Need a little trailer wire help?

[Don2222]

Just using the trailer last Saturday for a dump run. It was early on a cold frosty day and the car windshield had a nice layer of snowy ice to scrape off. Well I connected up the trailer and off we went. Then I heard a thump and dragging and we pulls right over. We found that because of the ice, the trailer latch did not properly engage under the ball and popped off and pulled the light connectors apart, The chains kept it attached to the car but the trailer latch dragged on the pavement for a few feet. So I properly latched it on the ball after scraping out the ice and when I went to plug it in and to my dismay the wires were ruined!
The tongue on the trailer must have dragged the wires on the asphalt!!
So I picked up a new connected with wires and spiced it on. The lights are working now but here is my question?
How can I protect the wires of this happens again? See pics below

 

[Bad LP]

Make sure the trailer is properly connected?
Adhesive lined shrink butt connections are the best way to put the new pig tail on. The cleaner it is the better the job.

 

[tlc1976]

Maybe put some flex conduit over the wires? I only use 7 wire connectors, and use a heavy multi conductor cord at both car and trailer. It seals up better too. The connectors you got will probably corrode from road salt by spring, unless you were to heat shrink them well.

How did you get ice that stopped the ball from seating? Was the tongue stored on the ground?

 

[Don2222]

Hello
Thanks
I also found this
Trailer Hitch Lock Coupler Locking Pin ??

 

[Don2222]

Maybe put some flex conduit over the wires? I only use 7 wire connectors, and use a heavy multi conductor cord at both car and trailer. It seals up better too. The connectors you got will probably corrode from road salt by spring, unless you were to heat shrink them well.

How did you get ice that stopped the ball from seating? Was the tongue stored on the ground?

Not sure how the ice got in there, I have a trailer jack. We did have an ice storm.
The butt connectors I got have heat shrink ends and the wire harness is 16 Guage.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hf-heavy-duty-trailer-jack-comes-with-assembly-hardware-instructions-state-“weld-it-on”.187284/

 

[tlc1976]

Hello
Thanks
I also found this
Trailer Hitch Lock Coupler Locking Pin ??

View attachment 286867

I’ve used those before, they work. I currently just use a u style master lock, and one on the back door which is keyed alike.

In any case, I never go without putting at least something in there. If it were to vibrate open that would be bad news. I’ve put a nut and bolt through it at times, or wrapped wire through there in a pinch.

The reason I go with the heavy cable for the wiring isn’t so much for current carrying ability. It’s because of the heavy jacketing that has some forgiveness if it hits the ground, or gets pinched in the chains. It’s too thick to get pinched in the ball.

 

[zrock]

zip tie your wire down the side of the hitch, looking at your wires it looks like they are short so as soon as the trailer falls off it rips the plug out. So you either lengthen them and do a few raps with some light duty zip ties so they break it it comes apart again or make sure the trailer is locked. As far as the hitch lock goes does not matter what you use if the hitch is not locked properly its not going to help if your driving around without a lock pin well then.... I use a pad lock on the hitch keyed the same as my truck then i never have to look for the key

 

[Don2222]

zip tie your wire down the side of the hitch, looking at your wires it looks like they are short so as soon as the trailer falls off it rips the plug out. So you either lengthen them and do a few raps with some light duty zip ties so they break it it comes apart again or make sure the trailer is locked. As far as the hitch lock goes does not matter what you use if the hitch is not locked properly its not going to help if your driving around without a lock pin well then.... I use a pad lock on the hitch keyed the same as my truck then i never have to look for the key

Hi
Thanks for your suggestion.
Just got this Master Lock at Autozone

 

[Don2222]

Also just got this 1/2” wire wrap at Lowe’s

 

[rottiman]

In any case, I never go without putting at least something in there. If it were to vibrate open that would be bad news. I’ve put a nut and bolt through it at times, or wrapped wire through there in a pinch.

In my area if you get stopped without some sort of pin thru the coupler it will cost you a $210 ticket.

 

[zrock]

if you live in a cold climate take that lock off.. I used those when i first got my trailer and had to cut them of several time, they would rust up inside or freeze up in the winter..

Bolt Series Receiver Locks | Mobile Living | Truck and SUV Accessories

mobilliving.com

I use this padlock now had it fail once in 8 years and they sent me a new one no questions... Opens every time no matter the temp

 

[Don2222]

In my area if you get stopped without some sort of pin thru the coupler it will cost you a $210 ticket.

Wow!

 

[rottiman]

if you live in a cold climate take that lock off.. I used those when i first got my trailer and had to cut them of several time, they would rust up inside or freeze up in the winter..

Bolt Series Receiver Locks | Mobile Living | Truck and SUV Accessories

mobilliving.com

I use this padlock now had it fail once in 8 years and they sent me a new one no questions... Opens every time no matter the temp

If you spray your lock thru the keyhole with fluid film it will never freeze up or rust.

 

[zrock]

done that with those ones and they always screw up

 

[tlc1976]

if you live in a cold climate take that lock off.. I used those when i first got my trailer and had to cut them of several time, they would rust up inside or freeze up in the winter..

Bolt Series Receiver Locks | Mobile Living | Truck and SUV Accessories

mobilliving.com

I use this padlock now had it fail once in 8 years and they sent me a new one no questions... Opens every time no matter the temp

I remember now mine went to crap too and had to cut it off. Same with one of those drawbar locks. That was like 20 years ago. I just use a pin now and take out the drawbar when done.

Here’s what I use on the coupler. Another one keyed alike for the back door. I just spray it with PB Blaster once in awhile and don’t have any problems.

Brinks Solid Brass Padlock, 40mm Body with 2-1/2 inch Long Shackle, 2 Pack Keyed-Alike - Walmart.com

Today Buy Brinks Solid Brass Padlock, 40mm Body with 2-1/2 inch Long Shackle, 2 Pack Keyed-Alike at Walmart.com

www.google.com

 

[EatenByLimestone]

In my area if you get stopped without some sort of pin thru the coupler it will cost you a $210 ticket.

We need a pin too. I just picked up 3 new ones so there are always extras with the trucks. We never know who is pulling the trailer.

 

[MrCool1]

what size ball and what size coupler is on those? I only ask because I have seen even matching 1 7/8 pop off many times- but lately have been seeing even U-haul locally put a two inch coupler (their trailer) on a 1 7/8 ball. I have converted all of my highway stuff to 2 5/16 - but half of that is just for my convenience - sometimes I drag three different trailers in on day - sometimes having to switch between them a couple times each - and not having to change the stinger on my pickup is proof of just how lazy I am!
if 1 7/8 I would go to the bother and upgrade to 2. (me, I go 2 5/16, but out of laziness on the smaller ones!) even my pickup bed trailer has been converted. I have a class 5 two and a half inch receiver - so the stingers are a little heavier. that's my excuse!
I have rules for myself - if I am hooking up or unhooking - complete the job - don't stop in the middle. I have a routine - and I check lights and look over the connections and tire pressure before rolling after hookup.
I have a friend that started to unhook, cell phone rang and he walked away talking on the phone - his wife jumped in the pickup and started to drive away - bent the jack, busted the light cord free - I am lucky, the wife won't touch the truck!

also - cross those chains, and tight enough to not let the tongue hit the ground - that will save a lot of damage on things.
crossing them is required in most states in the US.
like someone else earlier mentioned - I need the 7 conductor, and I get the fancy silicone based jacket - stays flexible to like 40 below - I don't think one can even find that in the 4 conductor. the stuff you got can help, and looks way better than just wires- can be useful if an official is looking at a trailer setup on a traffic stop - maintained is a good thing.
with those butt connectors you used you should get many years of use - but if you start having light issues - go there first - and if you don't want to solder them - crimp - but then put in some of that silicone grease before final cover - it will outlast anything else - even ODOT uses that concept in all of their underground loop connections for traffic light controls - the guy that got them started on that was actually a genius - proud to say a friend of mine - and he did extensive tests on it. here in the Pacific Northwest water is a problem in electrical slpices.

I would only use a lock on my trailer if I was parking and not wanting stolen - (short term) - like at a truck stop or the like. I have (now) found and use padlocks that are keyed the same as my house. more likely to have the key with me. just sayin'.
might be how I learned that one.
I use the spring loop pins - a lock or a pin is required in a lot of states - and if they find a reason to pull you over it is an easy ticket to write.
they also don't freeze/corrode up so you can't get them off. and spares in each rig are genius! I have two in my truck - have given them away to people after helping get their trailer back on their rig after an indecent out on the highway.
happy towing!
R

 

[zrock]

The 4 wire is available in the Arctic flex i stock it all the time... you can even get the 4 wire round plugs they are used on the weigh scales on logging trucks... That's all we sell now i got rid of all the cheap wire and most of the time i sell it by the 250ft roll. It comes in 2-7 wire versions

 

[Don2222]

The 4 wire is available in the Arctic flex i stock it all the time... you can even get the 4 wire round plugs they are used on the weigh scales on logging trucks... That's all we sell now i got rid of all the cheap wire and most of the time i sell it by the 250ft roll. It comes in 2-7 wire versions

Wow, that stuff looks amazing!
Thanks

ARCTIC TRAILER CABLE 14/4 BLUE 14GA 4 CONDUCTORS

Our rugged, ultra-flexible 100% copper wire is widely used and PROVEN in some of the coldest climates on earth! Top quality wiring supplies. Shop online!

store.polarwire.com

Are there 4 wire plugs with that wire on them?

 

[MrCool1]

awesome- that is exactly what I use in the 7 conductor. once I tried it - all I use on my trailers.
awesome to know what is available - I will let the company I drove log truck for know about it - they would benefit a lot - thanks for carrying that cable!