New To The Forum/Just Picked up a Fisher

[George A]

I have been a long time lurker of this site, and have been burning strictly wood to heat my home ( 1800 sqft )
upstairs, for about 15 years. I am currently on my 2nd Country Comfort insert stove w/blower and it has preformed fairly well.. The one downside i have noticed is the burn time i get with my CC stove insert. It is made of mostly cast iron i believe and weighs about 425 lbs.

After doing much research for the past few years and browsing tons of Fisher's on classifieds throughout various websites, i finally pulled the trigger on one this weekend.. A young couple bought an older house that they are refurbishing and no longer wanted the stove so i swooped it up for $250.. It does not have a UL listing on the back however it is in phenomenal shape for a stove that may be pre 1980. After looking more closely at it, it is a Grandma Bear insert which will take a 27" log and should heat my home just fine.

I have read on here about the boot that is necessary to hook the liner to the top of the stove, so that should not be a problem, however the collar on my current liner is more of an oval or rectangular shaper, so that will have to be swapped out.

I do have a local chimney co come out every other year to give it a good sweep, and he actually told me that because my masonry chimney drafts so well, that i could get away with cleaning every 3 years because when he comes by, there really isn't much to vacuum up after he sweeps the chimney. I have him come every other year more or less for piece of mind.

As you can see from the pics, the rust is absolutely minimal and will not be much of an overhaul before it is installed..

Want to say thanks to Coaly & Pen for all there post regarding the Fishers and the knowledge they have given me and probably most of you on the old slammers..

Thanks

George

 

[coaly]

Welcome to the Forum and family of Fisher Stove owners!

Your Insert is a full size "Fisher Fireplace Insert" with no bear name given. It does use Grandma doors, but Grandma is a freestanding stove.
Very few were made with a pull chain damper control in 1979, so if it has a handle control, it is after 1979. The UL tag should have a build date and fabricator name.
Look into a blower for maximum heat output or make your own from this thread;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/made-a-blower-for-my-fisher-insert.117672/

Depending on your existing chimney flue size you may be able to baffle it with an insulated flue for more efficiency as well.

 

[Lake Girl]

Welcome to the forum ... you've got the right spot and the right guy to talk to about the Fishers! Keep us posted on progress...

 

[George A]

Welcome to the Forum and family of Fisher Stove owners!

Your Insert is a full size "Fisher Fireplace Insert" with no bear name given. It does use Grandma doors, but Grandma is a freestanding stove.
Very few were made with a pull chain damper control in 1979, so if it has a handle control, it is after 1979. The UL tag should have a build date and fabricator name.
Look into a blower for maximum heat output or make your own from this thread;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/made-a-blower-for-my-fisher-insert.117672/

Depending on your existing chimney flue size you may be able to baffle it with an insulated flue for more efficiency as well.

Coaly, thanks for the information.. The flue has a pull handle, not the chain, so it is after 1979, but am i mistaken that all the stoves after 1980 were UL listed ? I don't see a date or stamp on the firebox anywhere.

 

[George A]

Welcome to the Forum and family of Fisher Stove owners!

Your Insert is a full size "Fisher Fireplace Insert" with no bear name given. It does use Grandma doors, but Grandma is a freestanding stove.
Very few were made with a pull chain damper control in 1979, so if it has a handle control, it is after 1979. The UL tag should have a build date and fabricator name.
Look into a blower for maximum heat output or make your own from this thread;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/made-a-blower-for-my-fisher-insert.117672/

Depending on your existing chimney flue size you may be able to baffle it with an insulated flue for more efficiency as well.

Yes i am going to add a baffle, i believe i saw one made out of angle iron and had bricks on top so I'm going to copy that idea.. for a fan, has anyone tried a thermo-electrical fan like the one pasted below ? seem to have good reviews.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ecofan-Original-100-CFM-Wood-Stove-Fan-800CAXBX/206268555

 

[coaly]

All Inserts were UL tested, but early appliances do not all have tags. So without a tag they are technically not a listed appliance. Most customers didn't demand tags back when it wasn't a requirement for installation, especially an Insert that was going into a hearth where a fire burned directly in the opening for years before it was installed.

The Eco-Fan moves a little air off the top of a stove and the front of the Insert gets plenty hot enough to run it up to speed. The air moved is negligible, (better with the newest style blades) but the speed of the rotating blades gives a better idea of heat output and when loading is required more than air flow. The blower you need is way up there in CFM - 225. Not your average small fan. It needs to blow into the slot in the bottom to extract the most heat off the area around the exhaust pipe that you can see above firebox between the top of box and outer jacket. It should have a variable speed switch to run it quietly when lower heat output is needed. If you have the side face plates with slotted holes, it can use the type that hang on the front and blow towards the back, up and out the front, the same as the lower slot under ash fender does.

 

[George A]

This is the current blower on my Country Comfort stove, it works great and it would be nice to use however it will not fit in front of the Fisher after it is installed in the fireplace.. Might have to take it apart to see how many CFM it is running.. Works simply by pulling the air under the stove, routes it behind the stove's heatbox, then back out thru the slots cut above the door..

 

[Lake Girl]

Is there any way to add space under the insert (adding square tubing subframe)? Not sure how tight it is in the fireplace opening but, if you can get a bit more height, you might be able to get a similar blower for the Fisher.

 

[George A]

View attachment 181820
View attachment 181821
View attachment 181822

I have been a long time lurker of this site, and have been burning strictly wood to heat my home ( 1800 sqft )
upstairs, for about 15 years. I am currently on my 2nd Country Comfort insert stove w/blower and it has preformed fairly well.. The one downside i have noticed is the burn time i get with my CC stove insert. It is made of mostly cast iron i believe and weighs about 425 lbs.

After doing much research for the past few years and browsing tons of Fisher's on classifieds throughout various websites, i finally pulled the trigger on one this weekend.. A young couple bought an older house that they are refurbishing and no longer wanted the stove so i swooped it up for $250.. It does not have a UL listing on the back however it is in phenomenal shape for a stove that may be pre 1980. After looking more closely at it, it is a Grandma Bear insert which will take a 27" log and should heat my home just fine.

I have read on here about the boot that is necessary to hook the liner to the top of the stove, so that should not be a problem, however the collar on my current liner is more of an oval or rectangular shaper, so that will have to be swapped out.

I do have a local chimney co come out every other year to give it a good sweep, and he actually told me that because my masonry chimney drafts so well, that i could get away with cleaning every 3 years because when he comes by, there really isn't much to vacuum up after he sweeps the chimney. I have him come every other year more or less for piece of mind.

As you can see from the pics, the rust is absolutely minimal and will not be much of an overhaul before it is installed..

Want to say thanks to Coaly & Pen for all there post regarding the Fishers and the knowledge they have given me and probably most of you on the old slammers..

Thanks

George

Call me stupid, but on my old stove , when u close the flue, it closes all the way and retains heat. Now when u pull the Flue handle on the Fisher flue, it only covers 3/4 of the flue exhaust. Aren't you loosing tons of heat because of this ?

 

[begreen]

A flue damper never closes all the way. If it did the house would fill with smoke and/or CO.

 

[George A]

Next question, i noticed that only one of my doors has the hinge on the back... The other is either broken or does not exist..

 

[George A]

Quick question, what size bolts ( stainless steel ? ) are you using to attach the block off plate to the top of the stove ?

 

[begreen]

Normally a block-off plate is installed in the chimney in the damper area and not attached to the stove. Tapcons and #10 screws work fine for this. They don't need to be stainless, nor does the block-off plate.

more info here with examples at the end:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/why-damper-seal-is-needed/

 

[George A]

Normally a block-off plate is installed in the chimney in the damper area and not attached to the stove. Tapcons and #10 screws work fine for this. They don't need to be stainless, nor does the block-off plate.

more info here with examples at the end:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/why-damper-seal-is-needed/

Correct, i do have a block off plate with insulation.

 

[coaly]

First, a damper doesn't hold any heat back. The temperature reduces with time since the damper slows the velocity of the flue gasses rising up the stack. This in turn reduces draft, which slows the incoming air through the intakes, slowing the fire. You adjust the damper according to the chimney flue; diameter, height, and insulation (interior / exterior, masonry, or insulated pipe). An 8 inch masonry chimney will need so much heat you will only close it partially. The better the chimney, the hotter it will stay with less heat lost up to keep it hot. The better the chimney, the more it can be closed. The key is keeping flue temp above 250* f. to the top. (when smoke particles exist) The damper is for the chimney, not the stove. You adjust it for the chimney. They will not seal fully.

Not sure what you mean by missing hinge.
The door hinge ear is on the outside with a 3/8 solid rivet used as a hinge pin connecting door to the hinge plate welded on the stove front.
Your picture shows the plate on back of door that holds the left door handle from moving. The door handle is inserted through door, bent over, and is not removable. The plate should hold the left door handle in a fixed position. Only the right door handle moves and doesn't have a retaining plate.

Pictured below are the two raised bosses protruding from back of door with the door handle rod bent tightly to door so the raised portions prevent handle from rotating. Not all are welded to door. Looks like your handle was cut off and the plate welded to the rod was then welded to door. If the handle is there and doesn't move, it is fine. Each fabricator had their favorite way of doing things, so it will vary, and these details give clues as to who made the stove. When closed, the angle of the latched right door handle should match the angle of the left door handle. If not, let us know and I'll give you simple adjustment directions to make them match.

NO gasket is required as pictured !

 

[begreen]

Quick question, what size bolts ( stainless steel ? ) are you using to attach the block off plate to the top of the stove ?

Correct, i do have a block off plate with insulation.

Already installed? Did you mean a baffle plate?

 

[George A]

Normally a block-off plate is installed in the chimney in the damper area and not attached to the stove. Tapcons and #10 screws work fine for this. They don't need to be stainless, nor does the block-off plate.

more info here with examples at the end:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/why-damper-seal-is-needed/

Screw size for side panels ? Self taping ?

 

[George A]

First, a damper doesn't hold any heat back. The temperature reduces with time since the damper slows the velocity of the flue gasses rising up the stack. This in turn reduces draft, which slows the incoming air through the intakes, slowing the fire. You adjust the damper according to the chimney flue; diameter, height, and insulation (interior / exterior, masonry, or insulated pipe). An 8 inch masonry chimney will need so much heat you will only close it partially. The better the chimney, the hotter it will stay with less heat lost up to keep it hot. The better the chimney, the more it can be closed. The key is keeping flue temp above 250* f. to the top. (when smoke particles exist) The damper is for the chimney, not the stove. You adjust it for the chimney. They will not seal fully.

Not sure what you mean by missing hinge.
The door hinge ear is on the outside with a 3/8 solid rivet used as a hinge pin connecting door to the hinge plate welded on the stove front.
Your picture shows the plate on back of door that holds the left door handle from moving. The door handle is inserted through door, bent over, and is not removable. The plate should hold the left door handle in a fixed position. Only the right door handle moves and doesn't have a retaining plate.

Pictured below are the two raised bosses protruding from back of door with the door handle rod bent tightly to door so the raised portions prevent handle from rotating. Not all are welded to door. Looks like your handle was cut off and the plate welded to the rod was then welded to door. If the handle is there and doesn't move, it is fine. Each fabricator had their favorite way of doing things, so it will vary, and these details give clues as to who made the stove. When closed, the angle of the latched right door handle should match the angle of the left door handle. If not, let us know and I'll give you simple adjustment directions to make them match.

View attachment 181936 NO gasket is required as pictured !

Hey, i knew you would chime in at some point haha

 

[George A]

Already installed? Did you mean a baffle plate?

No sir, no baffle in the stove yet.. Im talking about the piece of insulation that is right above where the liner attaches to the stove in the chimney.

 

[George A]

Not sure what you mean by missing hinge.
The door hinge ear is on the outside with a 3/8 solid rivet used as a hinge pin connecting door to the hinge plate welded on the stove front.
Your picture shows the plate on back of door that holds the left door handle from moving. The door handle is inserted through door, bent over, and is not removable. The plate should hold the left door handle in a fixed position. Only the right door handle moves and doesn't have a retaining plate.

that is the answer to my question !! thanks

 

[George A]

First, a damper doesn't hold any heat back. The temperature reduces with time since the damper slows the velocity of the flue gasses rising up the stack. This in turn reduces draft, which slows the incoming air through the intakes, slowing the fire. You adjust the damper according to the chimney flue; diameter, height, and insulation (interior / exterior, masonry, or insulated pipe). An 8 inch masonry chimney will need so much heat you will only close it partially. The better the chimney, the hotter it will stay with less heat lost up to keep it hot. The better the chimney, the more it can be closed. The key is keeping flue temp above 250* f. to the top. (when smoke particles exist) The damper is for the chimney, not the stove. You adjust it for the chimney. They will not seal fully.

Not sure what you mean by missing hinge.
The door hinge ear is on the outside with a 3/8 solid rivet used as a hinge pin connecting door to the hinge plate welded on the stove front.
Your picture shows the plate on back of door that holds the left door handle from moving. The door handle is inserted through door, bent over, and is not removable. The plate should hold the left door handle in a fixed position. Only the right door handle moves and doesn't have a retaining plate.

Pictured below are the two raised bosses protruding from back of door with the door handle rod bent tightly to door so the raised portions prevent handle from rotating. Not all are welded to door. Looks like your handle was cut off and the plate welded to the rod was then welded to door. If the handle is there and doesn't move, it is fine. Each fabricator had their favorite way of doing things, so it will vary, and these details give clues as to who made the stove. When closed, the angle of the latched right door handle should match the angle of the left door handle. If not, let us know and I'll give you simple adjustment directions to make them match.

View attachment 181936 NO gasket is required as pictured !

Thanks for the info.. the door handles match up fine when closed.. Now Coaly, where can i find some Nickel color paint for the draft caps? i have done quite a bit of searching on here and not finding a location.. going to leave the doors black but hand paint the draft caps... just enough to bring the stove out a little if you know what i mean.. My caps are aluminum i believe, once cleaned i found the Pat Pending numbers on the inside.. However after searching this stove top to bottom, I'm still not finding a serial number or location of origination of the stove.... may be on the bottom.. will look when i get i picked up with the front end loader..

 

[begreen]

No sir, no baffle in the stove yet.. Im talking about the piece of insulation that is right above where the liner attaches to the stove in the chimney.

OK, read the provided wiki article link and examples in the article.

 

[George A]

OK, read the provided wiki article link and examples in the article.

Will do, thanks ! I was actually talking about the plate that sits on top of the stove that blocks off chimney..
Thanks for the help !

 

[coaly]

Thanks for the info.. the door handles match up fine when closed.. Now Coaly, where can i find some Nickel color paint for the draft caps? i have done quite a bit of searching on here and not finding a location.. going to leave the doors black but hand paint the draft caps... just enough to bring the stove out a little if you know what i mean.. My caps are aluminum i believe, once cleaned i found the Pat Pending numbers on the inside.. However after searching this stove top to bottom, I'm still not finding a serial number or location of origination of the stove.... may be on the bottom.. will look when i get i picked up with the front end loader..

Clean the draft caps down to bare aluminum with lacquer thinner, then paint. Before firing to cure paint, wipe edges with mineral spirits to remove fresh paint from edges only. Caps for solid black doors should have brushed edges in which case you simply buff with Scotch Bright. Nickel doors have polished edges that you need to polish with any precious metals polish.

Below are the two finishes to make it original;

Brushed left ; Polished right.

 

[George A]

Thanks Coaly !!