Well I was looking at a Englander 28-3500 then I came across the drolet tundra for a few hundred more which is somewhat of a caddy knockoff then I got thinking jez is the caddy just the way to go its a big price diffrence but over the cost of 20yrs not so much I've been burning wood for six years I'm pretty well seasoned this would be my first furnace It would be a caddy wood only with blower
how many caddy owners
- Thread starter newyorker
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
I don't remember any of the details, what is the size of your home, and how well is it insulated? There's many users of the Tundra that are very happy. Both furnaces share the same firebox, but there's a better quality in the Caddy. For the price, the Tundra is hard to beat.
It's kinda the same thing, but there's not a plug. It's a cast iron grate the size of a firebrick, covered with a 1/4" steel plate. You use the poker, grab the plate by the eyelet, then rake the ash into the ashpan. Once done, just place the cover back on the grate. I usually wait a few days then dump the ash from the pan since it's sealed to the furnace. Like most people, it's easier to just shovel, but the grate is also nice if your looking for coals. In the shoulder season I use the grate.
As for size, the Caddy will put out more heat than the Tundra, but it sounds like you shouldn't have a problem with the home your describing. With the price you can get the Caddy for, it's worth the extra.
As for size, the Caddy will put out more heat than the Tundra, but it sounds like you shouldn't have a problem with the home your describing. With the price you can get the Caddy for, it's worth the extra.
lampmfg
Burning Hunk
Do some research on the (broken link removed). 25 yr firebox warranty, fewer emissions, and proven efficiency numbers with the actual tests posted right on the website. It's nearly impossible to burn wood any safer or easier!!
I wouldn't go as far to say leaps and bounds ahead of others. From an efficiency standpoint, users from the Kuuma, Caddy, Tundra, etc. all report flue temps within the same range and clean burns. Whether a unit has 1 gram of smoke per hour or 7, there's a huge improvement over a standard wood furnace producing 30 grams or more per hour. The new furnaces are showing longer burns and a more consistent output, reducing harsh temperature swings.
There's no reason a Caddy wouldn't last 20 years if cared for. Just cleanup the heat exchanger well in the off season. I cap the chimney and place a desiccant in the firebox. During the summer, the chimney can draw warm humid air into the furnace and condense causing corrosion. Capping things and using a desiccant will prevent this.
There's no reason a Caddy wouldn't last 20 years if cared for. Just cleanup the heat exchanger well in the off season. I cap the chimney and place a desiccant in the firebox. During the summer, the chimney can draw warm humid air into the furnace and condense causing corrosion. Capping things and using a desiccant will prevent this.
Any wood furnace has the potential to produce a lot of heat in the ducting, especially during an outage. I would tie into the ductwork just down from the coil and install a backdraft damper, this way nothing can back feed into the system.
You go on the roof and cap the chimney? What do you use as a desiccant? That is a good idea.
I use a 6 mil plastic at the top, and I go to Wally World and buy a bag of silica gel cat litter. I cut a gallon jug in half and put a couple cups of the silica gel in it, and seal all openings of the furnace.
I saw the furnace drip water one time, and that was enough for me to cap and apply a desiccant. You could use damp x but it's highly corrosive if it spills. This way your guaranteed that everything stays dry in the furnace. I've seen many posts where people have seen the same with their stoves condensing water from downdrafts.
I saw the furnace drip water one time, and that was enough for me to cap and apply a desiccant. You could use damp x but it's highly corrosive if it spills. This way your guaranteed that everything stays dry in the furnace. I've seen many posts where people have seen the same with their stoves condensing water from downdrafts.
lampmfg
Burning Hunk
No we chose improved efficiency instead. We do offer them on our sauna stoves where having the best possible efficiency isn't in quite as much demand.
- Status
Similar threads
