New insert, and a few more questions

[zknowlto]

Hello all! You may remember me from this link a few weeks ago. In the end, we decided to go with the Regency I1200 because it was basically the only insert that would fit our fireplace as it exists currently. Now that we have the thing installed and I have a cord of relatively decent wood, I had a few more questions with operating an insert.

1) What kind of fireplace tools do I need to get? I'm assuming I don't need some of things I associate with open fireplaces, such as a poker, but may need some things specific to wood stoves. I'm under the impression that I need a brush, a coal rake, fire resistant gloves, and an ash can. Does this seem right? Is there something I'm totally missing?

2) I couldn't resist firing this up today. After getting some kindling established, I added a couple of splits. There seemed to be a good bit of coals at the bottom, but the wood itself seemed to be burning much more slowly than I expected and I had very little in the way of flames. Is this normal, is this because of the small firebox, or did I just build a lame fire? The unit seemed to get relatively hot, hot enough to kick on the auto-fan, but it didn't seem to be putting out as much heat as I expected.

3) I've seen a number of people install thermometers on their stoves or inserts, and would like to do the same. However, the manual that came with insert didn't mention anything about this. How does one go about installing a thermometer?

Again, my thanks to everyone for your past, and (hopefully) future advice. Without you help, I don't think I ever would have talked my wife into an insert. In case anyone is interested, here are a few pictures of the new installation:

 

[North of 60]

Glad to see you took the plunge. Congrats on the new heater. You were talking about not such a hot and fantastic fire.

A few questions for you. How warm out was it when ya fired it up? What type of liner did ya put in? Insulated or not? What is the height of your chimney? Did you have your draft control in the right position? How seasoned is seasoned when you talk about your wood? Im thinking that will be the culprit, if you have done your homework on the above. A thicker pair of leather gloves will surly make loading the stove more comfortable and safer. A metal bucket and ash scoop will come in handy, along with a rake or a simple poker.

As for thermometer, you can purchase a magnetic stove pipe one. Ignore the burn titles related to temp. Just go by the #s. By the looks of it , it would have to be a tiny one that could fit in the space @ the upper right or left just above the door. An infrared type thermometer may work out better for you.
N of 60

 

[velvetfoot]

A infrared thermometer 'gun' is useful.

 

[Todd]

You just built a small fire and the coal bed wasn't established yet. Wait til its a little cooler out then establish a good coalbed and fill the stove up, you will see a big difference in your stoves performance. There is also a short learning curve with a new stove, it may take some trial and error.

 

[Pagey]

1) What kind of fireplace tools do I need to get? I'm assuming I don't need some of things I associate with open fireplaces, such as a poker, but may need some things specific to wood stoves. I'm under the impression that I need a brush, a coal rake, fire resistant gloves, and an ash can. Does this seem right? Is there something I'm totally missing?

2) I couldn't resist firing this up today. After getting some kindling established, I added a couple of splits. There seemed to be a good bit of coals at the bottom, but the wood itself seemed to be burning much more slowly than I expected and I had very little in the way of flames. Is this normal, is this because of the small firebox, or did I just build a lame fire? The unit seemed to get relatively hot, hot enough to kick on the auto-fan, but it didn't seem to be putting out as much heat as I expected.

3) I've seen a number of people install thermometers on their stoves or inserts, and would like to do the same. However, the manual that came with insert didn't mention anything about this. How does one go about installing a thermometer?

Again, my thanks to everyone for your past, and (hopefully) future advice. Without you help, I don't think I ever would have talked my wife into an insert. In case anyone is interested, here are a few pictures of the new installation:

1. I have an ash pail (coal hod) and an ash shovel. That's about all I ever use as far as tools go. Many people like a "rake" like this: http://www.kschimney.com/store/scim/prod/811/d/lg_811.jpg for raking the coals to the front of the fire box for reloading. I also have a pair of thick, leather welding gloves that I use. They come much further up the forearm than standard gloves, which can prove very handy. I got them at Tractor Supply.

2. It's hard to really get a real, roaring fire with a firmly established coal bed. Also, as suggested, I'd verify that my wood is in fact seasoned. A cheap 2 pin moisture meter from Amazon.com will give you far more accurate readings than guessing. Take a piece of wood and split it. Now take a reading from inside the freshly split piece. You'll want to be in the 18%-25% range, ideally. It will take your insert a little time to get up to "cruising" temps as well. From a cold start, it takes me about an hour to get my Endeavor throwing a serious, consistent heat (stove top at 650F).

3. You can purchase a Rutland magnetic thermometer for a few bucks at Ace or Tractor Supply.

 

[drdoct]

The most important tool I got when I got my insert was the welding gloves. I cannot tell you how many logs/coals/hot things I've handled with these gloves. Not to mention the stove gets super hot and one accidental touch will make you wish you put on your gloves. Once you get the gloves and use them a few times, you'll wonder how you ever lived without them. A rake is really handy. Search around on burning tips because a new stove is a completely different approach to burning. With a new stove you won't have to leave gaps between the wood... you just pile it all in all going the same direction. Please make sure you've got some good wood though. Split it and check the inside to see if it's wet. If you don't have a meter then just smell it to see if it smells like newly split wood. If it does then it's probably not ready. Last year I burned 30% wood pretty much all year. It's doable but not ideal by any means. I wouldn't worry too much about your first fire. You did reline your chimney right? If you did then you shouldn't have to worry about the fire getting air. Well I said a lot but wanted to leave the most important thing in your head....


GET THE WELDING GLOVES!

 

[firefighterjake]

Question 1: Tools: It all depends on the individual as to what tools they need. Some folks find tongs useful . . . others use pokers . . . some folks use neither. For me, personally, I'm with the doc . . . the most important "tool" for me are the welding gloves as I use them when reloading the wood, moving the hot bucket of ashes/coals, etc.

I also frequently use a small whisk broom for clean up on the hearth . . . poker . . . shovel . . . ash can . . . chimney brush. Perhaps my most favorite "tool" besides the gloves is the magnetic thermometers -- as mentioned I ignore the written warnings and pay close attention to the numbers -- these have helped me manage my fire better in my own opinion. I have an IR thermometer . . . but honestly it is rarely used anymore since the readings it was giving me were pretty close to what I was getting on the thermometer.

Question 2: There could be a lot of reasons as to why your fire looked the way it did . . . draft issues, unseasoned wood, etc. . . . or it could be that you were actually burning correctly and were getting the heat out of it. For me it seems as though my "best" fires for heat production don't have a lot of flames -- lots of coals and secondary combustion action (i.e. the Stove's Northern Lights).

Question 3: It seems as though many stove manufacturers don't mention thermometers . . . which is a shame since they can help you avoid over-firing the stove and/or run the stove more efficiently. In your case I believe you may be able to stick a magnetic one in one of the front corners . . . perhaps another user of the same model would chime in here.

 

[zknowlto]

Thanks for the replies. After my lackluster first fire and everyone's advice, I tried another fire last night, making sure to really get the kindling going before adding splits. This really seems to have made the difference. It was throwing off much more heat than the previous night. Additionally, I believe I witnessed a "secondary burn", bright red coals on the bottom with wispy flames throughout the chamber (and no visible emissions from the chimney). Having the fire was nice yesterday (it got down in the 50's), but I'm obviously pretty excited about firing it up over the winter.

The wood I bought seems to be <= 30% moisture. I know not great, but could be much much worse. I'm still checking my area for wood that's been seasoned longer or, at the very least, more like I have now that I can save until next year. About the thermometer, what kind of temperature ranges should I be operating the stove? My owners manual was full of warnings about not over firing and noted that if parts of the stove were glowing, the unit was too hot (duh?). It, unfortunately, never gives any specific temperature information.

Thanks again!

 

[BrotherBart]

Advice on temperatures will be all over the map but I keep my stove under 700 degrees stove top temperature and work at settling it in between five and six hundred for the long haul. Usually between five-fifty and six.

 

[velvetfoot]

I don't know if a thermometer is necessary for an insert with a window so you can see what's going on with the fire.
You already were in the sweet spot.

 

[ControlFreak]

In my opinion, these are must-haves:

Welding gloves
A hod (ash bucket)
A long-handled shovel to scoop up ash and get it into the hod
Magnetic thermometer - helps to figure out what's really going on with the stove
Dry wood (split and stacked for at least 1 1/2 years. Wood that's not dry enough will drive you bananas.

These are optional, but nice to have:
A set of tongs so you can reach in and reposition hot logs on occasion. You shouldn't need this much, but sometimes it's handy to have.
I have a short-handled sheet metal shovel (commonly comes along with the hod) that I drilled 3/4" holes in to make it into more of a coal-strainer. This lets me separate the coals from the ash so I don't throw them in the hod. Coals that are not half-smothered in ash do a much better job of restarting the next load.
A bellows or something else to be able to blow air onto the coals for those times when you don't get back to the fire soon enough and it burns down too much. The best thing I have found is a little crank-driven blower designed for this purpose. I have also used a bellows and even a piece of plastic tubing that I blow into and direct onto the coals. All work, but the cranky blower is best.

Welcome to the real world.

 

[summit]

In my opinion, these are must-haves:

Welding gloves
A hod (ash bucket)
A long-handled shovel to scoop up ash and get it into the hod
Magnetic thermometer - helps to figure out what's really going on with the stove
Dry wood (split and stacked for at least 1 1/2 years. Wood that's not dry enough will drive you bananas.

These are optional, but nice to have:
A set of tongs so you can reach in and reposition hot logs on occasion. You shouldn't need this much, but sometimes it's handy to have.
I have a short-handled sheet metal shovel (commonly comes along with the hod) that I drilled 3/4" holes in to make it into more of a coal-strainer. This lets me separate the coals from the ash so I don't throw them in the hod. Coals that are not half-smothered in ash do a much better job of restarting the next load.
A bellows or something else to be able to blow air onto the coals for those times when you don't get back to the fire soon enough and it burns down too much. The best thing I have found is a little crank-driven blower designed for this purpose. I have also used a bellows and even a piece of plastic tubing that I blow into and direct onto the coals. All work, but the cranky blower is best.

Welcome to the real world.

i have a busted shaft from an old 2 iron... the hollow tube, and hole in the old grip are the perfct blowpoke to adjust logs and blow air into the coal bed (like a blowgun) to get stubborn splits going again... they make a poker from cast iron called a blowpoke that is very similar.