I Want My Baby (Countryside) Back

[jrsdws]

Last January I upgraded the Baby's combustion blower to the high output model recommended by AES. At that time I also start using the cast iron pellet only pot. These upgrades turned her into a fire breathing pellet burner.

Well...now not so much. I don't know if the combustion blower is failing or what.

You can start it normally either manually or with igniter. Shortly after the distribution blower kicks in, the combustion blower kicks off. This happens roughly 90 seconds after the room fan starts and causes #2 blinky vacuum error.

I've done the following things to try to figure this out:

1. Cleaned top to bottom, inside and out....leaf blower tricked and air compressor...everything. Stove is clean.

2. Blew through vac line to stove and it's clean. Just for good luck I ran a piece of wire through steel vac line to firebox to clean.

3. Bypassed vac switch....did same thing.

4. Bypassed proof of fire...did same thing except room blower started right away as it should have with switch bypassed.

5. Removed proof of fire switch and cleaned...did same thing.

6. Double checked venting and air intake for obstructions...all clear.

7. Made sure combustion blower motor was clean and free of dust bunnies, etc., and moving freely.

8. Wired combustion blower to patch chord and lit manually. It runs strong as ever.

When I did this, I kept the stove unplugged and fed pellets by hand. I didn't time anything, but after getting a decent little flame going...combustion blower shuts down.

What am I missing? Is the blower failing or what? I think I have it narrowed down to the blower motor right?

 

[webbie]

Not an expert, but can you feed 110 direct to the combustion blower and run it for a 1/2 hour or so to see if it's shutting itself down because of it's own problems (internal temp, etc.)?

 

[jrsdws]

You bet...I can try that without lighting it to see what it does. Good idea.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

3. Bypassed vac switch....did same thing.

Your #3 bypass should have taken the #2 blinking light out of the picture, check the wires from the vacuum switch all the way to the controller, for loose or oxidized connections.

 

[jrsdws]

Not an expert, but can you feed 110 direct to the combustion blower and run it for a 1/2 hour or so to see if it's shutting itself down because of it's own problems (internal temp, etc.)?

Shuts herself down around the 10 minute mark. Probably pretty close to same amount of time when all hooked up to stove. The motor is saying bye bye?

 

[jrsdws]

Your #3 bypass should have taken the #2 blinking light out of the picture, check the wires from the vacuum switch all the way to the controller, for loose or oxidized connections.

Yes sorry...never got the blinky but still lost the combustion fan.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Yes sorry...never got the blinky but still lost the combustion fan.

Ok, I'd consider doing the air compressor routine on the motor windings and cooling fan and trying the motor outside of the controller's hands hot wired for awhile.

 

[jrsdws]

Ok, I'd consider doing the air compressor routine on the motor windings and cooling fan and trying the motor outside of the controller's hands hot wired for awhile.

It's hotwired now and lasts roughly 10 minutes. Motor housing isn't hot, but warm. I can lay my hand on it.

 

[webbie]

Bad motor from the get-go - it looks like! They have thermal protection inside and for whatever reason, it's tripping out.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

The motor housing doesn't have to get really hot, an airflow blockage can get the temperature above the trip point for the air flow temperature through the motor to cause trouble. You have nothing to loose by blowing any dust critters out of the works and it wouldn't be the first time that dust critters have stopped a motor.

 

[Hdhogger]

I don't know if the combustion blower is failing or what.

You might want to check the impeller or blower wheel for any crud that has built up. If so this could put a strain on the motor causing it to trip out.

 

[jrsdws]

Blades are perfect...a light gray color with no build up. I have blown the windings, etc with compressed air while it's installed. Tomorrow I'll pull it for visual inspection and more compressed air and try it again outside of the housing.

 

[Don2222]

Hello

I had a customer with a bad ash pan door gasket that caused the blinky lite. You did not mention that you checked to make sure the door was tight.

 

[Hdhogger]

Don2222,
Do you sell pellets? If so what kind, I'm not to far from you.

 

[Don2222]

Don2222,
Do you sell pellets? If so what kind, I'm not to far from you.

No I don't, just parts.

 

[Hdhogger]

No I don't, just parts.

Ok, I'll keep you in mind for that.

 

[DexterDay]

Sounds like the motor is toast?

What was your usage in that stove over the last yr? 1 ton? 2 ton?

 

[jrsdws]

Blower motor is out and I tested it outside of the stove hooked up directly with patch cord. The motor does get pretty warm...not burn you hot...but very warm. She shut herself down at 5 minutes.

Motor is clean as a whistle with no dust bunnies or such. Time for a new one already I reckon.

It'd be nice just to replace the motor and not the whole housing or even the impeller. I'm not having much luck googling for one.

Fasco
No. 702112404
Type U21B
Assembled in Mexico
115V
1.6A
60Hz
3000rpm
Cust P/N MF3650
LR36496

Any help finding much appreciated.

 

[Hdhogger]

Blower motor is out and I tested it outside of the stove hooked up directly with patch cord. The motor does get pretty warm...not burn you hot...but very warm. She shut herself down at 5 minutes.

Motor is clean as a whistle with no dust bunnies or such. Time for a new one already I reckon.

It'd be nice just to replace the motor and not the whole housing or even the impeller. I'm not having much luck googling for one.

Fasco
No. 702112404
Type U21B
Assembled in Mexico
115V
1.6A
60Hz
3000rpm
Cust P/N MF3650
LR36496

Any help finding much appreciated.

I might be able to help you with this but I'll have to check with the admin. for the site first. I will get back to you.

 

[jrsdws]

Sounds like the motor is toast?

What was your usage in that stove over the last yr? 1 ton? 2 ton?

Way less than a ton...way way less.

 

[DexterDay]

Way less than a ton...way way less.

That sucks.

 

[Hdhogger]

jrsdws, I got the ok from Craig. I'm going to look up your motor and PM you with info.

 

[jrsdws]

Cool thank you.

 

[jrsdws]

And the search is still on.....It appears this is manufactured for American Energy Systems, thus no cross reference by Fasco.

Any ideas on where to find something other than AES?

 

[Don2222]

Blower motor is out and I tested it outside of the stove hooked up directly with patch cord. The motor does get pretty warm...not burn you hot...but very warm. She shut herself down at 5 minutes.

Motor is clean as a whistle with no dust bunnies or such. Time for a new one already I reckon.

It'd be nice just to replace the motor and not the whole housing or even the impeller. I'm not having much luck googling for one.

Fasco
No. 702112404
Type U21B
Assembled in Mexico
115V
1.6A
60Hz
3000rpm
Cust P/N MF3650
LR36496

Any help finding much appreciated.

If that is the 2 speed upgraded Magnum exhaust blower.
White wire is common
85 CFM using red wire
105 CFM using white wire

Magnum recommends using the high speed. Most other exhaust blowers are 85 CFM so you will not get the 105 CFM you need with any other replacement.