I hope a Jotul F500 V3 owner can verify this for me. Are the baffle system and tubes easily removable in the new Oslo? I'm trying to verify if using a soot eater through the stove and a 90* tee just outside the rear flu vent is viable.
Jotul F500 V3 question
- Thread starter Russn77
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Yes, and according to the Jotul video on the new V3 the top is removable to easily gain access to the HUGE cat.
hopefully someone with one in their house chimes in to keep me honest but when i was looking at the f500 my dealer actually displayed one with the top off. I don't remember it in great detail but i do recall thinking it wouldn't take more than a few minutes to open her up and access basically anything I needed. I want to say either the cat was forward enough that I didn't see an issue, or that it would come out so easily that I didn't mind.
Yes, the manual covers it, with illustrations. It would be good to check if the expansion gasket needs to be replaced each time the cat is pulled or not. If so it would be good to have one on hand. Be gentle on the side refractory pieces.
From the manual: (yes, there are two step 2s).
The combustor components are accessed by removal of the top plate which is secured to the front plate by two M6 flange nuts with M6 fender washers, fig. 19, and two M6x40 set screws which are secured through the left and right sides, fig. 20.
Use the following instructions for combustor replacement:
1. Use the 10mm socket wrench with extension to remove the two top plate M6 flange nuts with M6 fender washers located behind the front plate inside the stove as in fig. 19.
2. Use the 3mm hex key to remove the two M6x40 set screws on the left and right sides. See fig. 20.
2. Wearing gloves, grasp each side and lift the front of the top plate slightly off of the front and side plates. See fig. 21.
3. Wearing gloves, use both hands to carefully remove the Insulation Gasket (A) and large Insulation Panel(B) from the firebox. Fig. 22.
4. Simply lift the catalytic combustor to remove it from the compartment channel. Fig. 23.
5. Remove the Left and Right Side Refactory Members and Expansion Gasket from the combustion chamber. Fig. 24.
6. Reassemble the catalytic combustion components in the reverse order used to remove them.
From the manual: (yes, there are two step 2s).
The combustor components are accessed by removal of the top plate which is secured to the front plate by two M6 flange nuts with M6 fender washers, fig. 19, and two M6x40 set screws which are secured through the left and right sides, fig. 20.
Use the following instructions for combustor replacement:
1. Use the 10mm socket wrench with extension to remove the two top plate M6 flange nuts with M6 fender washers located behind the front plate inside the stove as in fig. 19.
2. Use the 3mm hex key to remove the two M6x40 set screws on the left and right sides. See fig. 20.
2. Wearing gloves, grasp each side and lift the front of the top plate slightly off of the front and side plates. See fig. 21.
3. Wearing gloves, use both hands to carefully remove the Insulation Gasket (A) and large Insulation Panel(B) from the firebox. Fig. 22.
4. Simply lift the catalytic combustor to remove it from the compartment channel. Fig. 23.
5. Remove the Left and Right Side Refactory Members and Expansion Gasket from the combustion chamber. Fig. 24.
6. Reassemble the catalytic combustion components in the reverse order used to remove them.
I haven't tried yet, but probably will soon, but removing the top maybe a challenge because of the limited clearance of my particular install.
The baffle appears to have 6 screws holding it up. Does anyone know if I remove them, will I be able to gain access to the flue pipe for cleaning?
The baffle appears to have 6 screws holding it up. Does anyone know if I remove them, will I be able to gain access to the flue pipe for cleaning?
MEngineer24
Burning Hunk
If you have a Jotul F500 V3, DON'T remove those screws. Removing them only separates the two parts of the secondary air chamber and doesn't give you access to the chimney. Its a real PITA to get back together plus there's a rope gasket that I'm going to need to get a replacement for and glue back in now. UGH.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
I would be taking the top off to get it all back in. The fact that those screws aren’t on the parts diagram and the baffle is an assembly I’m not surprised that what you found out.
There are 2 Allen head set screws on the side of the stove and 2 nuts that are accessed inside the stove that hold the top down. The top comes off very easy. You will need clearance above this stove for maintenance, and replacement of the cat and baffle. If you can’t pull that top periodically, you are going to have trouble operating that stove.
In hindsight, picking the biggest stove that would fit in the opening turn out to be a bad idea.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
If you pulled it out the the front of the hearth and put down appropriate floor protection can you get the top off easily?
I'll measure tonight but i think the stove would need to sit almost at the front edge of the hearth to have room to remove the top. The floor in front of the Hearth is ceramic tile over plywood. Would additional protection be needed if I pull the stove all the way forward ?
How much will switching from a vertical exit to a horizontal with a 90 effect the draft? There's allread a section of flex connector pipe bent in a S shape to get from the stove location to the chimney flue. I know the installer preferred the vertical exit for better drafting. The current setup has plenty of draft.
How much will switching from a vertical exit to a horizontal with a 90 effect the draft? There's allread a section of flex connector pipe bent in a S shape to get from the stove location to the chimney flue. I know the installer preferred the vertical exit for better drafting. The current setup has plenty of draft.
Your stove needs ember protection only as long as it isn't in an alcove.
When you say it has a flex connector in an s shape to get to the flue it concerns me a bit. Is there a stainless liner from the stove running through the chimney to the top?
Yes there is a stainless liner run to the top of the chimney. My fireplace chimney services two stacked fireplaces. Each has it own flue, one offset to the right the other offset to the left.
No problem. Any thoughts on if I add another near 90 degree bend would it still draft adequately? The chimney is approximately 25' tall.