New Furnace Day: Drolet Heat Commander

[brenndatomu]

Keep in mind, from what I was told, proper gasification is dependent on pre-heated air being used for combustion. Using outside air for combustion may affect this if the method used for preheating doesn't heat the cold outside air enough.

The HC comes with the option to do a direct connect OAK, so it must be ok?

 

[JRHAWK9]

The HC comes with the option to do a direct connect OAK, so it must be ok?

Could very well be......or it could be there just for flexibility/marketing at the expense of burn efficiency.

Wonder if the furnace was tested with it hooked up vs not hooked up?

 

[Gbawol42]

So I joined the Heat Commander club and got her fired for the first time yesterday.

Still trying to find out some operational specs though. After loading on hot coals and pressing the button how long until it starts dialing back the primary air? I heard the grate air close, but it's been 18 min and the primary is still fully open. Just making sure I have proper functionality. I know it's all temp based, but I feel I would have dialed the air back quite a while ago. What has everyone else's experience been on a startup?

Thermostat is satisfied, button is blinking green meaning energy saving mode.

The pic is 18 minutes in, fire is good and hot. I look in the back and it seems the air is still wide open. That is the primary air I circled in the second pic right? Sorry it was taken through the grate, not the best pic

Edit: so upon further looking is that middle always open and there is a shutter on each side of the middle? I wish that back panel came off easier so I could investigate, but I would have to remove my flue to take a screw out.

 

[trx250r87]

If thermostat is satisfied then the primary air should be at nearly closed position, maybe 30% open at first then slowly close more every couple seconds. Then, you might hear the primary damper motor slightly open/close to maintain optimal burn. This should be on the same side as the reload button. The opposite side is the damper motor for the ash grate. The secondary air enters through the fixed open window at the rear center.

Eric

 

[Gbawol42]

If thermostat is satisfied then the primary air should be at nearly closed position, maybe 30% open at first then slowly close more every couple seconds. Then, you might hear the primary damper motor slightly open/close to maintain optimal burn. This should be on the same side as the reload button. The opposite side is the damper motor for the ash grate. The secondary air enters through the fixed open window at the rear center.

Eric

Gotcha, thanks for clarifying. I will have to look on next reload as I left the house. I feel though the fire was not dialed down enough, I didn't see any secondary flames either, just flames from the logs itself.

The Heatmax was very apparent when that dampener closed, the logs almost stopped firing immediately and the secondary flames were all you saw. I haven't really seen that yet with the Commander.

Like I said I will have to sit down and really watch the fire one day for the first hour or so.

 

[Rockstar1346]

Gotcha, thanks for clarifying. I will have to look on next reload as I left the house. I feel though the fire was not dialed down enough, I didn't see any secondary flames either, just flames from the logs itself.

The Heatmax was very apparent when that dampener closed, the logs almost stopped firing immediately and the secondary flames were all you saw. I haven't really seen that yet with the Commander.

Like I said I will have to sit down and really watch the fire one day for the first hour or so.

Do you have a manometer hooked up where you can check your draft? Last year I was in the same boat as you I got one and I was overdrafting so I installed a BD and set it to .04 now when it’s satisfied my fire almost completely dies out to this.

 

[brenndatomu]

So I joined the Heat Commander club and got her fired for the first time yesterday.

Still trying to find out some operational specs though. After loading on hot coals and pressing the button how long until it starts dialing back the primary air? I heard the grate air close, but it's been 18 min and the primary is still fully open. Just making sure I have proper functionality. I know it's all temp based, but I feel I would have dialed the air back quite a while ago. What has everyone else's experience been on a startup?

Thermostat is satisfied, button is blinking green meaning energy saving mode.

The pic is 18 minutes in, fire is good and hot. I look in the back and it seems the air is still wide open. That is the primary air I circled in the second pic right? Sorry it was taken through the grate, not the best pic

Edit: so upon further looking is that middle always open and there is a shutter on each side of the middle? I wish that back panel came off easier so I could investigate, but I would have to remove my flue to take a screw out.


View attachment 306719 View attachment 306722

Definitely verify your draft, then read through this thread, it seems to me there have been several people that had similar issues at first...various causes.

 

[Gbawol42]

Definitely verify your draft, then read through this thread, it seems to me there have been several people that had similar issues at first...various causes.

I hooked my old manometer up and I'm hovering around .05-.06. Funny though when reading through the manual they really push the upper end at .06 unless you have "exceptionally" dry wood.

I always thought my Heatmax burned way to fast at .06 so I always kept it at the .04-.05 range.

I could try backing it down to .04 I suppose, an easy and quick thing to try. I reload in about 4 hours so I'll try then and see if that is the culprit.

 

[trx250r87]

It's interesting to watch the draft change when using a manometer, from the start of a fire all the way through when thermostat is satisfied. If you were to set draft using a manual key damper at -.06", light the fire and walk away, draft can go up quite a bit as everything heats up and dampers go from fully open to mostly closed. Then, when you are left with only hot coals the draft will die back down. Here is what the HC manual states....

7.6 Draft Calibration
The draft: The measurement is taken in the exhaust pipe 18" (457 mm) above the furnace's
flue collar with a tube and a pressure gauge (manometer).
- Poor: -0.03" W.C. (7.5 Pa) and under: ignition problems, risk of smoke spillage, low
performance of heat exchangers.
- Ideal: from -0.04" to -0.06" W.C. (10 to 15 Pa): to obtain the optimum performance of
the furnace.
o A barometric draft control is not required.
- Excessive: -0.08" W.C. (20 Pa): WARNING
This leads to premature wear of the furnace, a situation that is not covered by warranty.
o A draft greater than -0.08" W.C. (20 Pa) leads to uncontrollable fire even if the air
control is in closed position.
o The self-regulating furnace control system reduces the risk of excessive draft. If
necessary, a barometric control must be installed to control excessive draft. It
must be adjusted to limit the maximum draft to -0.06 in W.C. (15 Pa).

 

[NSGUY]

So I joined the Heat Commander club and got her fired for the first time yesterday.

Still trying to find out some operational specs though. After loading on hot coals and pressing the button how long until it starts dialing back the primary air? I heard the grate air close, but it's been 18 min and the primary is still fully open. Just making sure I have proper functionality. I know it's all temp based, but I feel I would have dialed the air back quite a while ago. What has everyone else's experience been on a startup?

Thermostat is satisfied, button is blinking green meaning energy saving mode.

The pic is 18 minutes in, fire is good and hot. I look in the back and it seems the air is still wide open. That is the primary air I circled in the second pic right? Sorry it was taken through the grate, not the best pic

Edit: so upon further looking is that middle always open and there is a shutter on each side of the middle? I wish that back panel came off easier so I could investigate, but I would have to remove my flue to take a screw out.


View attachment 306719 View attachment 306722

Welcome to the commander club lol, I noticed that same thing you did about the dampener and closing, the biggest thing I see with the furnace is consistency, Now at first I was drafting a bit to much .07 to .08 now that I got that back to .05 it overall runs much better. but a couple months ago when I first starting using it I noticed the blower would kick in before my kindling was even half burnt i'm talking within 3-4 minutes of lighting it, and before any of the dampeners closed or did anything.

but I could notice it changing slowly over time, now I have to have a good fire going for about 10 minutes anyhow, sometimes longer before the blower kicks in, sometimes the dampeners will adjust before the blower kicks in sometimes they don't.

sometimes the furnace just seems to be running prefect, and then other times I really questioning what I see, but that doesn't mean what I think is right lol

This morning for instance, house was cool 64f ( no fire for a couple days as its been warmer but cooled off during the night ) made a fire, filled the box pretty good, waited until the blower kicked in then went upstairs, can't remember if the dampeners adjusted or not. 2 hours later the house was at 72, , went down to check to see how the fire looked, it was none, just some coals, primary draft wide open, grate about half way, i believe I had a steady green light can't remember for sure now, pushed the button as i was going to put a piece a wood in , blower never even stopped running like it normally does, all it did was close both drafts. through a couple pieces of wood in a walked away lol

In saying that I really the furnace it puts out good heat, but I do question what is doing sometimes, more then what I'd like. but it maybe running as it should,

 

[NSGUY]

Question for you guys, with a 3/4 to full load how high of temps are you seeing in your fire box ? with the thermostat not satisfied, so its still in heat producing mode, I seeing 750 F+ regularly and the primary draft is 30% open anyhow. I assuming that normal ?

 

[brenndatomu]

I seeing 750 F+ regularly

How are you getting that reading?

 

[trx250r87]

Question for you guys, with a 3/4 to full load how high of temps are you seeing in your fire box ? with the thermostat not satisfied, so its still in heat producing mode, I seeing 750 F+ regularly and the primary draft is 30% open anyhow. I assuming that normal ?

How are you measuring temps inside fire box?

Eric

 

[Gbawol42]

Welcome to the commander club lol, I noticed that same thing you did about the dampener and closing, the biggest thing I see with the furnace is consistency, Now at first I was drafting a bit to much .07 to .08 now that I got that back to .05 it overall runs much better. but a couple months ago when I first starting using it I noticed the blower would kick in before my kindling was even half burnt i'm talking within 3-4 minutes of lighting it, and before any of the dampeners closed or did anything.

but I could notice it changing slowly over time, now I have to have a good fire going for about 10 minutes anyhow, sometimes longer before the blower kicks in, sometimes the dampeners will adjust before the blower kicks in sometimes they don't.

sometimes the furnace just seems to be running prefect, and then other times I really questioning what I see, but that doesn't mean what I think is right lol

This morning for instance, house was cool 64f ( no fire for a couple days as its been warmer but cooled off during the night ) made a fire, filled the box pretty good, waited until the blower kicked in then went upstairs, can't remember if the dampeners adjusted or not. 2 hours later the house was at 72, , went down to check to see how the fire looked, it was none, just some coals, primary draft wide open, grate about half way, i believe I had a steady green light can't remember for sure now, pushed the button as i was going to put a piece a wood in , blower never even stopped running like it normally does, all it did was close both drafts. through a couple pieces of wood in a walked away lol

In saying that I really the furnace it puts out good heat, but I do question what is doing sometimes, more then what I'd like. but it maybe running as it should,

Do you have a thermostat hooked up? There seems to be a completly different set of variables for the burn and blower if there is a call for heat.

At first I was really questioning if I would like the blower only coming on if the plenum was at 190 if there was no call for heat, but the last 2 days I kinda like it. Plus the blower on the HC seems to be a lot quieter than the Heatmax. It's such a change though as I am used to the blower coming on and not turning off for 8 hours with the Heatmax.

 

[Gbawol42]

The draft: The measurement is taken in the exhaust pipe 18" (457 mm) above the furnace's
flue collar with a tube and a pressure gauge (manometer).

I'll be honest I have always had my tube right in the tee behind the outlet of the furnace. If I went up 18 inches I would be above my barometer.

Would moving this be a huge difference?

 

[brenndatomu]

Would moving this be a huge difference?

No

 

[trx250r87]

Mine is a out 6" back from the flue collar, then about another 6" to manual damper, both in horizontal section.

If you were to put the manometer above your barometer I think your measurements would be way off.

Eric

 

[NSGUY]

How are you getting that reading?

With a lazer gun, not saying 100% accurate.

 

[NSGUY]

Do you have a thermostat hooked up? There seems to be a completly different set of variables for the burn and blower if there is a call for heat.

At first I was really questioning if I would like the blower only coming on if the plenum was at 190 if there was no call for heat, but the last 2 days I kinda like it. Plus the blower on the HC seems to be a lot quieter than the Heatmax. It's such a change though as I am used to the blower coming on and not turning off for 8 hours with the Heatmax.

Yes running a thermostat,

and I agree I like the way the blower is setup, how it turns on and off when at temp. with my old newmac the blower upstairs was kinda loud, you could easily hear it running, I can't even hear the HC running. I love that.

 

[brenndatomu]

With a lazer gun, not saying 100% accurate.

Certainly not...IR gun is really only accurate on a smooth flat black surface.

 

[Gbawol42]

I do miss all my temp read outs. I don't have temp controller anymore so I can't see my internal flue temp. Can't see my plenum temp because the HC doesn't have the digital readout anymore.

I also wish I could tap into the firebox coupler so I could monitor the firebox temp.

I just like seeing exactly how my furnace is running.

 

[sloeffle]

I had a thermocouple hooked to a cheap Chinese PID controller to view my flue temps. A Inkbirk or another brand of BBQ thermometer could be used to view it via Bluetooth monitor. Some brands even connect to the cloud so you can view it when you aren’t home.

One probe to view flu temps, another to view plenum temps.

 

[Gbawol42]

So dialed the draft down to .04 looks like it did the trick. I can see the secondary air is just about closed and the fire looks like I feel it should, this is about 2 hours in.

 

[Rockstar1346]

So dialed the draft down to .04 looks like it did the trick. I can see the secondary air is just about closed and the fire looks like I feel it should, this is about 2 hours in.

That looks way better!

 

[trx250r87]

FYI the secondary air does not close, it's a fixed opening at the rear center.

Eric