actuator/motor is primary air. I am trying to think now if I can make something that I can manually turn and have the door damper hold its place instead of the auto damper motor..
 

cjantczak

Member
Nov 9, 2014
21
Hobart, Indiana
Yes theres three adjustments total. The two sides are different adjustments for secondary air from what I gather and the door controlled by the actuator/motor is primary air. I am trying to think now if I can make something that I can manually turn and have the door damper hold its place instead of the auto damper motor..
I was thinking the same. If I was home I'd take a picture of what i did on one wood burner that had a bimetallic(?) damper and how I made it work, that might work for this. But, you had mentioned you had a buddy with a 1557, I got the manuals for these stoves and they use the same door, so I feel the whole door assembly would work, I'm curious if you got all the damper parts for the 1557, if you could put them on the door of the 1551. Just thoughts, I haven't been able to do much comparing and looking up online being at work. 2nd shift sucks