New homeowner needs advice

[Fiziksgeek]

New pics and a new quote for repair.

Being a beautiful 60 degree day out, I was able to get home early to meet another mason to get a quote. I also took the opportunity to get some new pics. I forgot I had the video camera with a big zoom on it...duh.

You can see about 9 courses down from the top, there is a line of calking which extends all the way around the chimney. This particular mason recommends removing all the brick down to 1-2 courses below that level and building it back up with new brick and mortar and putting a new crown on it of course. He quoted me $1200 for that job. Half the price of the other guy for more work I think. I asked him how they do the crown, do they just build up a hump of cement, do they use a precast, or do they build a form and pour cement. He said just a mound of cement with a generous slope away from the flue. I asked about the transition from the crown to the flue, do they just cement right up to it or is there a gap which gets sealed with high temp calking or something. He responded cement right up to the flue. Whats the right way to build up a crown?


The other guy did not recommend rebuilding from that point up. Just the crown and the bluestone cap for $2500.

Kinda reminds me of tree guys. I had 2 companies in for a quote last year, one guy wanted $2200 just to drop the trees and leave clean up to me. The other guy quoted me $950 to drop the trees +$150 to chip all brush over 4". Is there really just that much difference in overhead for various companies?

 

[Eaglecraft]

New pics and a new quote for repair.

Being a beautiful 60 degree day out, I was able to get home early to meet another mason to get a quote. I also took the opportunity to get some new pics. I forgot I had the video camera with a big zoom on it...duh.

You can see about 9 courses down from the top, there is a line of calking which extends all the way around the chimney. This particular mason recommends removing all the brick down to 1-2 courses below that level and building it back up with new brick and mortar and putting a new crown on it of course. He quoted me $1200 for that job. Half the price of the other guy for more work I think. I asked him how they do the crown, do they just build up a hump of cement, do they use a precast, or do they build a form and pour cement. He said just a mound of cement with a generous slope away from the flue. I asked about the transition from the crown to the flue, do they just cement right up to it or is there a gap which gets sealed with high temp calking or something. He responded cement right up to the flue. Whats the right way to build up a crown?


The other guy did not recommend rebuilding from that point up. Just the crown and the bluestone cap for $2500.

Kinda reminds me of tree guys. I had 2 companies in for a quote last year, one guy wanted $2200 just to drop the trees and leave clean up to me. The other guy quoted me $950 to drop the trees +$150 to chip all brush over 4". Is there really just that much difference in overhead for various companies?

Fiziksgeek:

I can't recall where I read it, it may have been in a general building code manual, or specific requirement for chimney/crown installations, but there is a requirement for an elasomeric joint between the crown cement and the tera-cotta flue liner. There should be a 1/4 to 3/8 inch joint between the cement and the terra-cota flue that is filled with backer rod followed by polyurethane sealant. Use the kind of sealant that is used for concrete joints such as SONOLASTIC Ultra or SONOLASTIC SL-1. You could require your contractor to prepare the joint this way. After all, you are paying the bill. If you need it, I can track down the requirement, with some difficulty. My house is a bit upset presently as I am repairing some cracks in my plaster walls. How's your skim coating skills? Better than mine, I trust.

The difference in quoted price may have nothing to do with actual costs - like overhead. Bid price difference may be due to inability to bid a job correctly, or because the contractor really doesn't want the job, or greed. Three years ago I wanted a really big tree on our property taken down - too big for me and my saw. The high bid was $2,500. I paid the winning contractor $700 to take the tree down, cart it off and clean up the mess. I called the $2,500 bidder and asked him why his bid was so much higher than $700. His reply, "When we get busy, we charge more."

Then there was the example of the electrical panel replacement. I had one contractor come out and bid $14,000 for electrical upgrades that cost $5,400. Why the difference? He was making so much money (when the construction industry was booming in 2005/2006) that he really didn't want the job.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

yeah, I specifically asked this guy about how they separate the hot flue liner from the concrete of the crown. He said the flue is clay, it doesn't expand...that response scared me a bit....he's clearly wrong. My guess is they don't want to do it, because they would have to wait for the concrete to dry and then come back to lay a silicone bead, wasting a couple hours or so.

Though I do wonder, if I install a 6" liner in the 12x12 flu and insulate it, how hot would the flu actually get? He's wrong about the liner not expanding when it gets hot, but in my case, it actually may not get hot, so its a mute point...maybe?

 

[Eaglecraft]

yeah, I specifically asked this guy about how they separate the hot flue liner from the concrete of the crown. He said the flue is clay, it doesn't expand...that response scared me a bit....he's clearly wrong.

Though I do wonder, if I install a 6" liner in the 12x12 flu and insulate it, how hot would the flu actually get? He's wrong about the liner not expanding when it gets hot, but in my case, it actually may not get hot, so its a mute point...maybe?

Fiziksgeek:

When your stove is in use, I doubt that the terra-cotta flue will get hot at all - probably not even warm since the flue has an insulated liner that actually exhausts the stove. The elasomeric joint is to provide for expansion/contraction of the terra-cotta flue that is contact with the concrete crown wash, while preventing water from working its way down that joint. So I think a joint that is caulked is a good idea even though the joint itself will not get hot. Water intrusion causes many a problem. A concrete joint against terra-cotta will not seal by itself. As "Dr. D." stated, "You have only one opportunity to do it right the first time."

Looks like you've found an outfit that can do the work...

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Fiziksgeek:

When your stove is in use, I doubt that the terra-cotta flue will get hot at all - probably not even warm since the flue has an insulated liner that actually exhausts the stove. The elasomeric joint is to provide for expansion/contraction of the terra-cotta flue that is contact with the concrete crown wash, while preventing water from working its way down that joint. So I think a joint that is caulked is a good idea even though the joint itself will not get hot. Water intrusion causes many a problem. A concrete joint against terra-cotta will not seal by itself. As "Dr. D." stated, "You have only one opportunity to do it right the first time."

Looks like you've found an outfit that can do the work...

Are you suggesting that they can cement up to the flue and the put a bead of calk around the top edge of the joint? Or do they need to leave a small gap between the two and then calk?

 

[Eaglecraft]

Fiziksgeek:

When your stove is in use, I doubt that the terra-cotta flue will get hot at all - probably not even warm since the flue has an insulated liner that actually exhausts the stove. The elasomeric joint is to provide for expansion/contraction of the terra-cotta flue that is contact with the concrete crown wash, while preventing water from working its way down that joint. So I think a joint that is caulked is a good idea even though the joint itself will not get hot. Water intrusion causes many a problem. A concrete joint against terra-cotta will not seal by itself. As "Dr. D." stated, "You have only one opportunity to do it right the first time."

Looks like you've found an outfit that can do the work...

Are you suggesting that they can cement up to the flue and the put a bead of calk around the top edge of the joint? Or do they need to leave a small gap between the two and then calk?

Fiziksgeek:

Clarification:

No, not exactly. The idea to to create a sealed expansion joint that you often see in concrete walkways, driveways, and garage floors. Your contractor should leave a small space, a joint if you will, 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch wide around the terra-cotta flue and the crown-wash concrete. This open space is filled first by placing backer rod in the opening and then filling the remaining joint - the space that remains - with SONOLASTIC SL-1. So you should wind up with a bead of sealant about 3/8 by 3/8 of an inch. The backer rod is used so that the sealant only adheres on two sides - not three. That is, the sealant will not adhere to the backer rod even though you "squirt" the sealant right on top of it. This a property of backer rod. One side of the sealant adheres to the terra-cotta, the other side adheres to the concrete. This is done so that the sealant can stretch or compress with temperature changes, while excluding water all the while doing so. This could not happen if the sealant adheres at three points. I think most are not aware of this feature of sealant used with backer rod.

The space, or joint needed to provide for the sealant can be created by wrapping the one flue tile that will extend past the crown wash with rope, tar paper, foam rubber, etc. Use anything that will establish the joint and can be pulled out after, or while the concrete is curing.

One thing I didn't mention, and I recommend it's use, is "Chimney Saver". See the link: http://www.chimneysaver.com/ProductData/crowncoat.pdf. I used it on my crown-wash repair and it has lasted 8 years. It dries to a "rubbery-like" texture.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Fiziksgeek:

Clarification:

No, not exactly. The idea to to create a sealed expansion joint that you often see in concrete walkways, driveways, and garage floors. Your contractor should leave a small space, a joint if you will, 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch wide around the terra-cotta flue and the crown-wash concrete. This open space is filled first by placing backer rod in the opening and then filling the remaining joint - the space that remains - with SONOLASTIC SL-1. So you should wind up with a bead of sealant about 3/8 by 3/8 of an inch. The backer rod is used so that the sealant only adheres on two sides - not three. That is, the sealant will not adhere to the backer rod even though you "squirt" the sealant right on top of it. This a property of backer rod. One side of the sealant adheres to the terra-cotta, the other side adheres to the concrete. This is done so that the sealant can stretch or compress with temperature changes, while excluding water all the while doing so. This could not happen if the sealant adheres at three points. I think most are not aware of this feature of sealant used with backer rod.

The space, or joint needed to provide for the sealant can be created by wrapping the one flue tile that will extend past the crown wash with rope, tar paper, foam rubber, etc. Use anything that will establish the joint and can be pulled out after, or while the concrete is curing.

One thing I didn't mention, and I recommend it's use, is "Chimney Saver". See the link: http://www.chimneysaver.com/ProductData/crowncoat.pdf. I used it on my crown-wash repair and it has lasted 8 years. It dries to a "rubbery-like" texture.

Thanks, That's what I thought you were recommending. I guess my only worry about the last mason is that he said that is not their normal process, its unnecessary is his opinion. So I would be asking him to do something he normally doesn't do, and therefor likely has little or no experience doing.

I like the chimney saver product you mentioned. It looks as if it would patch small problems, but it appeals more to me as a second layer of protection. If going to the expense of having the chimney rebuilt/repaired, why not spend a few more dollars and protect it the best way possible...

 

[Eaglecraft]

Fiziksgeek:

Clarification:

No, not exactly. The idea to to create a sealed expansion joint that you often see in concrete walkways, driveways, and garage floors. Your contractor should leave a small space, a joint if you will, 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch wide around the terra-cotta flue and the crown-wash concrete. This open space is filled first by placing backer rod in the opening and then filling the remaining joint - the space that remains - with SONOLASTIC SL-1. So you should wind up with a bead of sealant about 3/8 by 3/8 of an inch. The backer rod is used so that the sealant only adheres on two sides - not three. That is, the sealant will not adhere to the backer rod even though you "squirt" the sealant right on top of it. This a property of backer rod. One side of the sealant adheres to the terra-cotta, the other side adheres to the concrete. This is done so that the sealant can stretch or compress with temperature changes, while excluding water all the while doing so. This could not happen if the sealant adheres at three points. I think most are not aware of this feature of sealant used with backer rod.

The space, or joint needed to provide for the sealant can be created by wrapping the one flue tile that will extend past the crown wash with rope, tar paper, foam rubber, etc. Use anything that will establish the joint and can be pulled out after, or while the concrete is curing.

One thing I didn't mention, and I recommend it's use, is "Chimney Saver". See the link: http://www.chimneysaver.com/ProductData/crowncoat.pdf. I used it on my crown-wash repair and it has lasted 8 years. It dries to a "rubbery-like" texture.

Thanks, That's what I thought you were recommending. I guess my only worry about the last mason is that he said that is not their normal process, its unnecessary is his opinion. So I would be asking him to do something he normally doesn't do, and therefor likely has little or no experience doing.

I like the chimney saver product you mentioned. It looks as if it would patch small problems, but it appeals more to me as a second layer of protection. If going to the expense of having the chimney rebuilt/repaired, why not spend a few more dollars and protect it the best way possible...

Fiziksgeek:

I understand exactly what you are referring to about your contractor saying the expansion joint is "unnecessary". A typical response from an "old-timer" (or a new-timer for that matter): "I've been doing it this way for 20 (or 30 years - you fill in the blank) and I've never seen a need to do that." It's a common response when confronted with a new idea, a new product, or a new building process. That's why building officials have a hard time enforcing new building code requirements, and the resistant attitude is the reason why, sometimes, buildings fall down - and sometimes they do. This prevailing attitude is why this summer my wife and I built a 20X30 foot utility building ourselves. We did the framing ourselves because we didn't want to argue with contractors about using engineered wood, putting roof trusses on 16 inch centers, on putting double studs every 4 feet, and exceeding building code requirements for critical structural components. The building is built to "livable space" code requirements, not "outbuilding" requirements even though it's only a utility building. But who knows what we may wish to use the structure for in the future.

By the way, "Chimney Saver" is an excellent product. It goes on the crown-wash very easyily - just use a paint brush - and it forms a tough rubber-like coating to prevent water intrusion. It's not required, but it's a good idea. Ask yourself why the crown-wash failed in the first place. The product is fairly expensive, however.

Good luck with you project.

 

[Eaglecraft]

Fiziksgeek:

I understand exactly what you are referring to about your contractor saying the expansion joint is "unnecessary". A typical response from an "old-timer" (or a new-timer for that matter): "I've been doing it this way for 20 (or 30 years - you fill in the blank) and I've never seen a need to do that." It's a common response when confronted with a new idea, a new product, or a new building process. That's why building officials have a hard time enforcing new building code requirements, and the resistant attitude is the reason why, sometimes, buildings fall down - and sometimes they do. This prevailing attitude is why this summer my wife and I built a 20X30 foot utility building ourselves. We did the framing ourselves because we didn't want to argue with contractors about using engineered wood, putting roof trusses on 16 inch centers, on putting double studs every 4 feet, and exceeding building code requirements for critical structural components. The building is built to "livable space" code requirements, not "outbuilding" requirements even though it's only a utility building. But who knows what we may wish to use the structure for in the future.

By the way, "Chimney Saver" is an excellent product. It goes on the crown-wash very easyily - just use a paint brush - and it forms a tough rubber-like coating to prevent water intrusion. It's not required, but it's a good idea. Ask yourself why the crown-wash failed in the first place. The product is fairly expensive, however.

Good luck with you project.

Fiziksgeek:

Correction:

I got to thinking about what I had stated in my previous posts. I erred in identifying the chimney crown sealing product that I used. What I actually used was Chimney Saver CrownSeal. See the video: http://www.fireplaceandchimneySUPPLY.com/CrownSeal-Flexible-Waterproof-Coating-p/ss_csl.htm. The product has the consistency of "All Purpose Joint Compound." I put it on the crown using a small trowel and a brush as per the video. As you can see, it's pretty expensive, but it works like a champ. Sorry for my error.

 

[Eaglecraft]

Took some time off sanding my skim coated walls to track down the requirements for masonry chimneys, and here they are:

From The International Residential Code, for One and Two-Family Dwellings, 2009, Chapter 10, Chimneys and Fireplaces, page 450, R1003.11 Flue Lining Material: Masonry Chimneys shall be lined… and then R1003.11.1 Residential-type appliances (general). Flue lining systems shall comply with one (the other requirements don't apply to your case) of the following:

1. Clay flue lining complying with the requirements of ASTM C315, which states

5. Chimney Construction:

5.5 Flue liners shall be surrounded by masonry on all sides but shall not be bonded to the surrounding masonry. The flue liner shall contact the chimney wall only as necessary for support and alignment in order to permit the flue liner, which when filled with hot gases and smoke to expand and contract freely. The separation of the flue liner from the surrounding concrete or masonry shall not exceed the wall thickness of the flue liner. Where Seismic Reinforcing requires the space between the flue liner and the chimney wall to be grouted solid the flue shall be wrapped with ceramic fiber paper capable of withstanding temperatures of 2100 deg. F to prevent the flue liner from bonding to the chimney walls.

and then the requirements for

8. Chimney Caps

8.1 All masonry chimneys shall have a chimney cap that slopes a minimum 10 degrees downward from the flue liner to the edge of the chimney cap (see Fig. 1).

8.2 Chimney caps shall overhang the chimney wall by a minimum of 2 in. (51 50 mm)

8.3 Chimney caps are of the following types and construction:
8.3.1 Precast or cast-in-place concrete caps shall be a minimum of 2 in (51 50 mm) in thickness, shall have a drip slot on the underside at least 1-1/2 in. (38 mm) away from the chimney wall and shall be reinforced with a minimum of 1/2 in. (13 mm) mesh galvanized hardware cloth located halfway into the filled form.
8.3.2 Metal chimney caps must lap down the chimney wall at least 4 in. (102 100 mm) and a non combustible resilient sealant shall be used between the metal cap and the flue liner and between the base of the metal cap and the chimney.
8.3.3 Stone caps shall be a minimum of 2 in (51 50 mm) in thickness and shall have a drip slot on the underside at least 1-1/2 in. (38 mm) away from the chimney wall.

8.4 Chimney caps shall be separated from the flue lining by a bond break, and this separation shall be sealed with a noncombustible resilient sealant to prevent water entering the chimney. This is a maintenance joint and should be checked and renewed as needed (see Fig 1).

8.5 Clay flue linings shall extend above the chimney cap by not more than 4 in. (102 100 mm).

The bottom line is that yes, a sealant joint is required by the IRC Building Code for the flue tile/concrete crown wash joint.



 

[Fiziksgeek]

Thanks for the info!

If I am reading that correctly, even if leaving the appropriate expansion gap between the flue and crown, it still must overhang the chimney wall by 2" minimum. A lot of what I see out there is simply piling motor on top of the chimney and giving it some slope, it doesn't overhang at all....

 

[Eaglecraft]

Thanks for the info!

If I am reading that correctly, even if leaving the appropriate expansion gap between the flue and crown, it still must overhang the chimney wall by 2" minimum. A lot of what I see out there is simply piling motor on top of the chimney and giving it some slope, it doesn't overhang at all....

Fiziksgeek:

The concrete crown-wash should overhang the chimney by at least 2 inches (I think when I repaired my crown-wash, I made my over-hang 5 or 6 inches all the way around), and have a drip edge. The drip edge can be made by cutting, forming, or notching a grove all the way around the base of overhanging chimney crown. The purpose of the drip edge and the concrete overhang is to keep water off the masonry chimney. Water is tough on mortared joints.

I'm not surprised that you don't see the overhang on crown-washes often. The folks that put these up don't know what they don't know. The need for an overhang is why you use a form to pour the concrete or you use a precast crown-wash and then build that up the crown wash to the required 10 degree slope.

Oh well, back to sanding and "mudding."

 

[rwhite]

Maybe I don't have as much attention to detail as others (and I'm not a mason) but that chimney don't look that bad. If it was a bad crown, and it was mine, I'd look into getting a copper cap made to cover the whole thing and let the chimney alone. Just an idea and maybe I overlooked something.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Clearly from the ground, you can't see a crown, at least not one built by the rules volemister posted above. I would guess it was just some concrete sloping away, but not built up significantly, and no overhang obviously. I do like the idea of a copper cap to cover everything....I am also not so sure about doing brick work in the winter months...

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Just spent a couple hours with the Chimney Doctor of CT. Way more competent that the previous sweep or masons. It was a 2 man crew, one more experienced guy and one younger guy. First thing they did was went up to the roof. They confirmed a badly cracked crown. Looks like it was very think and not well sloped to begin with. The flashing was in good shape, no need to redo unless I saw water in the attic, which I have not seen. They said there were several cracked flu tiles, maybe a sign of a previous chimney fire, which wouldn't surprise me. Nothing that needed replacing assuming I was going to install a liner. They commented on the poor quality of the mason who built both of the chimneys on the house, the smoke chamber was not parged over and made smooth, the brick was poorly stacked and left lots of nooks and crannies for soot and creosote to build up in. Again, not an issue assuming we install a liner. The damper was actually up in the smoke chamber, looks like the bolt was cut, and the damper was just flipped up and now covered with a thick layer of creosote, as well as the damper handle...They pulled out almost 2 buckets full of creosote, soot, and ash....and a dead frog...? Guessing the marsh hawk which has been seen hanging around my koi pond dropped his meal down there...Anyway...no need for a deglazing, just a standard charge for a cleaning.

I asked about the sealed crack which appears to run all the way around the chimney. He said it looks like there is not expansion joint between the flue liner and the outer brick of the chimney, atleast not up at the top. Expansion of the flue likely cause the crack, seeing that it was above the roof line, and calked, its probably ok, messy, but not an issue. He saw no need to rebuild the chimney from that point up.

I then asked about how they do a crown. He said 2 ways, first the simple crown wash, where you build up concrete on top with a simple slope, and second, which is the better way, is to form up and pour concrete with a minimum 2" overhang. Kinds like installing a 10 year roof vs a 30 year roof, a littl emore work up front and it will last loner. Any more surface area up there and he would only recommend a poured crown. In either case, they always leave an expansion joint and use a high temperature caulk to seal it. They are going to quote me both ways. The poured crown in more expensive obviously because they have to come back a second day. But if I have them install a liner too, they would do that on the second day, and there would be a break on the costs.

They are recommended and will quote me an stainless liner, insulted because its an exterior chimney and a block off plate. They sell Napoleon stoves, which I think my wife will say no to, for no other reason than aesthetics, but we'll see what the price it like.

So I am pretty happy right now. Based on what I have read, these guys said all the right things...Unlike the previous 3 people..!

 

[mfglickman]

Hey there, I am near you (Litchfield) and been going through something similar. Our chimney is the center chimney in a 1758 cape - and it looked OK when we bought the house then with the first real rain we discovered the flashing was shot and water leaked down the outside of the bricks. Then we had the flashing replaced and when it rained, water still came in but only down the inside of the chimney. Good times.

One mason/sweep said the entire chimney needed rebuilding from the roofline up - total cost $6K - $7K. Another company said they could make the water stop by grinding out and repointing a bunch of the mortar then applying a 10 year sealant, then sealing the unused flues across the top, and finally adding a new metal cap. Total cost $2300. We went with the second quote and no water has entered down the chimney since.

Costs here are crazy and there are as many opinions on what needs doing as there are trees in the woods....

Good luck!

P.S. I agree with the others that the dirty chimney is what you smell. Especially if it's wet - ick.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Litchfield is a beautiful area, I've been up to White Flower Farms a couple times.

Just had the 4th evaluation, this time by Paul's masonry (contracted by Dean's). His opinion was that the cracks in the crown's aren't that bad and do not warrant complete replacement, but simply using a seal coat product on them such as the one mentioned above, and maybe a bigger cap to help shed the water further away. Should cost $125 for the sealing. He also believed the caulked going going around the chimney is from am old crack, messy, but adequate, and the flashing also looks fine.

So is this just a difference of opinion, replace vs. seal between the two companies today? Or is the first place looking for extra work? I'll see what the quotes look like when they come in...! If its reasonable, is it better to replace a cracked crown? Is sealing just delaying the inevitable..?

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Did I mention the oil guy came yesterday. Delivered 398 gallons, last came in August. Hope next year to cut that down by 100 gallons or more...

 

[mfglickman]

Litchfield is a beautiful area, I've been up to White Flower Farms a couple times.

Just had the 4th evaluation, this time by Paul's masonry (contracted by Dean's). His opinion was that the cracks in the crown's aren't that bad and do not warrant complete replacement, but simply using a seal coat product on them such as the one mentioned above, and maybe a bigger cap to help shed the water further away. Should cost $125 for the sealing. He also believed the caulked going going around the chimney is from am old crack, messy, but adequate, and the flashing also looks fine.

So is this just a difference of opinion, replace vs. seal between the two companies today? Or is the first place looking for extra work? I'll see what the quotes look like when they come in...! If its reasonable, is it better to replace a cracked crown? Is sealing just delaying the inevitable..?

The sealing that the company did on my chimney has a 10 year guarantee. So if it fails, they will replace it. Inevitable? Maybe but I saved myself 10 years with a $200 or so investment - since we just bought this house and have lots of other expenses, this was worth it to me!

We also replaced the stone cap with a metal one as the stone was cracked and needing replacement. The stone looked nicer but the metal will do (IMO) a better job keeping the elements out as it's bigger, has a bit of an overhang and there's mesh all the way around. I'm sure it's historically wrong but doing so kept the chimney itself intact, so...what can ya do?

Good luck with your decisions!

ETA 398 gallons since August does not sound so bad to me...we've used nearly 300 since mid-November keeping the house at around 60...can't wait to get the wood stove installed!

 

[Fiziksgeek]

ETA 398 gallons since August does not sound so bad to me...we've used nearly 300 since mid-November keeping the house at around 60...can't wait to get the wood stove installed!

Well...there is a 227 year age difference between you house and mine...might have something to do with it!


I used ~900 gallons last year, on track for saving at least 100 gallons this year, maybe more if the weather stays warm, or if I can actually get a stove installed and start burning some wood. I have ~1/2 cord left over from the previous owner. Been sitting for the 18 months Ive been in the house and who knows how long before that...

 

[Fiziksgeek]

I got up to Blazing Hot Stoves in Oakville today with the wife to look at a Jotul insert and get their opinion on our situation.

I explained to them the draft issue in the basement. They believe it would be best to install a pellet stove down there, and run it near continuously in the heating season. That's the only way to keep the flu warm and the draft going up. When burning wood, if we let it die down, we could end up with the draft reversing on us, filling the house with smoke. If we could eliminate the down draft, then we could install what ever we want. Seems to make sense.

I think we are now leaning to installing a wood insert in the family room on the first floor and leaving the basement one unused, after we fix the water leak. The Jotul Rockland seemed to be a compromise between the elite 33 and the Clydesdale, so i think my wife and i both like it, but she might change her mind, we'll see....

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Just an update.

We are going to have the crown saver applied. Its only costing $125 per chimney and we'll have both done.

And we put down a deposit on a Jotul Rockland 550 in blue/black enamel which will go in the family room on the first floor! We ended up buying from Superior Hearth and Spa and they have a $99 installation special going on right now. Everywhere else was charging $650-750 for installation, since we decided on the other chimney, which is in the family room, single story with a vaulted ceiling, I was looking at a DIY to save the install fee, but for $99, I'll let them do it all...