Hudson River Saranac Convection

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Haveahearth

New Member
Jan 16, 2012
3
Western MA
Hello
I have a Hudson River Saranac, freestanding model. purchased in 12/2009. I have not been able to run the stove above setting 2 without the stove overheating since it was installed.

BAC Sales warranty department sent me a new convection fan and control board in 2011. It didn't fix the problem, so they sent me a new exhaust fan and another convection blower in October of this year. I am still having trouble with the following:
1. Unable to run the stove above setting 2 without the stove overheating and the high-limit switch tripping.
2. Convection fan is starting to work intermittently.
3. The control board lights are displaying the following: The auger light flashes during start up and then is on steadily while stove is operating (even though the auger is operating normally). The fan light flashes on intermittently in synch with the auger motor.
I read the threads from Smokey the Bear and Don. Sounds like a need a snorkel and possibly an upgraded convection blower.

My questions:
  • How do I oil the convection blower (photo attached). I see the oil ports in my old FASCO all black blower, but I don't see them on the new one. I bought 3-in 1 oil (blue and white bottle)
  • Do I need to oil the combustion blower? If so, how do I do that?
  • What could be going on with the control panel auger and fan light indicators? (I've attached a pic of the control board). I have the newer control board (the one without the Saranac logo written vertically)
  • If BAC sends me another warranty convection blower (the same one I have now), will that work with a snorkel or should I just upgrade to the US Stove replacement convection blower that Don sells?

Thanks for any help!
 

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Is that control board the newest one, because if it is (and my eyes aren't deceiving me) you have the board configured for the wrong firing rate (too high) and your convection blower will not remove the required amount of heat from the exchanger and it will both cause the convection blower to thermal off and back on.along with cook stuff inside the shell and eventually lead to a hi limit shutdown.

I'd get on the phone to BAC and have them provide you with the timing information to correctly jumper that controller.

The light you are calling the auger light is not an auger light it indicates if the stove is on low fire if blinking and at the firing rate selected on the panel if on solid.

The light you are calling fan is actually the light that indicates the auger is energized.

Those labels are for the buttons.

The fan button is where you can turn the convection blower on high or let it float with the heat range.

The auger button is for manually feeding pellets by energizing the auger.

There should also be a snorkel installed. To get the motor away from the firebox (I also hope there is a gasket between your current motor and where it attaches to the heat exchanger).

I can't speak to that particular blower as I have never used it there should be lubrication information on the motor makers plate if it can be lubricated.

The current blower I have is not OEM or one of the string of attempts at solving the problem.

Now if I was 100% certain that the controller was the latest universal one for the stove line I'd tell you to change that jumper over to the two right most pins but since I'm not certain I'm not telling you to do anything.

Hope this helps.

ETA: Happily lumbering along on cold days with my Saranac set to heat range 3 in hi'lo t-stat mode.
 
Hello

The stove is really a good stove with all the bugs out. It does put out alot of good heat. Smokey got his stove going really good!
I am installing one that I rebuilt tomorrow.

Sometimes the High Limit switches can be defective. You can really get me started by asking me about the US stove 5660 (Same shell as Saranac) hi limit switch. LOL The Hudson River switches do not seem to be quite so bad. However considering the problem that you have, I highly recommend changing out the High Limit switch above the convection fan as the very first item. You do not have to relocate the switch if you put a good one in there.
I have had very good luck with these Selcos. A little more expensive but for these stoves they are more necessary.
L250 Degree F - Air Stream Mount - $27.80
(broken link removed to http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/al-products-disc-thermostats-3-4-disc-manual-reset/-disc-manual-reset-3-4-disc-airstream-open-on-rise/se-l250m?&bc=0|1319)

The auger light should not be on all the time, but to be sure as to what is going on there, I would recommend you attach a volt-meter to the auger and see if the 120 VAC is constant or intermittent like it should be. That will definitely tell you if it is a bad control board. If the voltage is constant the control board is bad.

A snorkel prevents the convection blower from getting to hot. I measured over 130 Deg F on the blower flange when connected to the stove directly. A snorkel does help and BAC should send you one. On stoves without a snorkel you can put a nice 1/8" thick Silicon Rubber gasket to help absorb the heat and vibration. It works better than the original Lytherm gasket in there.
See my post > > https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...tion-and-noise-cut-to-fit.87598/#post-1133105

Now if you are having issues with auger jams, then I do recommend removing the auger and cleaning any and all carbon and burrs off with a wire wheel on your drill. Then use a new piece of Emory cloth from Home Depot to smooth it down and then use the high temp "Dry Moly Spray" on the auger and the auger shaft and inside the top cover for a super slick travel of your wood pellets!

You can also get the Auger Update Kit which changes the thin U shaped auger tube into the high speed thick round tube with a new auger motor and hitch pin to really pimp your ride!

All these updates will turn the Ugly Duckling Saranac stove into the beautiful swan you are looking for. I have done it.

Hope this helps.
 
Depends where it is. It should be on the wall above the fan

Where have you seen the high limit snap disc Scott? All the stoves I have seen have the high limit switch on the back of the fire box just above the convection blower. That is the standard shell for US Stoves.
 
My hi limit is on the left hand side (you facing the stove with the window glass in front of you) back of the heat exchanger at the top (roughly).
 
My hi limit is on the left hand side (you facing the stove with the window glass in front of you) back of the heat exchanger at the top (roughly).

Oh , yes Smokey you are correct. Saranacs are different.

If the switch was tripped alot then a new one is recommended.
 
Thank you all very much for the info. I will call BAC and confirm if I have the latest control board with the jumpers set correctly.

I will also get a snorkel. There is a lytherm gasket for the convection fan now.

According to the manual, I'm pretty sure my high limit switch is located above the convection fan on the back of the fire box wall near the top. Sounds like a good idea to upgrade it.

I haven't had any trouble with the auger jamming, but I will check it with a volt meter.

thanks again
 
My hi limit is on the left hand side (you facing the stove with the window glass in front of you) back of the heat exchanger at the top (roughly).
is that the old position of the new one???? I think it is the old one
 
Don, I bet you put "Dry Molly Spray" on yer eggs!

No but I was thinking it may work better on the venting than the never seez. What do you think?
 
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