Jotul 3 Questions

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mlasko

Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 24, 2008
94
Western PA
I picked up a Jotul 3 on FB marketplace for about 350 bucks. It's pretty much in immaculate condition. However, I believe I'm missing a few parts (which I'm going to order). I have a few questions however.

From my pics, it looks like I'm missing a "back burn plate". From some parts diagrams I've seen it looks like a burn plate that is bumped out where the rear flue exits. My question is, is there a baffle in the top? The diagrams don't show one, but there are tabs that looks like a baffle should be bolted to. Also, I can't for the life of me see where the top plate of the stove bolts to the rest of the stove. There is a seal there but I can't see where it bolts. Does it just lay on the top?

I'm going to replace a few seals and get some new clips to hold in the glass, but besides that, anything else look missing to you experts? What kind of performance can I expect from this stove? My Mom and Dad have the new cat version of the F3 and its incredible. Thanks in advance. I'm looking forward to getting this installed in our 800 sq ft hunting camp this year.

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I have the exact same stove.
The top just sits on top no bolts.
Yes there is a back burn plate "deflector", it just sort of blocks the flames from going straight into the back stove pipe and also protects the back of the stove.
There is no baffle. I think some have diy'd a baffle with plate steel but it's not stock.
It will be good for a hunting cabin for sure.
Without the baffle it probably won't be as efficient as the 3 with the baffles but it can still crank out some heat. I used to use it to heat my cape house and it did the job. My f400 that replaced it is much better but it's also a bigger stove.
That 3 you have is solid. Great for a cabin. If you were a full time burner i'd get something with secondary burn tubes.
That said if you get it hot enough it does do a type of secondary burn with air that goes around the burn plates.
But don't overfire this guy it's in too nice a condition.
 
Oh i just saw 800 sq ft cabin.
This stove will be perfect.
16" splits are the preferred size.
 
Looks like the gasket for the top may be compressed a bit to much in the corner where u can see some blackening. Keep an eye on that spot to see if you get any smoke leakage there. My stove had a similar compressed gasket in the same spot.

You can also use smoke or a flame when u have a fire going to see if it's drawn into that spot or any others around the stove.

Oh and don't put a pot of water or cast iron pot or really anything on the top of this 3. It will mess up the paint.
 
Lmk how much the back plate is. I might be able to sell u mine?
i just saw it's $115. that's way less than i thought it would be.
Definitely order it up from those guys.
 
$115 on their site.
 
Man...this is incredibly helpful info. The stove is more for supplemental heat and looking at the fire after a cold day out hunting. I'll watch that top gasket. I wonder what those tabs are for under the lid near the top of the inside of the stove. I wonder if I can put a baffle in from a later model? I'll get that rear plate ordered asap. Do replacement seals just "press fit" or is there some sort of adhesive with the seal? Thanks guys I appreciate the info a lot. We took out an old war horse Brunco stove that just ate wood. The stove pipe was about 16 inches and just went into an old 9 inch flue with no liner...didn't draft well and was leaky as all get out. I'm going to drop a 6 inch liner in (hopefully insulated if it will fit and I think we'll be a lot happier with more heat, less smoke, and less wood cutting. I can't get over how nice this stove looks for its age. The tag on the back is stamped '85.
 
Honestly i wouldn't worry about trying to switch or fab a baffle. It will be great for you as is.

It's possible those tabs are for some type of shipping bolt to hold down the top as they have in my f400.
The shipping bolts are supposed to be removed in most/ all? jotuls, although some people leave them in.
In your 3 the top rests in place with just it's own weight.

The top and door glass gaskets are held in by an adhesive. I forget the name of the correct adhesive to use?