Huskee 22 ton hydraulic oil questions

[beagler]

I picked up a new Huskee yesterday. After reading the manual, I was still wondering the following
-what type of tool is used to check the hydraulic oil drip stick (large wrench??)
-how often do I change the hyd. oil and how do I change it?
-what type oil filter or size do I change it with?

Any input would be great.

 

[smokinj]

should be able to get the oil filter at tsc. large wrench works for me, and havent had to change mine yet I just watch the color of the oil when it gets dark then it need change imo.

 

[burntime]

I ran dino oil in the motor for 5 or 6 tanks, then went to mobile one. THe hyro fluid is hyro trans fluid. Mine will start at 0 degrees. I replaced the filter with a fram after 3 years. Oil still looks good. I know its full because if I put it on uneven ground it leaks out the vent :cheese:

 

[LLigetfa]

I just watch the color of the oil when it gets dark then it need change imo.

My oil is as clear like water and the colour hasn't changed in years so I wouldn't put much stock in the colour theory. It might be OK for engine oil that gets contaminated from combustion and heat, none of which hydraulic oil is subjected to.

 

[smokinj]

I just watch the color of the oil when it gets dark then it need change imo.

My oil is as clear like water and the colour hasn't changed in years so I wouldn't put much stock in the colour theory. It might be OK for engine oil that gets contaminated from combustion and heat, none of which hydraulic oil is subjected to.

mine less than a year old,so your saying the oil dosent get darker as it gets dirtier?

 

[LLigetfa]

Any metal particulate that gets by the filter might affect the colour slightly but I'm just saying it won't turn black like engine oil. It would take a lot of heat to discolour it too.

I don't think calendar time is a good measure of when to change it either. Run hours or number of cord split would make more sense. I wish all splitters (all OPE for that matter) had run hour meters. Engine oil I will change every year but changing out the hydraulic oil every year would get expensive.

 

[smokinj]

Any metal particulate that gets by the filter might affect the colour slightly but I'm just saying it won't turn black like engine oil. It would take a lot of heat to discolour it too.

I don't think calendar time is a good measure of when to change it either. Run hours or number of cord split would make more sense. I wish all splitters (all OPE for that matter) had run hour meters. Engine oil I will change every year but changing out the hydraulic oil every year would get expensive.

yep agreed but I do notice that the oil isnt as clear as it was when I bought it. So when is a good time to change it?(without a time meter)

 

[LLigetfa]

yep agreed but I do notice that the oil isnt as clear as it was when I bought it. So when is a good time to change it?(without a time meter)

That's a good question and I wish I had a good answer. Being as frugal as I am, I keep checking the colour and appearance. I have yet to change the oil in mine but I'm thinking 50 cords. That's subjective too since I split mostly Ash which is less work on the splitter.

 

[smokinj]

yep agreed but I do notice that the oil isnt as clear as it was when I bought it. So when is a good time to change it?(without a time meter)

That's a good question and I wish I had a good answer. Being as frugal as I am, I keep checking the colour and appearance. I have yet to change the oil in mine but I'm thinking 50 cords. That's subjective too since I split mostly Ash which is less work on the splitter.

50 cords is about where I am at with mine the color I would have to say it looks like a deep flyer that is getting close to needing change, but wondering if a new filter may clean it up a bit?

 

[LLigetfa]

50 cord in less than a year is probably considered commercial use. I'm guessing it is a revenue source in which case I wouldn't cheap out. Change both the oil and the filter. Save the old oil, filter it, and mix it with some heavy chain oil to use it up.

 

[smokinj]

50 cord in less than a year is probably considered commercial use. I'm guessing it is a revenue source in which case I wouldn't cheap out. Change both the oil and the filter. Save the old oil, filter it, and mix it with some heavy chain oil to use it up.

sound like good advice! What do you think of changing the "oil filter only" say around 25 cords?

 

[LLigetfa]

That sounds about right.

 

[smokinj]

That sounds about right.

I didnt this go around, but might be nice to clean it up a bit for the back half of the oil cycle.(at some point that filter got to get full)

 

[burntime]

I changed my filter after about 3 years and it was like 5 bucks. Not really even a consideration when you have a 1k machine.

 

[JustWood]

I'm a maintenance freak when it comes to equipment.
I personally don't think hydro oil gets hot enough on a splitter to break down under normall home owner use. If it were me I would buy a welding mag or similar for $6 and put it on the bottom of the tank and change the filter at recomended intervals. IF the oil gets milky or dirty colored then change. But if color is ok save your money .
My biggest fear in hydro systems is metal contamination.

 

[MNtrees]

I used magnet donut ( you can find it from vehicle's auto tranny pan from salavge yard) attach to bottom of oil filter, it will collect any metal shaving.

 

[burntime]

If you tilt the splitter you hardly lose anything. Magnet is a good idea...

 

[LLigetfa]

I changed my filter after about 3 years and it was like 5 bucks. Not really even a consideration when you have a 1k machine.

Ja, $5 on a filter is a no brainer. $50 for oil is what I have a problem parting with. Spread over 50 cord, it's just a buck a cord so that's how I should look at it.

As for the $1K machine, the components that could be affected by bad oil is just a fraction of that cost. If you wear out the pump, you don't have to throw the rest of the machine away.

 

[burntime]

I agree, but you bought a machine for convienience. If its down it does no good. I agree the oil will go for years. I was just saying for 5 bucks its the contaminants that do the pump in, a filter is quick, cheap, and easy....

 

[Gooserider]

I don't have any definitive answers, but here are a few things I've picked up in different places...

1. Hydraulic fluid, like brake fluid, is hygroscopic, IOW, it will absorb moisture from the air. It becomes somewhat corrosive after being contaminated w/ water - mostly the water attacking the metal that was supposed to be protected by the oil... It is best to use a "dessicant" breather cap to help reduce this.

2. They make, for relatively short money, filter brackets that have indicators on them that show when the filter is getting clogged. Replacing the filter as shown by that indicator is a best practice, doing it by time can result in either "wasting money" by changing the filter to soon, or circulating unfiltered oil through the machine if the filter clogs up and starts bypassing before you change it.

3. Intake side strainers are a BAD idea - they can lead to pump cavitation which is much more damaging than the risk of particles going through the pump so long as reasonable care is used when adding fluid or otherwise opening the system... Note that intake strainers are also more likely to end up getting clogged (increasing the cavitation risk) as they seldom get serviced since they are at the bottom of the tank and are hard to get at w/o draining the system.

4. Hydraulic fluid, if not over heated, kept dry and properly filtered is VERY long lived, it seldom should need changing...

Gooserider

 

[beagler]

Ok, it sounds like people are suggesting the following:
-dont worry about changing hyd. oil
-change filter frequently

My questions are:
-how often do you change the filter
-doesn't hyd. oil spill everywhere when you take the filter off?
-if you do change the hyd. oil - how do you to it?

Thanks

 

[Gooserider]

Ok, it sounds like people are suggesting the following:
-dont worry about changing hyd. oil
-change filter frequently

My questions are:
-how often do you change the filter
-doesn't hyd. oil spill everywhere when you take the filter off?
-if you do change the hyd. oil - how do you to it?

Thanks

Opinions vary on filter changes - I think the best approach is one of those indicator filter brackets I mentioned, but absent that I would probably go w/ once or twice a year depending on how much I used the machine - once for typical homeowner <10 cords / yr, 2x for the commercial guy that's doing 50+

You'll want a drain pan to change the filter, but shouldn't spill all that much - One side should be going into the tank return, at or above the fluid level, the other is the line to the valve, which won't have much in it... In addition the hydraulic system is essentially sealed, so you are looking at a sort of "hamster bottle" setup where the fluid can't get out because the air can't get in, at least not in the 2 minutes it should take to change the filter...

If you do want to change the fluid, that will vary somewhat depending on your machine... Some have drain plugs in the tank, others you will need to pull the suction hose that goes from the tank to the pump off... This will drain the tank, but NOT the fluid in the piston and pump... To get most of that, you will need to manually (possibly with the aid of a comealong or other mechanical assistance) cycle the piston back and forth while working the valve appropriately. To get it ALL you will need to disconnect the hoses, etc... (Unless you have a known metal contamination issue, I wouldn't bother with this last) If you do that, remember to prime the hydraulic pump again like it was new (you did, right?) by pulling the engine over by hand (ignition off) with the valve in the appropriate position, until you see the piston move...

Gooserider

 

[kevin j]

spilling: is the filter down low? tilt the machine up so the tank runs to one side, or put a shop vac on the tank breather port.
usually the filter is high enough to be above tank level. if so, goose covered it all.

 

[beagler]

Ok, it sounds like people are suggesting the following:
-dont worry about changing hyd. oil
-change filter frequently

My questions are:
-how often do you change the filter
-doesn't hyd. oil spill everywhere when you take the filter off?
-if you do change the hyd. oil - how do you to it?

Thanks

Opinions vary on filter changes - I think the best approach is one of those indicator filter brackets I mentioned, but absent that I would probably go w/ once or twice a year depending on how much I used the machine - once for typical homeowner <10 cords / yr, 2x for the commercial guy that's doing 50+

You'll want a drain pan to change the filter, but shouldn't spill all that much - One side should be going into the tank return, at or above the fluid level, the other is the line to the valve, which won't have much in it... In addition the hydraulic system is essentially sealed, so you are looking at a sort of "hamster bottle" setup where the fluid can't get out because the air can't get in, at least not in the 2 minutes it should take to change the filter...

If you do want to change the fluid, that will vary somewhat depending on your machine... Some have drain plugs in the tank, others you will need to pull the suction hose that goes from the tank to the pump off... This will drain the tank, but NOT the fluid in the piston and pump... To get most of that, you will need to manually (possibly with the aid of a comealong or other mechanical assistance) cycle the piston back and forth while working the valve appropriately. To get it ALL you will need to disconnect the hoses, etc... (Unless you have a known metal contamination issue, I wouldn't bother with this last) If you do that, remember to prime the hydraulic pump again like it was new (you did, right?) by pulling the engine over by hand (ignition off) with the valve in the appropriate position, until you see the piston move...

Gooserider

I did not prime the pump. When I bought the splitter, the guy at TSC started the engine and pulled the lever to show me that it worked.....Should I try to prime it or assume its OK since the piston works?

To prime (if I need to) keep the engine off, but pull the starer cord to simulate starting it. Do this while holding the piston lever in the appropriate position to simulate the wedge moving?

 

[LLigetfa]

Too late for priming if the engine ran and cylinder moved.