How big of a bar can I run?

[nsfd95]

I recently got my hands on a Homelite ole blue saw that runs like it just came out of the box. Manual oiler is taking some time to get used to. My question is does anyone know how big a bar I can run on this beast? Also, how is bar size determined for a saw? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[smokinj]

I recently got my hands on a Homelite ole blue saw that runs like it just came out of the box. Manual oiler is taking some time to get used to. My question is does anyone know how big a bar I can run on this beast? Also, how is bar size determined for a saw? Any help would be much appreciated.

by cc how many cc is your saw?

quote from groserider keep in mind that 3-1 ratio between cc’s of engine and inches of bar… 3X 16” gives 48, which is a tad under on a 50cc saw, while 3X 18” is 54, which is just a little over… If you don’t need the reach, the 16 will run a lot better in the cut as you will be putting the ponies into moving wood, not just dragging the chain around the bar…
seems to be a good rule of tumb!

 

[i3bpvh]

X2
The XL 12's are 54cc. I have a 16" on mine, but I bet a 18" would be better. The saw has the power to run it, and I think the 18" will give a better balance.

 

[nsfd95]

I'm not to sure about the cc's right now it has the stock Homelite ole blue limited edition bar on it. just estimating it is either a 18" or 20" bar if not bigger. will measure tomorrow as I have just gotten home from football practice with the boy and am going to have a cold one and put my feet up. Thanks for the help. P.S. no paperwork to check with.

 

[DBoon]

I have a Dolmar P5100S that has ~50cc engine with 14,000 rpm. The 18" bar on this when cutting through hickory is about the limit, from my experience. That was the advice I was given when saw shopping, and it was the right advice.

 

[Gooserider]

The GF gets all Freudian about it, and says it's a "guy thing", ;-P but the fact is that most of the saws you see in the stores, and a lot of the ones you see in the field tend to be over-barred by at least one or two sizes. Some of this is marketing, as it's a lot easier to show off a big bar than it is a big engine... I got the 3-4cc of engine per inch of bar rule from the pros over on Arboristsite, and it has really worked well on my saws...

As to saw balance, opinions vary, but I think it's easiest to use a saw that balances and sits level or close to it when picked up by the wrap bar. The more nose heavy you get, the more energy you have to spend just holding the saw in the horizontal position, and your two arms are fighting each other as your right hand is pushing down to rotate the saw around your left hand that's trying to hold it up. With a balanced saw, your left arm mostly carries the weight, while your right hand is just controlling the angle. You don't really want it to be rear handle heavy though, as the nose should be hefty enough to not want to tilt back at you if you let go of the rear grip.

Going on the short side for the bar length will make even a lousy saw turn into a wood eating machine - that's what I learned when I replaced the 16" bar that came on my 36cc Pull-on with a 12" bar... The saw is now heavy for it's size, but it cuts really well, doesn't bog down much even on a deep cut, and so forth, unlike the way it was an anemic cutter at best with the 16" bar...

Gooserider