New to burning- flue question

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Gwilkrrs

Member
Hearth Supporter
Feb 15, 2016
3
Maryland
2015 regency free standing stove. The pipe goes straight up and 90’s into brick masonry chimney.
House was built in 1978 with this set up. Chimney has a liner installed. Took pipe off stove to chimney and it’s DIRTY, chunks coming out. Called for a sweep and inspection for next week but in the meantime…….
Stuck my arm in and seems to be a T in the chimney, I can reach down and feel lots of debri. I went outside and opened the clean out door and it’s spotless. Looks like the block was just layed- rough open cell bottom- not a speck of burn debri at all. I am going to clean inside t and try to camera but I don’t think it has an open bottom for cleaning. Is this common?
I will need to take pipe apart every cleaning and vac out the bottom catch of the T?
 
2015 regency free standing stove. The pipe goes straight up and 90’s into brick masonry chimney.
House was built in 1978 with this set up. Chimney has a liner installed. Took pipe off stove to chimney and it’s DIRTY, chunks coming out. Called for a sweep and inspection for next week but in the meantime…….
Stuck my arm in and seems to be a T in the chimney, I can reach down and feel lots of debri. I went outside and opened the clean out door and it’s spotless. Looks like the block was just layed- rough open cell bottom- not a speck of burn debri at all. I am going to clean inside t and try to camera but I don’t think it has an open bottom for cleaning. Is this common?
I will need to take pipe apart every cleaning and vac out the bottom catch of the T?
Sounds like the masonry cleanout was perhaps only useful for installing the liner.
It seems that if it was designed properly you should be able to reach in and remove the cap.
 
So, it sounds like a liner was installed with a tee. Sometimes the installers will bring the tee down to the clean out door and leave it open or they can put a cap on end of tee like it sounds like they did yours. If the tee just has the cap on, you will need to check periodically for buildup in the tee. If all is operating well, it shouldn't be much to clean, especially if you're burning dry seasoned wood. If possible, it would be good to essentially extend the tee bottom down to the cleanout door, thats what my chimney guy did with our liner when he installed the liner many years ago. Makes sweeping easy every year. Good luck.
 
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Most installers put a cap on the bottom of the T. This seals the liner not allowing cold air in. Yes you should always clean out the debris each time you clean. A shop vac can be handy but get a bag for your shop vac.
 
A shop vac can be handy but get a bag for your shop vac.

I have read this many times that you need a special filter or bag when vacuuming soot. I use my shop vac to clean after and while sweeping (I sweep thru the thimble and stick the shop vac in there while using the soot eater) with just the regular filter and have never had any issues.
 
2015 regency free standing stove. The pipe goes straight up and 90’s into brick masonry chimney.
House was built in 1978 with this set up. Chimney has a liner installed. Took pipe off stove to chimney and it’s DIRTY, chunks coming out. Called for a sweep and inspection for next week but in the meantime…….
Stuck my arm in and seems to be a T in the chimney, I can reach down and feel lots of debri. I went outside and opened the clean out door and it’s spotless. Looks like the block was just layed- rough open cell bottom- not a speck of burn debri at all. I am going to clean inside t and try to camera but I don’t think it has an open bottom for cleaning. Is this common?
I will need to take pipe apart every cleaning and vac out the bottom catch of the T?
They should have extended the liner down to meet the clean out with a second tee. But since they did not yes you will need to vacuum that out every time. The pipe needs pulled regardless
 
I have read this many times that you need a special filter or bag when vacuuming soot. I use my shop vac to clean after and while sweeping (I sweep thru the thimble and stick the shop vac in there while using the soot eater) with just the regular filter and have never had any issues.
Your filter will take a lot more effort to clean than the bag. You can modify the bags and reuse them or just toss them. I think of the bags as a profiler for my hepa shop vac filter.
 
2015 regency free standing stove. The pipe goes straight up and 90’s into brick masonry chimney.
House was built in 1978 with this set up. Chimney has a liner installed. Took pipe off stove to chimney and it’s DIRTY, chunks coming out. Called for a sweep and inspection for next week but in the meantime…….
Stuck my arm in and seems to be a T in the chimney, I can reach down and feel lots of debri. I went outside and opened the clean out door and it’s spotless. Looks like the block was just layed- rough open cell bottom- not a speck of burn debri at all. I am going to clean inside t and try to camera but I don’t think it has an open bottom for cleaning. Is this common?
I will need to take pipe apart every cleaning and vac out the bottom catch of the T?
Maybe fish around inside the chimney cleanout. Maybe it just needs for you to reach in and open it the tee by hand? worth a shot.
 
Your filter will take a lot more effort to clean than the bag. You can modify the bags and reuse them or just toss them. I think of the bags as a profiler for my hepa shop vac filter.
Somebody got me on to the drywall bags for my Shopvac. So it seems for my pellet stove, one bag will last a year. I just have a small shopvac with the small size hose. I also found I could keep the main filter on at the same time. I still get tons of suction.
 
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Somebody got me on to the drywall bags for my Shopvac. So it seems for my pellet stove, one bag will last a year. I just have a small shopvac with the small size hose. I also found I could keep the main filter on at the same time. I still get tons of suction.
Exactly the bag keeps most of the ash out of the main filter.
 
The T cap on Duravent DVL comes pre-attached. I drilled out the stainless pop rivets that held it on to put a section of the DVL down to the old masonry cleanout and re-attach the cap with screws, but the connections weren't compatible. At the old place where I made this discovery I cleaned the T with a piece of plumbing elbow attached to the shop vac when I pulled the stovepipe apart.