New St Croix Greenfield #2 Error

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georroberts

New Member
Nov 3, 2014
7
cincy
I just installed my St. Croix Greenfield today.

To get it started for the first time, I added a cup of pellets, liquid pellets starter gel, lit a match and tossed it in. It burned for a short bit (about 3 minutes) until the pellets burned off, and then it stopped burning. At that point I got a #2 flashing light. I added more pellets, they created a nice, fast flame. But then burned off.

I have yet to see the auger feed. And the #2 light continues to flash.

Any ideas on how to correct this?
 
Doesnt it have an igniter?

The #2 light flashing means the vacuum switch tripped. Sounds like something isn't sealed right whether it be the main door, hopper cover or ash pan door.
 
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Or something plugging venting not allowing vac switch to close. Someone had forgot to take out the venting plug before reinstalling a stove. Plugged it up to prevent cold air into home while servicing stove. Very smoky results.
 
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Tim - The Greenfield is basically a Hastings without the igniter.

georroberts - #2 is a vacuum problem. Check that all doors are closed tightly (ash pan, hopper, the main door). If those are okay, Also make sure there is no blockage in your exhaust pipe (ask me how I know - wait, no, don't - LOL) and if you have OAK set up make sure there is no blockage there. Your manual should tell you what the blinking light sequence is telling you.
 
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I love my igniter. Ive been heating with pellets for 5 years and Ive never once manually lit the stove.
 
I love my igniter. Ive been heating with pellets for 5 years and Ive never once manually lit the stove.

Yeah, before getting my Hastings, I looked at a Greenfield. Wasn't thrilled with manual light, though the owners showed me that it was easy enough. Fortunately the blower wasn't working properly (and they had no clue) so walked away from it and found the Hastings for the same price the next day. Do love electronic ignition though!
 
I just installed my St. Croix Greenfield today.

To get it started for the first time, I added a cup of pellets, liquid pellets starter gel, lit a match and tossed it in. It burned for a short bit (about 3 minutes) until the pellets burned off, and then it stopped burning. At that point I got a #2 flashing light. I added more pellets, they created a nice, fast flame. But then burned off.

I have yet to see the auger feed. And the #2 light continues to flash.

Any ideas on how to correct this?

Check to make sure your combustion fan is spinning at startup. The motor is good for about five years. If the fan isn't up to speed at startup, you'll get a #2 flashing.
 
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Or something plugging venting not allowing vac switch to close. Someone had forgot to take out the venting plug before reinstalling a stove. Plugged it up to prevent cold air into home while servicing stove. Very smoky results.

Oh yeah, that would have been me :)
 
So I got it running and its now been a month with sporadic #2 errors. They were getting more frequent the past week and I wasnt able to run it on the 4th or 5th setting without an error within 30 minutes.

So time for a cleaning I think.

I open her up and as I'm pulling pieces out and dusting and vacuuming, I noticed the right side ash trap door is off and the trap opening is full of chunky ash, as opposed to the left side which has the door intact, and inside is a black soft ash that cleans easily. Problem solved... I think.

What is the best way to clean out those cavities, other than tapping the sides and vaccuming? Is there a way to open them and use a brush?

Is there a Service Manual that can be easily DL'd? Im not confident I can get solid info from my dealer and have more confidence in myself.
 
So I got it running and its now been a month with sporadic #2 errors. They were getting more frequent the past week and I wasnt able to run it on the 4th or 5th setting without an error within 30 minutes.

So time for a cleaning I think.

I open her up and as I'm pulling pieces out and dusting and vacuuming, I noticed the right side ash trap door is off and the trap opening is full of chunky ash, as opposed to the left side which has the door intact, and inside is a black soft ash that cleans easily. Problem solved... I think.

What is the best way to clean out those cavities, other than tapping the sides and vaccuming? Is there a way to open them and use a brush?

Is there a Service Manual that can be easily DL'd? Im not confident I can get solid info from my dealer and have more confidence in myself.
(broken link removed to http://stcroixstoves.com/pellet-stoves/manuals.htm)
 
those arent service manuals, they are operations and owners manuals. Is thats all thats available? I cant find in depth info on assemebly/dissembly/troubleshooting?
 
those arent service manuals, they are operations and owners manuals. Is thats all thats available? I cant find in depth info on assemebly/dissembly/troubleshooting?
Yeah, you're welcome.
 
Your Greenfield is basically the same stove as my Hastings. The directions in the manuals are not that great and say to use the ash scraper to pull out ashes - yeah, that doesn't work so hot. I got a plastic water fitting (not the metal clad, in the plumbing section), cut off the small fitting, and taped the large fitting to the end of the nozzle of my vac. It is fairly stiff, but flexible enough to go thru the hole and out to the other side. Getting large chunks out is an exercise in patience (ask me how I know), but it can be done. You should be able to send the end of the hose clear over to the other ash clean out (or at least feel it with your fingers).
 
Do yourself a favor and make sure to clean out between the front of the stove and the versa grate frame (where the clean out rod goes thru) - anyway I assume you have a versa-grate. I don't think either manual tells you that there is an plate back there that hides a cavity in which ashes will build up. If they build up long enough, they become a rock and you can't use the ash cleanout rod - yep, experienced that too, was that way when I bought the stove. Real b*tch to break up that rock if it forms.
 
Is the clean out rod you're talking about for the pot bottom, drop out, or up top for the heat exchangers? I've had the top one stick from creasote but just ran it on the 5 setting for an hour and burned it clean. Works fine now.

Since the cleaning, I'm still having #2 error issues, and I moved the damper which is creating more problems. I noticed there is no set screw for the damper and have been fighting this thing all afternoon.

Ive tested the door seal, and its tight.

Ive had this thing a month now so its plenty broken in. Now I would like to dial out all the glitches.
 
Is the clean out rod you're talking about for the pot bottom, drop out, or up top for the heat exchangers? I've had the top one stick from creasote but just ran it on the 5 setting for an hour and burned it clean. Works fine now.

Since the cleaning, I'm still having #2 error issues, and I moved the damper which is creating more problems. I noticed there is no set screw for the damper and have been fighting this thing all afternoon.

Ive tested the door seal, and its tight.

Ive had this thing a month now so its plenty broken in. Now I would like to dial out all the glitches.

I'm talking about the rod for the pot bottom. Yours may be slightly different as I looked up the manual and you have the clinker rake (mine doesn't), but I would bet that there is still that area that ash can collect in.
 
So is that a brand new Greenfield, or is a used one? trying to visualize what could be wrong, and everything I can think of shouldn't be a situation resent in a new stove.
 
You burned the stove for a month without cleaning it? I clean ours weekly.
 
bogieb, I'll take a look at that. Ive had no problems with the clinker rake or cleanout rod movement. Something to keep in mind, but I dont think it would cause the pressure error since its contained within the system.

Yes, its brand new. The dealer said when he tested it, it took three tries to get it running solid, then had no problems. When I installed it, yes it took several attempts, but then ran. Maybe every day, or every other day, I get the #2 error. It doesnt really make sense to me.

Ive been burning wood for decades and was under the impression that these were "set it and forget it". Wood was easy to burn, its all the other work thats the killer.

bbfarm, Ive done minor cleaning jobs regularly in accordance with the operations manual. This monthly cleaning is more thorough. In my opinion, its not a function of dirtiness, but more of a malfunction or setting, which is why Im searching for more information. IMO, it hasn't run to my satisfaction since the install and this is a brand new unit. I think 10 #2 errors a week is excessive.

BTW, the dealer was called and will be looking at it shortly.
 
You are correct Geo - that area won't cause issues with the pressure, just letting you know that area is there. You won't really know there is a problem with the rod until the ashes are super packed, and then it is a chore to clean. If you vac it out monthly, you shouldn't have any issues.

Anyway back to your pressure issues. Yes, that is excessive. Even my used, 2008 stove only had the one error when I first started it up, and the I took the newspaper out of the vent pipe and all has been well ;em . A brand new stove should be pretty much set and forget (assuming consistent fuel type). What is your exhaust pipe configuration; how many 90's, 45's, vertical runs and horizontal runs? What kind of termination configuration are you using? I assume it is all 3"? Do you have an OAK? Unless it is a control board or a fan problem, those are really the only things I can think of that there might be an issue with since you have cleaned it, and it started out new.
 
Hmm, could there possibly be leftover packing material in either the air intake or exhaust pipes in the stove (not the external pipes). They don't have to be big pieces, just enough to disrupt the air flow and would move around causing intermittent issues.
 
Have you checked the rubber tube that goes to the vacuum switch for cracks? If all seals are good, the combustion fan is working and the flue and cap is clean and unobstructed, you likely have a faulty vacuum switch.
 
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Have you checked the rubber tube that goes to the vacuum switch for cracks? If all seals are good, the combustion fan is working and the flue and cap is clean and unobstructed, you likely have a faulty vacuum switch.

That there is an excellent suggestion!
 
Exhaust is easy. 3" adapter >3x24" pipe (horizontal) > 3" endcap 45degree angle down with screen. I took it off and its clean.
OAK installed, 6" from thimble to damper, clear.

Vacuum hose is soft and pliable.

Dealer cant be here until the 2nd. Aaargh!

Last night it would go out every 30 minutes. Bah!
 
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