Trying to remove the end cap of the hydraulic cylinder. There seems to be 2 slits at the 10 and 6 oclock positions. Seems strange to me that these grooves are actually useful for some type of tool. Are you guys familiar with this set up? I assume I need to take a chisel and hammer to them? Anyone know the type of cylinder this is. I have yet to find any markings.
Hydraulic end cap removal
- Thread starter gzecc
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Hard to tell from the pic but they look like holes for a spanner wrench. You could build the wrench pretty easy. But i don't see any threads there.
Some cylinders are a "snap ring" retainer. You drive the end cap into the cylinder about 1/4" to expose a recessed area inside the casing. Usually the rebuild kit comes with a piece of plastic that fits in this groove and allows the end cap to be pushed out the end without the snap ring catching the groove.
Some cylinders are a "snap ring" retainer. You drive the end cap into the cylinder about 1/4" to expose a recessed area inside the casing. Usually the rebuild kit comes with a piece of plastic that fits in this groove and allows the end cap to be pushed out the end without the snap ring catching the groove.
basod
Minister of Fire
Holes or slots as noted are for a spanner wrench.
I'm wondering if the bore is threaded internally, and not all the way to the end. I'd imagine the threads would have been damaged if it was threaded all the way to the end. Can you see any thread right at the face?
You could check out an auto parts store to see if they rent a spanner wrench.
If not a piece of plate and some bolts to fit the holes would work.
I'm wondering if the bore is threaded internally, and not all the way to the end. I'd imagine the threads would have been damaged if it was threaded all the way to the end. Can you see any thread right at the face?
You could check out an auto parts store to see if they rent a spanner wrench.
If not a piece of plate and some bolts to fit the holes would work.
basod
Minister of Fire
I found this site, shows the basic ideas of the spanner wrench/gland removal method
http://randygodwin.hubpages.com/hub...-How-to-Rebuild-or-Repair-Hydraulic-Cylinders
http://randygodwin.hubpages.com/hub...-How-to-Rebuild-or-Repair-Hydraulic-Cylinders
Doesn't look like the tube turns.
It may be a wire ring pushed into that slot, and into a groove in the end cap and the ID of the tube. that locks the two together. You have to find the end of the wire, grab it with a small pliers or vise grips and pull it out
It may be a wire ring pushed into that slot, and into a groove in the end cap and the ID of the tube. that locks the two together. You have to find the end of the wire, grab it with a small pliers or vise grips and pull it out
I can't tell from the picture, but if there is a slot about 1/4"x3/4" on the side of the cyl. barrel there is a lock ring that holds the head into the barrel. you need to turn the head counter clockwise and push the lock ring out. They are usually a major pain, but some times do come apart easy. You may be able to use a punch in the hole and spin it with a bar against the rod & punch.
Eventually figured out that the round silver plate with the two slits in it, is held in place by internal pressure and a locking ring around the perimeter. I pushed the silver plate back into the cylinder and removed the locking ring. Then eventuall pulled the ram out.
bogydave
Minister of Fire
Good job 
May have to take the pieces to a hydraulic shop to get the right size & right rubber compound "O" rings. (Buna N or something like that)
Once you take the rod out of the end sleeve, should see 1 or 2 "O" rings in there that seal the rod, or a wiper seal & an "O" ring.
Depending on the type they are hard to get them out, a scribe with a hook on it helps. You'll nick or break them coming out but they need replaced anyway.
Grease up the new ones & have clean hands when you put the new ones back in. Carefully slide the rod back in with out cutting or nicking the seals.
The one closest to the outside goes bad first but acts to clean the rod as it goes back in on the return stroke. They get hard over time & the end weeps oil.
Might as well change the "O" rings on the piston while you are in there.
Sounds like a success & cheap repair.
pictures ?
May have to take the pieces to a hydraulic shop to get the right size & right rubber compound "O" rings. (Buna N or something like that)
Once you take the rod out of the end sleeve, should see 1 or 2 "O" rings in there that seal the rod, or a wiper seal & an "O" ring.
Depending on the type they are hard to get them out, a scribe with a hook on it helps. You'll nick or break them coming out but they need replaced anyway.
Grease up the new ones & have clean hands when you put the new ones back in. Carefully slide the rod back in with out cutting or nicking the seals.
The one closest to the outside goes bad first but acts to clean the rod as it goes back in on the return stroke. They get hard over time & the end weeps oil.
Might as well change the "O" rings on the piston while you are in there.
Sounds like a success & cheap repair.
pictures ?
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