Hot blast/hot water?
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I was just talking with someone about that today. I'm not doing it yet, but I'm thinking about giving it a try.
here is what i have found so far (broken link removed to http://www.hilkoil.com/product.htm) that and a old hot water heater thats what iam looking for now. Figure if i start on it should be ready for next season.Snowdooer said:
My father had a setup like that when I was a kid. 80 gallon water heater and a coil like that in the stove, worked by thermosiphon. It was in a old homemade stove.
I never remember running out of hot water, 6 kids at the time.
I never remember running out of hot water, 6 kids at the time.
Sounds like a great idea, but I'm not much of a plumber, so maybe some of you could help me out with a couple of questions. I was wondering:
Since there would be a chance that I could freeze the water tube in the woodstove if the stove was not burning (vacation), could I set up the loop to be bypassed and drained (also would apply for summer)?
What would happen if there was no water in the pipe, (it was bypassed) and the stove was hot, any damage?
Since there would be a chance that I could freeze the water tube in the woodstove if the stove was not burning (vacation), could I set up the loop to be bypassed and drained (also would apply for summer)?
What would happen if there was no water in the pipe, (it was bypassed) and the stove was hot, any damage?
you on the right track the same way you would do a water softner so you can bypass itmike1234 said:
mike1234 said:
You can get 3-way valves that make bypassing a breeze. If you run a single piece of pipe as the heating coil (such as flexible copper), you should be fine when the pipe is heated without water in it...you just would want any soldered joints far enough to not get too hot. Also, make sure you plumb in relief valves...very important, critical actually) if you go without a draw on the water for awhile, or if you overfire your stove.
I have two problems with this project:
1) My hot water heater is about 40 ft from the wood furnace. I'd be better off trying to create some "instant heat" for the mast bath above the furnace than I would trying to get the hot water to circulate all the way over to the water tank.
2) I'm planning on modifying my furnace (1537g) with secondary combustion tubes this summer. They would end up being installed in about the same location as the heating coil, unless I put the coil right near the exhaust port, which may work too. I'll have to think about that some more.
This does sound like an interesting project. I'll keep listening from the sidelines.....
1) My hot water heater is about 40 ft from the wood furnace. I'd be better off trying to create some "instant heat" for the mast bath above the furnace than I would trying to get the hot water to circulate all the way over to the water tank.
2) I'm planning on modifying my furnace (1537g) with secondary combustion tubes this summer. They would end up being installed in about the same location as the heating coil, unless I put the coil right near the exhaust port, which may work too. I'll have to think about that some more.
This does sound like an interesting project. I'll keep listening from the sidelines.....
when your hot water tank is more than 10 feet away you just add another tank 10 from the furance (holding tank not hook up to any other power source) and link the 2 tanks page 4 (broken link removed to http://www.hilkoil.com/domesticcoil-install.pdf)Snowdooer said:
![[Hearth.com] Hot blast/hot water?](/talk/data/attachments/14/14861-78eb90955f8b65f517db461221032afc.jpg?hash=HXF_YC1Ccv)
![[Hearth.com] Hot blast/hot water?](/talk/data/attachments/14/14862-8c2fa59ec431ee6dfb72bf7c9e049705.jpg?hash=HXF_YC1Ccv)
yea my wife not felling it either but that is are biggest ex-pence to tackle and they say by having the holding tank in the summer will help reduce cost by letting warmer water into the ele. hot water heaterSnowdooer said:
Snowdooer said:
I have an ESW add-on, and I haven't modified it yet for heating water (if ever), but I don't think I want to run the heat exchanger right through the firebox. I'm just interested in slightly preheating the water going to my tankless heater, so I am thinking of just running the pipe though the air jacket for the furnace. Seems a bit safer/simpler to a novice like me, plus my tankless doesn't use much propane as it is, so keeping the system as simple as possible will minimize the return-on-investment timeframe.
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