Installing this Franklin stove

[lbooth]

New here and have never used or installed a wood stove. I bought this same stove last year to install in my all electric home to lower my heating bill. I have done a lot of research, but much of the information has left me with more questions/concerns than when I started
. I have several questions. I'm venting out a window using 1/4 cement board in the window and a metal thimble. Stove collar is 8". Planning on using black double wall all the way to chimney. It's about 12 ft to roof and adding another 3 ft above the nearest roof line, so about 15 ft of vertical pipe.
- can I immediately reduce to 6" pipe coming off the stove and up to 8"chimney? I've read conflicting information . Or do I need to go 8" pipe all the way? (trying to keep costs down)
-regarding floor protection. Stove legs are 4". I laid down 1/4" cement board on a laminate floor and laid ceramic tile on top. Is this sufficient? I have fire brick on floor of the stove.

 

[bholler]

. I have several questions. I'm venting out a window using 1/4 cement board in the window and a metal thimble. Stove collar is 8". Planning on using black double wall all the way to chimney. It's about 12 ft to roof and adding another 3 ft above the nearest roof line, so about 15 ft of vertical pipe.

Why just 1/4" cement board? I would frame it out for the wall pass thru kit that you get with your chimney and insulate it.

can I immediately reduce to 6" pipe coming off the stove and up to 8"chimney? I've read conflicting information . Or do I need to go 8" pipe all the way? (trying to keep costs down)

No it needs 8" the whole way

-regarding floor protection. Stove legs are 4". I laid down 1/4" cement board on a laminate floor and laid ceramic tile on top. Is this sufficient? I have fire brick on floor of the stove.

No it is not. You need allot more protection than that.

Now i have to tell you that those stoves are really inefficient and you will burn through a ton of wood without making that much heat for your home. They are just a small step up from a traditional fireplace. Also be aware that you need 36" from that stove to any combustible material

 

[begreen]

I believe code wants 4" brick on its edge with metal underneath or equivalent for a hearth. bholler is right, this is primarily a fireplace and not a 24/7 heater. They can leak a lot of air and can be hard to control. Definitely not efficient. There are many better options if the goal is heating.

Clearances are critical with this unit. 36" in all directions unless there's an NFPA wall shield behind it. If there is then the clearance can be reduced to 18" or 12" depending on the wall shield construction.