Jotul Flue Outlet to Selkirk's DSP..... And a few questions

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Nate R

Member
Nov 5, 2015
67
Wisconsin
I've searched through a LOT of old threads on this, but didn't find definitive answers to some of my questions. Some alluded to "ways" to set up DSP to flue collars and screw them together, but didn't elaborate.

I have an F100 to install. Setting it up for rear exit into a Tee, and then the tee outlet will go straight up through the roof. (With cathedral ceiling adapter, etc.)
The double wall stove pipe (DSP) Tee from Selkirk doesn't fit over the flue collar...it binds up on the outer wall of the DSP to flue collar OD.... So I ordered a stove adapter. That fits, but the inner pipe is loose inside the flue collar. Ordered the FLUSH stove adapter, but same issue. Seems Selkirk makes the ID of the stove adapters to 5 29/32 " for some reason, and Jotul has the flue collar/outlet in such a way that it has a stop, so you can only insert the pipe so far. So the inner DSP pipe diameter is too small for the Jotul collar.

My questions: How would you set this up to go into the tee, and how would you attach it to the flue collar? Since I'm doing rear exit, seems screwing the DSP to the flue collar is important.

Do I use the flush stove adapter and have some "single wall" of it showing? If so, how would you secure it to the flue collar? Use Jotul's 2 large screws through the inner wall?

Or, do I use the regular/standard stove adapter and use the 3 small screws for that into holes I drill in the flue collar? Or use the regular stove adapter and cut away some of the outer wall to access Jotul's 2 screw heads?

And, how would you seal the adapter to the flue collar, taking up the extra space? Furnace cement? 1/4" Fiberglass rope? Both?

What's the difference between Rutland's "Furnace cement" and "Stove and gasket cement"? Both are rated to 2000 degrees......


Thanks for your help! Trying to do this as right as I can, but Selkirk's DSP hasn't made that easy.....
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
89,675
South Puget Sound, WA
Furnace cement is just that, a high temp cement. Stove and gasket cement is looser and more of an adhesive. Neither will stay in place in that location. Over time they will flake out with the heating and cooling of the flue collar. How large is the gap? What is the "stop" in the Jotul flue collar?
 

Nate R

Member
Nov 5, 2015
67
Wisconsin
Furnace cement is just that, a high temp cement. Stove and gasket cement is looser and more of an adhesive. Neither will stay in place in that location. Over time they will flake out with the heating and cooling of the flue collar. How large is the gap? What is the "stop" in the Jotul flue collar?
Ok, gotcha on the cement.

I did not measure the gap last weekend when at the cabin, it seems fairly large....I can take a closer look this weekend if needed.

This guy had the same issue with Simpson's DVL on his F100.... his pics show the "stop." It's just part of the flue collar itself.
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
89,675
South Puget Sound, WA
One option is to gently bang out the crimp to expand it and achieve a better fit. The gap can be filled with stove window gasket material or gasket rope if large.
 

Nate R

Member
Nov 5, 2015
67
Wisconsin
One option is to gently bang out the crimp to expand it and achieve a better fit. The gap can be filled with stove window gasket material or gasket rope if large.
Unfortunately, Selrkirk doesn't even put a crimp on that end, it's just smooth steel.


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Ok, so fiberglass rope/gasket material is an option.
How would you secure screws to this? Just use Jotul's built in 2 screws into the inner wall?
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
89,675
South Puget Sound, WA
It's been a long time, but I think I drilled a third hole in the F400 rear exit collar for a solid connection. Predrill tap holes in the adapter so that the holding screws gets a good start instead of just depressing the metal inward.
 

Nate R

Member
Nov 5, 2015
67
Wisconsin
Update: I ended up trimming about 3/8 off the DSP "Flush Stove Adapter" to bring the double wall closer to the flue outlet. I added a 3rd bolt at the top of the flue collar, threading the cast iron. This one was only M4, and I put a nut on the inside for a bit of extra bite/security. I used Jotul's two M6 bolts on the sides. For all 3, I pre-drilled the DSP stove pipe and was extra careful to make sure the screw threaded through the metal and not just pushed it as mentioned.

I also stuffed 3/16" fiberglass stove rope in between the FSA and the Jotul flue outlet where there was a bit of a gap, and used a bit of the gasket adhesive to help hold it together while I assembled. (This gap goes away at the bottom of the flue outlet...it's tapered.)
Then, when dry, I bolted it to the stove. Then attached the DSP tee, with a level on it before adding screws.

From this view, you can see the Jotul Flue outlet into the shortened DSP Flush Stove adapter into the DSP Tee.

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Glad I added the 3rd bolt..... The stove pipe put a lot of weight/leverage on the tee!