Is it worth it?

[Burro]

I'm trying to justify the cost of installing a wood gasification boiler. I realize it seems most people on this forum are much further north than I am and the annual cost differential between fossil or electric and wood is more significant. I'm finding it difficult to justify a wood fired system based on what it costs to heat my house. Here is the scoop, I live in the Ozarks in southern Missouri ( about 40 miles out of Arkansas) in a 3 year old 2750 Sq Ft log home. I plan to add a detached 960 Sq Ft garage that I will heat but only minimally most of the time to clear snow and ice from vehicles. My primary heat source is an air-to-air heat pump with propane for colder temperatures. My heating bill last winter (yes, it was colder than normal here too) was a little less than $2,000. I know a lot of you in the northeast are saying, what? Why are you considering it, if that is all you spend? Well, I'm always looking for ways to cut costs, I'm young enough that I can and still enjoy cutting wood (hopefully wear out and not rust out, me that is), I enjoy getting heat out of the wood twice, and I've got a 400+ acre wood yard. My initial investigations had led me to an Econoburn EWB-150, with at least 500 gallon insulated storage in the garage. Wood and boiler will be in a building adjacent to the garage. I am having a difficult time getting past the $12-13K that it looks like it would take to put this system in, not the initial cost but for the length time it will take to get to a break even point. Any thoughts?

 

[hobbyheater]

Welcome to Hearth!


We live on the wet and warm west coast of Canada. Our heating costs today would be about $2,500 per year for electricity. Oil would be 2 to 3 three times that amount. At the time of the install, electricity and oil were about the same cost but oil has climbed and electricity has stayed steady until recently and is now steadily climbing.
The install in the early 80s included the add on of a 10' by 24' concrete room for the boiler and storage, with a wood storage area above the boiler room. I can't remember the cost of the room but it was $4,500 for the boiler and another $4,400 for a good splitter.
Now in retirement years I would do it all again. Our monthly electric bill is $55 per month.

My suggestion, even though it's more money, look at a Garn Junior; efficient, simplistic in design and operation with a good track record of 30 years, with parts still being available for early units.

 

[ihookem]

You don't need a 150, that is for sure. I have a 2200 sq ft ranch, insulated to the max and burned 4 1/4 cords last year and it was darn cold. Also, 1 cord was poplar and basswood. You are better off with a free standing wood stove for $ 1,000 - $ 2,000 dollars. If not, go with the smallest gasser you can find. I use an EKO 25 . I run 1,000 ft of 1/2" pex under the floor in the basement. You might not have a basement though. Anyway, the pex is in less than half the floor space of the house. Just under the kitchen, family room and the master bath. I can keep the temps @ 66 F when it is -10F with a lot of wind . I run all this on 1 pump, a G&S 360? The controller is set @ 157- 163 degrees with now storage.. The boiler is running very low and using little wood. If you run a boiler this way make sure your wood is VERY dry or you will have creosote. I would suggest making sure your attic is very well insulated . If not you can save a lot of wood energy. You are lucky cause you have wood very close by and little cost to get it to the boiler. I was in Lake of The Ozarks and think it is a darn good area. You are lucky to live there.

 

[NE WOOD BURNER]

Is it worth it?

Yes!

You have a wood supply. not free to harvest but cheaper than a gym membership.

If you heat solely from wood your pay back time will be shorter than most.

 

[ewdudley]

Despite what the shills would have you believe, inflation is already bad and is going to get much worse. As a hedge, it may make sense to you to convert cash into physical assets that will produce value directly to yourself in the future.

Also, if you are confident you are able to commit to maintaining your wood supply, the work you put into it will become tax-free income.

 

[huffdawg]

After you add the 950sq feet and allow for the increase in cost of energy for the next 5 yrs, I don't think it will take too long to break even... you will be getting ahead of the game in my opinion.

 

[ihookem]

True about inflation and the fact that you are saving TAX FREE income. I meed to gross $1,500 to pay a $1,200 dollars per year heat bill. And because of inflation heat bills will continue to rise despite the hoopla about us having a lot of natural gas. Because of the cold winter, natural gas prices spiked and propane went to $6 a gallon in some cases. People were keeping their houses at 55 degrees. If you make sure it is insulated very well, especially in the attic and good windows you will get away with the 100 boiler. It's still 100k BTU's

 

[STIHLY DAN]

You already have ductwork, why not a wood furnace?

 

[Burro]

After you add the 950sq feet and allow for the increase in cost of energy for the next 5 yrs, I don't think it will take too long to break even... you will be getting ahead of the game in my opinion.

Thanks Huffdawg. The issue of future fossel fuel and electricity price inflation is one of the key factors has been driving me to look at the wood option. I realize that even though I am concerned about justifying the investment now, looking back down the road in a few years, I probably will be glad I did it. Just looking for other opinions and thoughts.

 

[Burro]

True about inflation and the fact that you are saving TAX FREE income. I meed to gross $1,500 to pay a $1,200 dollars per year heat bill. And because of inflation heat bills will continue to rise despite the hoopla about us having a lot of natural gas. Because of the cold winter, natural gas prices spiked and propane went to $6 a gallon in some cases. People were keeping their houses at 55 degrees. If you make sure it is insulated very well, especially in the attic and good windows you will get away with the 100 boiler. It's still 100k BTU's

Ihookem, in your original reply you mention a freestanding stove and someone else mentioned a wood furnace. My experience in talking with insurance companies is they will barely touch someone with a wood stove (some will not write a policy if you have a wood stove) and look very concerned about a wood furnace. Even an outdoor wood furnace or wood boiler puts a sour taste in their mouth. Thus the reason that the boiler and wood supply will be in a separate structure.
As for insulation, I insulated the house pretty well and used spray foam insulation to further reduce air infiltration. Windows are double pane. I really don't think my heating load is particularly high, I'm just looking to reduce the heating costs and reliance on outside fuel sources.

 

[Burro]

You already have ductwork, why not a wood furnace?

One word... insurance. As stated in the reply to ihookem, insurance carriers at least in this area seem to be very concerned about wood burning, period. Especially, if it is inside the house. The irony of this is they don't seem to have an issue with fireplaces... Go figure. I understand your recommendation, the house I grew up in had wood supplemental heat and it worked well except getting the wood into the basement and it is considerably less expensive than a boiler. I also have some space limitations and running pex into the house with a water-to-air heat exchanger is most appealing to me.

 

[Burro]

You don't need a 150, that is for sure. I have a 2200 sq ft ranch, insulated to the max and burned 4 1/4 cords last year and it was darn cold. Also, 1 cord was poplar and basswood. You are better off with a free standing wood stove for $ 1,000 - $ 2,000 dollars. If not, go with the smallest gasser you can find. I use an EKO 25 . I run 1,000 ft of 1/2" pex under the floor in the basement. You might not have a basement though. Anyway, the pex is in less than half the floor space of the house. Just under the kitchen, family room and the master bath. I can keep the temps @ 66 F when it is -10F with a lot of wind . I run all this on 1 pump, a G&S 360? The controller is set @ 157- 163 degrees with now storage.. The boiler is running very low and using little wood. If you run a boiler this way make sure your wood is VERY dry or you will have creosote. I would suggest making sure your attic is very well insulated . If not you can save a lot of wood energy. You are lucky cause you have wood very close by and little cost to get it to the boiler. I was in Lake of The Ozarks and think it is a darn good area. You are lucky to live there.

Ihookem, how do you operate your boiler to get by without storage? Do you baby set it with small charges of wood? It is my understanding to have a hot, fast fire and store the heat not needed for immediate demand. I remember talking on one guy from Wisconsin who was selling his gasser because, according to him, no one told him he needed storage. I saw a picture of it and it looked like it was heavily loaded with creosote and soot (maybe burning wet wood or a lot of idling time). After 2 years he was selling it. I'd like to ultimately design a system that I would only fire 1 or at the most 2 times a day.