Is it worth saving my WATERFORD LEPRECHAUN 90 O.S.A?

[HemlockHollow]

My Waterford Leprechaun stove (dated 1993 - https://www.regency-fire.com/RegencyFireplaces/media/PDFs/Manuals-old/Leprechaun.pdf) came with a cabin that I bought a few years ago so I have no idea about the history of the stove's use and maintenance. This past winter/spring I was living here full time and burning the stove more than I ever have. I noticed it was a bit smokey and not burning very efficiently (or as efficiently as it had in prior years). When I went to clean it out at the end of the season I saw a crack in the underside of the baffle. I found a replacement online for $300 (https://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/details/9731/Leprechaun-Model-100B-90-TV-RV-Phase-II/10188.html) but as I looked at how I might get the damaged baffle out I noticed a TON of cement-like build up all around the edges of the baffle and the inside of the stove (clinkers? creosote? I have no idea). I love the look and size of the stove and my sense is that it is a high quality brand so I set about trying to chip away all that build up and wrestle the baffle out. I did it! But along the way two of the fire bricks cracked. I found out that they are a specialized size and shape and there is no way to replace them. So my options are to either cement them back together or try and build a mold to create new ones. One last issue (or potential issue) the inside floor of the stove is totally encased in that same cement like build up. I don't know what it is and I don't think I can get it out. I also don't know if there are fire bricks encased in that build up or if the bottom of the stove was always just bare.

The question is, does this buildup make the stove unsafe? If not, I might consider fabricating new fire bricks and replacing the baffle. If it does seem unsafe, maybe I should put the $400 or so that I would need to spend on refurbishing this stove towards a new stove. What should I do???

Help! I'm completely new to the world of wood stoves, but I love the idea of saving a well-made enamel stove like this and I've already spent a lot of time energy getting this far.

 

[begreen]

I don't think the buildup is unsafe. The baffle cracking explains why the drop in efficiency and must be replaced. The firebricks look worthy of a stove/furnace cement repair and gentle treatment when burning. If you avoid slamming logs into them they may hold up for some more seasons. For comparison, a used Jotul or Morso replacement stove would be in the $400-$1000 range.

 

[HemlockHollow]

I don't think the buildup is unsafe. The baffle cracking explains why the drop in efficiency and must be replaced. The firebricks look worthy of a stove/furnace cement repair and gentle treatment when burning. If you avoid slamming logs into them they may hold up for some more seasons. For comparison, a used Jotul or Morso replacement stove would be in the $400-$1000 range.

Thanks so much for weighing in. This is really helpful.

 

[Qvist]

I rebuilt my Waterford Ashling. I used standard size firebrick and cut them to the proper sizes. The bottom of mine was regular firebrick but you couldn't tell without removal. It looked solid.
cemented around them to hold them in. My stove also had that strange buildup. I removed it all from the joints in the baffle and replaced the rock wool.

 

[HemlockHollow]

I rebuilt my Waterford Ashling. I used standard size firebrick and cut them to the proper sizes. The bottom of mine was regular firebrick but you couldn't tell without removal. It looked solid.
cemented around them to hold them in. My stove also had that strange buildup. I removed it all from the joints in the baffle and replaced the rock wool.

This is encouraging, thank you. Two more questions: What did you use to cut the firebrick? And where did you put rock wool???

 

[Riegel]

I have a Waterford Leprechaun stove purchased new in 2006. After ten years of hard use my lower baffle was deformed and overall the performance of the stove was lacking. I purchased a new lower baffle and rebuilt the stove. This included a new rope gasket between the upper and lower baffle and then filling in with high temperature furnace cement. The stove performed very well the first season after the rebuild. But never as well as when it was new. Some of my fire brick is fractured but not missing. I don't use the stove as much as I used too. If I ever replace it I would like a Morso 2B Standard Squirrel Stove. Four years after the rebuild the lower baffle is deformed again.

 

[HemlockHollow]

I have a Waterford Leprechaun stove purchased new in 2006. After ten years of hard use my lower baffle was deformed and overall the performance of the stove was lacking. I purchased a new lower baffle and rebuilt the stove. This included a new rope gasket between the upper and lower baffle and then filling in with high temperature furnace cement. The stove performed very well the first season after the rebuild. But never as well as when it was new. Some of my fire brick is fractured but not missing. I don't use the stove as much as I used too. If I ever replace it I would like a Morso 2B Standard Squirrel Stove. Four years after the rebuild the lower baffle is deformed again. View attachment 263009

Oh wow. Thanks for relaying your experience with a rebuild. I worry that it will need to be replaced sooner than I'd like, for sure.

 

[Qvist]

I cut the fire brick with a masonry blade on an angle grinder. I believe they make them for circular saws too. That would probably be safer. My stove had ceramic wool stuck in between the baffles and the sides of the stove to prevent the fire bypassing the baffle. My baffle is slightly warped and the screw holes are slightly cracked. No replacement available for the Ashling. I also replaced the inner back,
ash grate, re tap/ replaced the screws in the doors, made a blower,a set of andirons and some other parts. You can definitely bring them back. It works very well after rebuild and I like the cooktop but I am slowly searching for a new cook stove. I fear the door bolts will wear out the screw holes completely and the baffle may crack and or continue to warp. I may weld it back together in the short term if it does.

 

[HemlockHollow]

I cut the fire brick with a masonry blade on an angle grinder. I believe they make them for circular saws too. That would probably be safer. My stove had ceramic wool stuck in between the baffles and the sides of the stove to prevent the fire bypassing the baffle. My baffle is slightly warped and the screw holes are slightly cracked. No replacement available for the Ashling. I also replaced the inner back,
ash grate, re tap/ replaced the screws in the doors, made a blower,a set of andirons and some other parts. You can definitely bring them back. It works very well after rebuild and I like the cooktop but I am slowly searching for a new cook stove. I fear the door bolts will wear out the screw holes completely and the baffle may crack and or continue to warp. I may weld it back together in the short term if it does.

That's impressive. And super great to hear and see the details of your process. Thank you