Newbie needs some questions answered

[Jmhm17]

Hello everyone, I am really new to the wood stove life and would like to learn some things. I just bought a house about a month ago and it came with a wood stove in the basement. It is a single story 1200 sq/ft ranch with an unfinished basement. the stove is located in the basement, the previous owners brother was a Mason and he built the chimney, I want to say the stove and chimney were installed around 4 years ago. I was hoping you guys could tell me what kind of stove this is. I have been reading a lot about these new EPA stoves and I dont think this one is. There is no firebrick inside of it and I run fires around 450*F according to the stove pipe burn indicator, there is a damper on the stove pipe that I keep a 1/4ish open all the time, and I regulate the fire at 450* no mater how much wood is in there with the vents on the door. I start the fire with newspaper and kindling, and once I get a good fire going I normally stuff it and check it every half hour to 45 min and add 2,3, some times 4 logs as needed. I inspected the chimney and theres no creosote buildup on the clay lining. My questions are to all of you:

How should I run this stove? Should I be using the "Burn Indicator" dial as a reference? How often should I throw wood in there to prevent the coals from just building and building? How should I set the pipe damper? and what kind of stove is this, should I add firebrick?

I have included pictures:

 

[Jmhm17]

No one?

 

[begreen]

The stove looks to be choked down from 8" to 6" flue which is generally frowned upon. I would move it closer to the wall just to reduce buildup in the horiz. section of pipe. Based on the paint, the stove looks like it has been run hot. Have you ever read temps on the stovetop? If yes, what are they typically running at?

 

[Jmhm17]

Thanks for the reply. Not sure how hot the top of the stove gets, but I generally keep that burn indicator you see on the 8inch pipe around 400-450. The reason it is so far out from the wall im assuming is to try and heat more area around the stove rather than the foundation right behind it. Also how can you not "choke" the pipe when the flue is 6"?

 

[jatoxico]

No stove ID expert here so can't help with that. It does look like an older non-epa stove many of which had 8" flues. Although there are still stoves that call for an 8" many/most use 6" these days. If BG is right you have an 8" flue that is being reduced to 6" pipe before going into the clay liner. Not recommended but if your not getting smoke spillage or creosote it may be OK. Others more qualified may chime in.

Stove does look like it has been fired hot. It's not a bad practice to also have a thermo on the stove top. Not knowing your exact stove can't say for sure but somewhere around 550-600 with occasional peaks to 700 or a bit more is OK. Glowing stoves and stove pipes is not good. Use your air control and damper to stay in a safe range.

If you can control the fire with the stoves air control or with the help of the key damper then have at it. You can add fire brick to spme of these older stoves and a baffle if it does not have one. (take a pic of the interior). May or may not be worth the effort. A new stove like the Englander nc 30 will use less wood if you ever decide to go that way but will require dry wood which generally takes more time in the stacks before its ready.

Are you getting any useful heat or is the basement sucking up all the BTU's?

 

[Jmhm17]

Thank you for the info. I dont have smoke coming from the reducer, only when i start a fire but its quick once the fire starts the draft pulls well. Also i have never run the stove hot enough to make any part glow including the pipe. I feel im running it safe just the warping on the sides concerns me. I know the previous owner used this as there main heat source. Burned about 2-3 cord a winter. Said he would some times stuff it for a 6-8 hour burn and kick the vents down low.

As for heat it heats the whole house and holds 5 degrees hotter than what i set the thermostat and 45 min after i get a fire going the furnace will not run till the fire dies.

I know i need to clean the pipe this spring but am unsure of how to go about it or just buy a new pipe..

once the fire dies out ill take a pic of the inside.

Thanks for all the info please keep it coming the more i learn the better. I want to make sure i dont burn my new house down.

 

[jatoxico]

There are kits you can buy to clean your own chimney. Considering the home is new to you probably should have a certified pro cleaning first time so it can be inspected for safety at the same time. I see water/creosote staining at your cleanout. Do you have a rain cap? If not prob a good idea to get one.

Aside from maintaining safe clearances around the stove, the idea is to prevent chimney fires which are dangerous. The best thing to do to prevent chimney fires is to burn dry wood at the proper temp. Wood that sizzles and is hard to start is too wet and makes creosote. Shutting the air and smoldering the fire too much isn't good either, you need to send a certain amount of heat up the chimney so the gases don't condense in the chimney.

Chimney's on exterior walls (like mine) tend to be colder and more prone to creosote so it may take a season before you know how often you need to sweep. Many do a sweep at the beginning or end of the season and a mid season but it all depends on your burning habits.

 

[Dune]

is the "burn indicator" on your stove pipe meant to be on your stove? Regardless of what you think, it has been run long and hard.
My guess is that you are overfiring every single burn. The only thing saving you from nuclear meltdown is that the key damper is partially closed.
If you have to add 3 or 4 logs after 30-45 minutes you may want to turn the primary (inlet) air down. Once you have a good bed of coals and load appears charred, dial the air down. You don't want it to smoulder (partially extinquish the flames) you just want to reduce the amount of fire.
Being how new you are, please buy a stove top thermo.

Firebricks, yes.

Key damper; always start with the key damper fully open. When you turn the primary air down, you can adjust the key damper down also. Always open the key damper before opening the stove door. (I know you haven't had to do this as yet, because you are running a naturally aspirated blast furnace).
So, in the future, on a normal burn, you will have less air rushing up your pipe. Because you have the pipe bushed down and a long horizontal run, you are likely to get smoke spillage when you open the door, unless you: open the key damper, open the air inlets, wait a minute for stronger draft to establish itself.

Generally speaking, burning with the primary air fully open for more than 5 minutes or so is a problem. Yes, I am repeating myself, so I am stopping now.

One last thing; Consider insulating your cellar walls. Concrete is a fair heat conductor and you are wasting significant heat.

 

[Jmhm17]

Thanks for the replies.

I plan on cleaning the chimney my self due to cost. There is no rain cap and i plan to install one in the spring.

Recently. Since i have posted this. I have started to run smaller fires and let them burn down for an hour to an hour and a half and add 3 logs at most. Im trying to avoid a raging camp fire now. The tip on the key damper is good. I normaly only have spillage when the fire is new or when a log is too close to the door when i open it but i will open the key damper for now on since my fires are smaller the draft is smaller.

As for the burn indicator i assume its ment for the pipe because its magnetic. What should I get for thermos? can you guys link me?

You say "yes" to firebrick. I thought it will prevent the heat from radiating., if its recommended tho how should i line it?

Again, thank you all for the help i greatly appreciate it. I have attached additional pictures per requests

 

[jatoxico]

There is a product called a Soot Eater that can be used for cleaning from the bottom up. Many discussions here or use traditional setup from the top. A sweep and inspection shouldn't set you back much though. Just trying to be safe and making assumptions about a 600 deg fire in your basement isn't the best idea.

Was the stove warped when you got it? The color indicates over firing. Again you should monitor the stove temp. Thermos are cheap.

 

[Jmhm17]

Maybe calling some one out the first time is a good idea then. I can ask questions too. I was going to go to my local stove shop and do the same. As for the stove being warped. I have only lived here 6 weeks, this stove has not changed the way it looked since I bought the house. I have only run 1/8-1/4 of a cord through this stove, I light it once maybe twice a week now, at first I was running fires almost every day (after i got over the fear of it). It is not run all the time for me like it was the previous owner tho. From what I was told this stove was run 24/7 from November to March for 4-5 years. You guys have me worried now that this stove has been over fired and is nearing (if not past) the end of its life. I cant afford a new stove right now and would love to keep this one going..

 

[jatoxico]

Maybe calling some one out the first time is a good idea then. I can ask questions too. I was going to go to my local stove shop and do the same. As for the stove being warped. I have only lived here 6 weeks, this stove has not changed the way it looked since I bought the house. I have only run 1/8-1/4 of a cord through this stove, I light it once maybe twice a week now, at first I was running fires almost every day (after i got over the fear of it). It is not run all the time for me like it was the previous owner tho. From what I was told this stove was run 24/7 from November to March for 4-5 years. You guys have me worried now that this stove has been over fired and is nearing (if not past) the end of its life. I cant afford a new stove right now and would love to keep this one going..

Not trying to be alarmist and honestly it looks like a safe install. I think you're fine, just trying to promote safe practices. Look it over good, check for cracks and if you can pull the pipe from the stove and check for creosote all the better.

The key I think is whether or not you can control the fire. If the stove is warped and is letting in uncontrolled air so you cannot avoid an over fire, that would be bad. If you can slow the fire with the air controls and control the temps then the stove is functional and you're OK. That's why I'm suggesting monitoring the stove top too.

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

I think for the first time it would be in your best interest to search out a professional sweep that will clean it properly, install a cap and guide you on usage and what to look out for, then down the road you can do it on your own. You inherited someone else's install and the stove has been through the wringer....... That beast is in your basement where it is out of sight, better to be safe....

 

[Jmhm17]

Good advise. Thank you all. Does anyone have a link to the kind of temp guage i should by for the stove top?

Also yes or no for an official answer on the firebrick?

 

[jatoxico]

Most people seem to settle on the Condar thermometers. I have a Rutland but want to replace it. They make different ones with for various applications. Good stove shop should have them or Amazon??

For the fire brick question new thread may help. Post a good pic and some dimensions.

 

[Dune]

Firebrick will help the stove reach gasification temps and preserve the stove walls. It will not stop heat radiation but will slightly slow the initiation thereof. You don't need it, but it is a cheap improvement.