How do you pull your stove in and out to clean it? Thinking about fab'ing a cart.

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rugadog

Member
Sep 1, 2009
10
NorCal
Hey fellow pelletheads! I've been going through the forum picking up tips for cleaning my stove and I've found a lot of great information, thank you for all who contribute. (Yes I realize it's a little late in the year!)

We bought this house last summer (2008) and it came with a Breckwell P2000i. Right after moving in we installed new flooring and tile around the fireplace, so we had to pull out the stove. While the stove was out I paid a sweep to come out and clean and inspect the stove and install. She said the install looked like it was done by the homeowner and a few things were "rigged" but it was safe. Once she was done cleaning it it was a nightmare for us to get it back in because of the install. The original install had the stove resting on 6 paver bricks resting on their side (the rigged part).

This time when I pull it out to clean it I want to set it on a cart with casters so I can roll it in and out instead of fighting with the 240 pound beast to get it back in the fireplace. I'm thinking about fabricating a frame out of steel that sits on casters. The stove will stay on this cart after I'm done cleaning and will sit on it will the stove is in use.

I'm looking for some feedback from others that have inserts and how you get your insert in and out to clean and if it's worth my trouble to build this cart.
 

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My St Croix free standing stove doesn't have a leg kit... I use wood closet rods under the stove to roll it about. I used these to unload the stove from my pick-up when I got it home... rolled it down two 2X10's and into the house.
 
Your a man after my own heart. Maintenance is a breeze if a person thinks ahead as how to move the stove. I've a freestanding unit and I leave the adapter to the stove unsecured (not sealed or glued) just for that reason I can pull it out and spin it around to either side to gain acces to the fan motors. I think casters would be great, but I would try to mount some kind of anchor plates to secure to the wall or floor to keep the unit from accidently being moved while in use. Harbor Freight sells some little furniture moving carts things with casters on them that might be just the ticket. How does your vent attach to the stove now? I curious as to how you align and attach the vent pipe to the back of the stove in the fireplace recess? bjr23
 
I was going to do that with mine until I found out it had to be 18" above the floor . Now I will have to spin it around on concrete .
 
Thanks krooser & bj23 for the fast replies and suggestions.

Harbor Freight sells some little furniture moving carts things with casters on them that might be just the ticket.
~ Thanks for the tip! I'll look at HF before I buy the steel and caster to fab. Are these furniture carts steel or wood?

How does your vent attach to the stove now? I curious as to how you align and attach the vent pipe to the back of the stove in the fireplace recess?
~ It's rigged really bad and was really hard to attach last year when I re-installed. This is another thing I'm going to fix, I was going to post pics once I got the the stove on the cart, to see how you guys suggest to fix.
 
I noticed your location and question the advisablility of placing a 200+ lb. stove on casters, permanently. Are you in an earthquake area? Could be a real compromise to safety. I qestion the reason for placing it on the bricks in the first place. What was the reason? Is it cosmetic, or functional? Was it because the shroud wouldn't fit right? If not, I would reposition the stove flat, add a short extention to the flue. You could place it on a small riser so when you need to move the stove you can slip a skid sheet (say 3/4 inch plywood). Because you are not going to be moving the stove frequently (mine moves once a year for annual service) it seems rather complicated and not so necessary.

You should check with your code enforcement people to see if the stove needs to be anchored for safety. I know there are some special requirements in certain parts of California.
 
littlesmokey said:
I noticed your location and question the advisablility of placing a 200+ lb. stove on casters, permanently. Are you in an earthquake area? Could be a real compromise to safety. I qestion the reason for placing it on the bricks in the first place. What was the reason? Is it cosmetic, or functional? Was it because the shroud wouldn't fit right? If not, I would reposition the stove flat, add a short extention to the flue. You could place it on a small riser so when you need to move the stove you can slip a skid sheet (say 3/4 inch plywood). Because you are not going to be moving the stove frequently (mine moves once a year for annual service) it seems rather complicated and not so necessary.

You should check with your code enforcement people to see if the stove needs to be anchored for safety. I know there are some special requirements in certain parts of California.


Thanks for the reply.

We bought the house in short sale. I'm not sure why original installer/ homeowner rigged it on the bricks the way he did, other than to raise it ~3" off the floor be able to attach the skirt under the front of the stove and lift the top of the shroud so it covers the opening of the fireplace above the stove. Regardless, I'm fixing the brick problem this year and one way or another I will maintain the 3" so the shroud will cover the top of the fireplace opening. Originally I was going to just build up the 3" with 12" X 12" pavers and tile completely supporting under the stove glued to each other and the floor with liquid nails, but then realized I'd still have to slide the stove in and out to clean it and that 3" lift would be a problem trying to slide it in and out.

The complication seems worth it to me, because I'm looking at having to slide this beast in and out for years. Sliding it out last year was a pain I never want to revisit again.

I do appreciate your suggestions, though.
 
I used to struggle to pull my Accentra insert in and out for cleaning on some makeshift 2x4 rails. It was always a two person job. Then I built a rail setup that's basically a low platform level with the bottom of the insert that has 8) 1" transfer roller balls on top. Its easily portable and large enough to handle the insert when it's completely out of the opening. Now the stove glides in and out on the roller balls for cleaning. It's practically a one handed job now. The technician from the local stove shop was out the other day and commented it was better than the rig they use. As a matter of fact, he used my setup to service our stove.
 
BDPVT said:
I used to struggle to pull my Accentra insert in and out for cleaning on some makeshift 2x4 rails. It was always a two person job. Then I built a rail setup that's basically a low platform level with the bottom of the insert that has 8) 1" transfer roller balls on top. Its easily portable and large enough to handle the insert when it's completely out of the opening. Now the stove glides in and out on the roller balls for cleaning. It's practically a one handed job now. The technician from the local stove shop was out the other day and commented it was better than the rig they use. As a matter of fact, he used my setup to service our stove.

That sounds really cool!

Do you think there's anyway you could post a picture? (otherwise you're just teasing me! lol)
 
Seems strange that it doesn't have a built in frame that it slides in and out on. My insert is 350 lbs and I just unclip it from the frame and yank that thing out. The frame has what looks like flattened out door gasket material between the frame and the stove bottom. I wish they had used some teflon or delrin instead, then it would slide like butter.
 
Welding up that carriage is a great idea. To secure it, why not weld a tab with a hole onto the carriage and then put an anchor bolt through it and into the floor? Those bricks are really a poor excuse for an install. I wonder if the same guy who built my house did that......................
 
tjnamtiw said:
Welding up that carriage is a great idea. To secure it, why not weld a tab with a hole onto the carriage and then put an anchor bolt through it and into the floor? Those bricks are really a poor excuse for an install. I wonder if the same guy who built my house did that......................

Ever since littlesmokey suggested anchoring it in a previous post I've been thinking about how to anchor. I think I may attach "L" brackets and anchor it to the floor.

Then again, ever since BDVPT mentioned his contraption, I've been thinking about going in that direction, too. Hopefully, he'll post picture <hint> <hint>....

Decisions! Decisions!
 
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