Jotul F100 Install with Selkirk DSP and SuperVent

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Nate R

Member
Nov 5, 2015
68
Wisconsin
Just wanted to run through my install.
Got a Jotul F100 to put in my cabin I'm building. (Bought it in 2018....expected to be building sooner than I did....) 520 SF cabin, R42-50 roof, R21 in the 2x6 24 oc walls.... R10 around the slab. In Wisconsin.

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Set it up for rear exit as the wife wants the flat surface on top accessible.

Decided to use double wall stove pipe (have to for corner clearances with the rear exit anyway.....). So used Selkirk's DSP, and then Supervent chimney.
So, we have Jotul's cast iron flue outlet set up on the rear. The sticky-backed gasket Jotul supplies was put on the mating surface between the stove and the Flue outlet. to seal that joint a bit.

There was pre-installed gasket on the backside of the flue collar, on the OUTER/wider part/ring...... But on rear exit setup it doesn't touch the stove. (Whereas it does on the top exit setup.) I removed that and used it on the cap covering the top exit hole to seal that a bit better.
Then the Selkirk DSP Flush Stove Adapter, shortened 3/8", and a 3rd bolt added at the top.

I also stuffed 3/16" fiberglass stove rope in between the FSA and the Jotul flue outlet where there was a bit of a gap, and used a bit of the gasket adhesve to help hold it together while I assembled. (This gap goes away at the bottom of the flue outlet...it's tapered.)
Then, when dry, I bolted it to the stove. Then attached the DSP tee, with a level on it before adding screws.

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Chimney pipe: Got 8 feet of it, and ordered their standard (not deluxe) cap, and then the spark arrester screen.
Painted it all with Homesaver's "Black paint for Stainless" spray paint after wiping the chimney parts with 1:5 vinegar/water solution. Painted the flashing (galvanized) and the stabilizer rods with Stove Bright's "Chimney and Roof Flashing paint" in Charcoal. Neither of these seemed to adhere well.....they scratched off easily. Not surprised.... Tried 00 steel wool on the chimney but it didnt' rough it up at all. Oh well, we'll see how the paint sticks on it's own. Moved on.

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Changed out the stove legs for the long leg kit. This brings the stove just over 2" taller/higher.
Set the stove in place with more than enough clearance. We're not sure on the wall covering yet...so I left a bit extra. (like 12+ inches from the corners to the wall framing. Jotul calls for 10" from combustibles in a corner setup. So even wtih 5/8 drywall and 7/8 baseboard, we've got a bit of room to spare.)
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Ran a plumb bob from the roof sheathing to the center of the stove pipe.

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Framed out for my Selkirk Cathedral box. This got funky as I was trying to leave gaps on the sides for roof venting, etc.

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Cut the box to match the roof angle.
Cut the hole in the roof, and then screwed the box into place.

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Set the chimney pipe in place, and cut a bit more to make sure I had 2" all around.

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Then added the Selkirk insulation inside the box. Realized the flashing wouldn't fit into place with the pipe in place....so had to remove and hope the insulation stayed in place enough. It seemed to.

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Got the other chimney sections on and then secured the chimney flashing once I was sure it was level. Then added chimney support rods, as I had more than 5 feet above the roof. Added the storm collar, and touched up scratches with spray paint. Phew, happy to get this in place!

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(Also got my new firewood rack for the porch set up and stacked with a mix of red oak at ~16% MC and Red Pine at about 18%.... Glad I put this Oak (and more not pictured) up in 2018!The other firewood on the concrete is going elsewhere soon, sitting for the 2022-23 season)

Inside, made sure the telescoping piece of DSP and then the chimney pipe adapter and stove pipe adapter all appeard to fit. Success!...it was dead on enough to not look crooked! I was worried about getting the chimney hole/box lined up exactly enough with the stove pipe outlet. Not a lot of wiggle room here. Didn't install that stuff permanently, as I need to do other things yet.

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Next steps: Hearth tile needs to get installed and grouted. Then we can move the stove into place permanently and install the stove pipe permanently... Need to get some more screws though.... (Why does Selkirk give me stove pipe screws, but then tells me I need to supply my own 1" stainless screws for connecting the stove pipe to chimney!????)

After that, I'll be ready for my break in fires! Need to get the cabin soffits done, so I can then put in my interior walls, wiring, and then insulation so I can be warm in there this winter!

Also, one question.... I noticed one side burn plate on my F100 is loose. Looks like it was cemented in place but came loose in shipping. It appears the upper baffle helps hold in place....but I have Rutland furnace cement on hand. Can I just use a few dabs of that to re-stick it so it stays put down the road when someone knocks a log into it?
 
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Todd

Minister of Fire
Nov 19, 2005
9,449
NW Wisconsin
Nice little cabin. I was looking at that stove for my 600sq ft cabin but decided on the 602 then the F45 a year later. I did pretty much the same kind of corner install. You can tuck those small stoves back there pretty far so it doesn’t take up much room in a small cabin. I’d probably ask your local dealer about the side shield but yeah probably just furnace cement would be fine.
 

Nate R

Member
Nov 5, 2015
68
Wisconsin
Nice little cabin. I was looking at that stove for my 600sq ft cabin but decided on the 602 then the F45 a year later. I did pretty much the same kind of corner install. You can tuck those small stoves back there pretty far so it doesn’t take up much room in a small cabin. I’d probably ask your local dealer about the side shield but yeah probably just furnace cement would be fine.
Thanks!
Yeah, the corner install really helps make good use of the space.

Doing some more reading, seems the side shield doesn't need to be held in place by cement on this model....looks like it may just be that way for shipping.