How much bar for an 041AV?

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ADK_XJ

ADK_XJ

Feeling the Heat
Nov 18, 2014
325
Saratoga Springs, NY
Just had my old 041AV returned completely rebuilt and restored - mainly sentimental but, shoot, also cost me 1/3 of a new Stih with similiar capabilities.

That said, the old Farm Boss is now going take on "big wood only" cutting role with dropping trees and occasionally bucking the big stuff.

How big of a bar could it feasibly pull? I have a 20" but thought of trying a 25" rollomatic and I think that would tackle even the biggest of hardwoods here if I use a bore cut. Any input? Skip chains - real or fad?
 
That saw would pull a 25", but it sure will know that it's there. And you bet that a skip-tooth would help that thing stay ramped up in big wood. No doubt that's a good idea with a bigger bar on that saw.
 
DodgyNomad said:
That saw would pull a 25", but it sure will know that it's there. And you bet that a skip-tooth would help that thing stay ramped up in big wood. No doubt that's a good idea with a bigger bar on that saw.
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OK, that was my understanding, too, but I read different things. Some folks seemed to think skip chains were a marketing ploy. So, half or full skip if mainly using for dropping big trees with a bore/hinge cut?

Im leaning toward half skip.
 
If your not production cutting, and you stay with that size bar, I'd probably go with a half-skip. The idea being purely to keep the RPM's up, by having less cutters in the wood at any given time. If you do need to go bigger than that bar length, I'd probably go full. The kind of wood makes a difference too. Either way, I think you'll be fine if you stay around 25", half or full skip. I ran a 441 years ago with a 26" bar and the half skip made that saw really come to life by keeping it in the power band. I sold that saw to a friend, and now just run a 660 when I get working with big wood, stumping, etc.., which isn't very often these days.
 
DodgyNomad said:
If your not production cutting, and you stay with that size bar, I'd probably go with a half-skip. The idea being purely to keep the RPM's up, by having less cutters in the wood at any given time. If you do need to go bigger than that bar length, I'd probably go full. The kind of wood makes a difference too. Either way, I think you'll be fine if you stay around 25", half or full skip. I ran a 441 years ago with a 26" bar and the half skip made that saw really come to life by keeping it in the power band. I sold that saw to a friend, and now just run a 660 when I get working with big wood, stumping, etc.., which isn't very often these days.
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Sounds about right - that's what I've read elsewhere, less cutters means less to pull through and more space to clear chips. I think 25" would be the absolute biggest I'd ever need to go out here on the East Coast. I'm cutting mostly hardwood, though, so there are some pretty serious oaks, hard maple, etc. I can do most of my bucking and all of my limbing with my MS 271 — it's just the dropping and couple real deep cuts on the lower end rounds. And the stump.
 
Agreed on 24"-25" max bar, but you must live on a different part of the east coast, than me. I have cut oak over 60" here. Oak and Ash above 44" are common.
 
No, I'm in the NE but I'm on a former farm and all but the original hedgerows are 2nd or 3rd growth. We have a few standout examples of those trees but I ain't cutting any of them down...they've made it this far.

Anyway, 24-25" with half-skip it is.
 
ADK_XJ said:
No, I'm in the NE but I'm on a former farm and all but the original hedgerows are 2nd or 3rd growth. We have a few standout examples of those trees but I ain't cutting any of them down...they've made it this far.

Anyway, 24-25" with half-skip it is.
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Yeah, it's a shame when you have to cut into something that old, but Sandy or disease made us do it. The big stuff I've been cutting the last several years is mostly Sandy blow-down, and several dying ash.
 
You do know we want pics of the new bar, and a follow up on what you think!
Maybe action shots too? ;lol
 
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Sean McGillicuddy said:
You do know we want pics of the new bar, and a follow up on what you think!
Maybe action shots too? ;lol
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Ha, sure will — right now trying to decide if I want to shell out the extra $$ for a Stihl brand or pick up a Forester, Oregon or similar for quite a bit less. What more am I buying with a Stihl 24" bar specifically other than the name?
 
I'd go for a bar with a improved tip over a stock unit ...

(broken link removed)
 
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ADK_XJ said:
What more am I buying with a Stihl 24" bar specifically other than the name?
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A lack of grease fittings for the sprocket tip. I own a 36" Sithl Rollermatic ES, and I haven't had any trouble with it, but it doesn't have many hours on it yet. I feel much more comfortable with my Tsumura Total and Windsor Speed Tip bars, which have proper grease fittings, for blowing the crap out of the sprocket tip bearing on a regular basis.
 
just tripped across a photo of my 36" bar:

[Hearth.com] How much bar for an 041AV?
 
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Ashful said:
A lack of grease fittings for the sprocket tip. I own a 36" Sithl Rollermatic ES, and I haven't had any trouble with it, but it doesn't have many hours on it yet. I feel much more comfortable with my Tsumura Total and Windsor Speed Tip bars, which have proper grease fittings, for blowing the crap out of the sprocket tip bearing on a regular basis.
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Noted, id seen on wranglerstar's youtube about the greasable sprockets and replaceable tips.
 
ADK_XJ said:
And an improved differs from stock in which ways?
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Like anything, there are many quality levels, but most sprocket tip bars fall in one of two classes:

1. Solid bars with replaceable sprocket tips. These are pro-use bars, designed for long hours on high-power saws, in professional daily use. Example: Stihl Rollomatic ES

2. Laminated bars, more often with non-replaceable sprocket tips. These are for homeowner or farm and ranch use. They'll probably outlast the average farm and ranch saw, and may never wear out in the hands of the average firewood cutter, but they'd not live long in the hands of someone running a saw several hours every day. Example: Stihl Rollomatic E

ADK_XJ said:
Now THATS a chainsaw.
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The saw is above average. The round it's sitting on is flat out insane. I figure that one round weighed about 1500 lb.
 
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My buddy has an 066 with 36" bar. I've run it a few times, that thing rips a$$. I'd love to have an 064/066 but I don't cut enough big wood to justify owning one. So, what exactly is a half-skip?
 
Chum, I know my memory sucks, but I really thought you had an 064. No?

If you haven't pulled the cord on an old 064 or 066 without a decomp valve, eat your Wheaties! I just broke the cord on mine last week, replaced it today. Takes 4.5mm cord!
 
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Ashful said:
If you haven't pulled the cord on an old 064 or 066 without a decomp valve, eat your Wheaties! I just broke the cord on mine last week, replaced it today. Takes 4.5mm cord!
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I know what you mean. I think newer saws must have easier starting mechanisms or something.

I've got an old 056 that needs some work but that thing is a beast to pull over. Especially if it's in winter and the saws been in the truck over night.

But my 661 is much easier. It's actually easy to pull over you would never know it's as big as it is. In my opinion anyway.

And my Jonsered 2252 is so easy ( although it's only 50cc) that doing the test where you see if the saw will fall when holding it in the air by the starter cord, well it falls pretty easily. Without pressing the decomp ! One would think it is low on compression, but it's not. Just engineered to pull over easier I guess
 
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Ashful said:
Chum, I know my memory sucks, but I really thought you had an 064. No?

If you haven't pulled the cord on an old 064 or 066 without a decomp valve, eat your Wheaties! I just broke the cord on mine last week, replaced it today. Takes 4.5mm cord!
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I wanted one, have a search saved on CL for both 064 and 066 but I just can't justify buying one. The 460 does all I need. There is an 064 for sale right now on CL for $450 but the post says it might have an air leak. I'll pass on that but it is tempting, this time of year work is slow so I can't be buying another saw right now haha! I did just give my dad the 290 I have, he has some bigger Oak he is processing at his leisure and his 30ish cc Echo just isn't doing it for him so I'm down to 5 saws. If I need a bigger saw my buddy will lend me his 066 whenever I need it
 
D8Chumley said:
Kinda what I pictured in my head, thanks! I only have one 25" chain for my 460, when I visit my saw shop I think I'll see if they have these when I grab a few
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No reason to mess with it on your setup.
 
D8Chumley said:
I wanted one, have a search saved on CL for both 064 and 066 but I just can't justify buying one. The 460 does all I need. There is an 064 for sale right now on CL for $450 but the post says it might have an air leak. I'll pass on that but it is tempting, this time of year work is slow so I can't be buying another saw right now haha! I did just give my dad the 290 I have, he has some bigger Oak he is processing at his leisure and his 30ish cc Echo just isn't doing it for him so I'm down to 5 saws. If I need a bigger saw my buddy will lend me his 066 whenever I need it
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That's funny. I had set out to find myself a 460, and only bought the 064 because I couldn't find a good deal on a decent 75'ish cc saw around here. The bigger saws seem easier to find in good condition, since they might not get as many hours on them as a 75cc saw, which is probably the go-to in any pro's arsenal.

If I had a 460, based on what you say you're cutting, I'd not be looking for anything bigger. That's an awesome saw, and definitely lighter to carry than a 660.
 
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