New guy with lots of questions. JOTUL OSLO 500 And if Im doing it right?

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RUMBLON

New Member
Nov 26, 2016
24
Cambridge Idaho
This room is attached to a mudroom that's approx 16x10, which is attached to a bedroom thats another 16x24. So basically a 1000 sq ft cabin thats long and skinny.

My stove is a Jotul Oslo 500 that I bought from Nevada to here as funds were low. I am using this stove which was in a 2300 sq ft home.

I bought new pipe, (single wall) that exits the stove as pictures, goes up 36 or so inches, hits two 45s to move the pipe inwards so as to avoid a rafter then goes up into the vaulted ceiling roof box and exits the metal roof.

It the transitions into an 8 inch pipe and approx 4 fr of pipe and the end cap.


This is my third season in this cabin ad I have always had a difficult time getting a proper draft and had smoke entering inside my cabin and always developing too much creosote.

I am not quite sure why this is so and am guessing its because the stove is so large thats its typically turned down or it would heat us right out of this room as its too hot.

However in my research it may also be attributed to the fact that I MAY not have enough top pipe exiting the roof to create the proper flow.

I should also mention that the stove sits on a stone hearth hats roughly 15 tall, so its kinda high.

I am going to attempt to attach some pics.

If I need for exterior piping, then I think I can add two feet before I have to add lots of support. If my stove is too big then I can search for a smaller stove as I will use this one in a home build that I hope to start this spring out of pocket, which will involve a hole new set of questions and advise and the hearth will make this look small. THAT STOVE WILL BE INSTALLED BY A PRO as the roof will be 25 or so feet tall.

ALSO, I have removed the pipe for cleaning once before and had to replace on of the elbows is it was too corroded. When I had the pipe removed I cleaned out what I could get too on the Jotul. I cant seem to find any info from Jotul on how to properly clean ut the stove near the pipe entrance as this could also be an issue is there are avenues for issue deeper inside the stove.

HEARTH / INTERIOR PIPING.

IMG_6330.jpg
OLD PIC OF CABIN PRIOR TO ADDITION BUILD SHOWS HEIGHT OF PIPE FROM THE SIDE

photo%203%202.jpg

PIPE HEIGHT FROM EDGE FRONT,

IMG_5944.jpg

On a side note, this hearth is the place to hang for three weenie dogs who love its warmth.

IMG_6331.jpg


IMG_6718.jpg
 
Last edited:

RUMBLON

New Member
Nov 26, 2016
24
Cambridge Idaho
This room is attached to a mudroom that's approx 16x10, which is attached to a bedroom thats another 16x24. So basically a 1000 sq ft cabin thats long and skinny.

My stove is a Jotul Oslo 500 that I bought from Nevada to here as funds were low. I am using this stove which was in a 2300 sq ft home.

I bought new pipe, (single wall) that exits the stove as pictures, goes up 36 or so inches, hits two 45s to move the pipe inwards so as to avoid a rafter then goes up into the vaulted ceiling roof box and exits the metal roof.

It the transitions into an 8 inch pipe and approx 4 fr of pipe and the end cap.


This is my third season in this cabin ad I have always had a difficult time getting a proper draft and had smoke entering inside my cabin and always developing too much creosote.

I am not quite sure why this is so and am guessing its because the stove is so large thats its typically turned down or it would heat us right out of this room as its too hot.

However in my research it may also be attributed to the fact that I MAY not have enough top pipe exiting the roof to create the proper flow.

I should also mention that the stove sits on a stone hearth hats roughly 15 tall, so its kinda high.

I am going to attempt to attach some pics.

If I need for exterior piping, then I think I can add two feet before I have to add lots of support. If my stove is too big then I can search for a smaller stove as I will use this one in a home build that I hope to start this spring out of pocket, which will involve a hole new set of questions and advise and the hearth will make this look small. THAT STOVE WILL BE INSTALLED BY A PRO as the roof will be 25 or so feet tall.

ALSO, I have removed the pipe for cleaning once before and had to replace on of the elbows is it was too corroded. When I had the pipe removed I cleaned out what I could get too on the Jotul. I cant seem to find any info from Jotul on how to properly clean ut the stove near the pipe entrance as this could also be an issue is there are avenues for issue deeper inside the stove.

HEARTH / INTERIOR PIPING.

View attachment 188903
OLD PIC OF CABIN PRIOR TO ADDITION BUILD SHOWS HEIGHT OF PIPE FROM THE SIDE

View attachment 188904

PIPE HEIGHT FROM EDGE FRONT,

View attachment 188905

On a side note, this hearth is the place to hang for three weenie dogs who love its warmth.

View attachment 188906

Here is a little bigger pic of my building showing the height of the stove pipe.
IMG_6718.jpg
IMG_6719.jpg
 
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begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
94,486
South Puget Sound, WA
Chimney looks too short. The Oslo should have at least 16 ft of 6" flue to perform well. Switching to 8" chimney may be reducing draft strength further.

Also, does the current installation pass the 10-3-2 rule?
10-3-2 rule.JPG
 

firefighterjake

Minister of Fire
Jul 22, 2008
19,593
Unity/Bangor, Maine
Random thoughts . . .

The short chimney length coupled with the elbows and eight inch chimney (a triple play so to speak) are your most likely culprits for the drafting issue . . . or rather lack thereof.

The Oslo is a fine woodstove, but it sounds like it is over-sized for your current needs. You may still get by with it however (especially if you are planning on installing it in a larger home) by using smaller loads of wood and not reloading as quickly or as often -- the flip side of this being you may do a fire to warm up the stove and then have to let it radiate off the heat and not reload it or reload it when the coals are quite small (so you may end up not being able to do a good overnight fire or will get quite good at doing restarts.)

Cleaning the Oslo above the baffle . . . you can remove the oval center plate by unscrewing the two bolts that hold the clips in place . . . or simply loosening them enough to allow you to move the clips out of the way, at which point you can remove the oval center plate. This will give you pretty good access to the throat where the exhaust exits the stove and enters the flue. While I still think your drafting issues are related to the short length, 8 inch pipe and elbows if there is a large build up of fly ash above the baffle and insulation blanket partially blocking the exit (and it can build up there) this would affect your draft as well. I try to clean this area annually by carefully using a shop vac (just be careful around the insulation blanket).
 
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begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
94,486
South Puget Sound, WA
My guess is no it does not pass that rule. It's 4 feet out of the roof.

How high can I go before it needs additional support?

Thx
A roof brace is required at every 5 ft above the point of exit from the roof.
 
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