Installing a stand alone pellet stove with a few questions.

[Randallflagg]

So I will have a blank slate to work with for the most part with a bare concrete floor.

Is there any advantage to creating a platform for the pellet stove to sit on? I was thinking just a square of tile for the stove to sit on as the rest of the floor will be a floating laminate.

The stove will go though the wall into an exterior chimney, is anything needed behind the stove on back wall for fire protection?

And finally what kind of clearance should there be between the stove pipe and a wall mounted TV, going either on the left or right of the stove?

Thanks for any tips for a newbie!

 

[jackman]

I put my stove on the concrete floor. Anything else is not necessary. I painted the floor to dress it up. Adhere to the manufacturer's requirements regarding clearances and you should be okay.

 

[bogieb]

My basement stove is set upon cinder blocks. The sole reason I did so to begin with is that I was unsure if the basement got wet. However, I would not take the blocks out because to me, the maintenance is easier. If feel as if I would be laying on the floor for some things if it wasn't elevated.

My main floor stove is on a hearth (what about 3/4-1" thick?) and then on 2" blocks above that. Main reason was so I could mate up existing exhaust from another brand of stove that had been there, but I'm more than happy to that it is up off the floor by a couple of inches - again I think it makes some of the maintenance easier.

As far as clearances, always go by your stove and pipe mfg requirements for distance from combustibles.

 

[Randallflagg]

Ok, that makes sense on the manufacturer's recommendations, just don't happen to have one yet.

So it's good to know that I don't have to lift it if I don't want to. Might just make it easier to mate the flooring around the stove to the laminate if it's all around the same level. Easier maintenance always sounds good though.

 

[Tonyray]

If I had it to do over again, I would have put my free standing Harman on something much higher than I have now..
maybe even couple feet higher... would be nice to clean the stove almost standing up instead of on my 'getting older' knees...

 

[DneprDave]

I made a pad for my stove out of two pieces of cement board glued together with tile adhesive and a few pieces of tile on top of that. The pad cost about $25 to make, much cheaper than the $200 the stove store wanted. My stove sits on carpet and I wanted a pad to protect it. I keep a low stool next to my stove to sit on while I'm cleaning it.

 

[FirepotPete]

If you have the room, don't just go with the minimum clearances. Look to the future of maintenance of the stove, it's a lot easier with more room around and behind the stove.

As far as the TV, you will not want to mount it directly above and depending on air movement from the stove you will want to keep the TV as cool as possible, a little heat won't hurt. I have a ceiling fan in my living room to move the air around so the TV doesn't get much residual heat from the stove even though it is directly blowing right at the TV only 10' away from the stove.

 

[bags]

I'd leave room also if you can spare any. I pulled my stoves out off of the wall more than minimum clearances so it is easier to maintain, clean etc;

I have mine on a concrete floor that has all been tiled. It's fine. All personal preference really.

You can google owners manuals for the stoves you are thinking about and read up on clearances etc; I highly recommend doing this prior to buying a particular stove.

 

[Lake Girl]

On bare concrete there is no further hearth requirement. Hearth pads are needed for combustible materials like wood, carpet or vinyl flooring and are sized per the manufacturer clearances.

The advantages on elevating the stove off the floor for ease of maintenance may result in issues with loading pellets in the stove ... if it is a tall stove like my Elena. So that depends on the stove chosen ... download the owner's manuals for install parameters (size of venting and height) and clearances is a good suggestion. May help rule in or out different stoves...

What type of exterior chimney (brick, stove pipe) are you planning on venting into? Many still recommend SS liners for brick chimneys - you may want to check with your local building official or fire department; whoever is responsible for permitting.

 

[Mt Bob]

I'm with tonyray,raise it,easier to clean,but ran into insurance problem with putting the integra on concrete blocks,the insurance company did not like it,in case there was an earth/ground tremor,then,several years later,my new insurance company recommended to put it up on blocks?? oh well

 

[DneprDave]

Huh, my insurance company didn't care about seeing my installation, as long as it was to code.

 

[n3itn]

So I will have a blank slate to work with for the most part with a bare concrete floor.

Is there any advantage to creating a platform for the pellet stove to sit on? I was thinking just a square of tile for the stove to sit on as the rest of the floor will be a floating laminate.

The stove will go though the wall into an exterior chimney, is anything needed behind the stove on back wall for fire protection?

And finally what kind of clearance should there be between the stove pipe and a wall mounted TV, going either on the left or right of the stove?

Thanks for any tips for a newbie!

Let common sense dictate any addition clearance beyond required. For example if there is a side panel that swings out to allow for maint but min side clearance is 6"... You can foresee not being able to swing that panel open.
As for 'needing' anything under it... Not on non combustible concrete.
As for raising it. Again, can directly sit on the concrete or tile you put down. However, one thing I've yet seen mentioned here is_ there will come a time you will need to replace the appliance. And if you through-wall the vent directly in-line with your current appliance it may mean a new wall hole for the next (or having to roll 90's and park it farther away etc). Therefore raising it may provide some flexibility down the road in regards to venting the next one... But the reality is that unless you are a hard-core tree hugger (and even that's questionable)... After a few years of being a slave to the 'stove' and replacement parts will send you looking for a better way to heat...

 

[Tonyray]

Let common sense dictate any addition clearance beyond required. For example if there is a side panel that swings out to allow for maint but min side clearance is 6"... You can foresee not being able to swing that panel open.
As for 'needing' anything under it... Not on non combustible concrete.
As for raising it. Again, can directly sit on the concrete or tile you put down. However, one thing I've yet seen mentioned here is_ there will come a time you will need to replace the appliance. And if you through-wall the vent directly in-line with your current appliance it may mean a new wall hole for the next (or having to roll 90's and park it farther away etc). Therefore raising it may provide some flexibility down the road in regards to venting the next one... But the reality is that unless you are a hard-core tree hugger (and even that's questionable)... After a few years of being a slave to the 'stove' and replacement parts will send you looking for a better way to heat...

Interesting thoughts on this...
Probably won't happen for me as I don't want to have to put another hole thru the wall IF necessary..

 

[FirepotPete]

After a few years of being a slave to the 'stove' and replacement parts will send you looking for a better way to heat...

Having grown up on a farm with a wood/coal boiler, I hardly consider myself a slave to my corn burner. Maybe I've been lucky but in eleven years the only replacement parts I've had to buy were, replacement glass gasket three times @ $14.95 each, replaced the ceramic glass once @ $150.00, made my own fake fire brick to replace broken one, that cost $80.00 for two buckets of castable refractory cement that will make four boards if needed.

In total I spend perhaps 15 hours per year moving corn and then 1/2 hour per week to clean the stove and about two minutes per day pulling the clinker.

We spend less than $400 per year to heat a two story 1800sq ft Cape Cod. It used to be $400 per month with NG in the winter and we were never nice and warm like we are now.

And I'm about as far as you can get to being an apple knocking, lily sniffer. Just to prove it, I'm going outside right now and burn a tire.