Newbie problem: Chain saw drifts right
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your teeth on the right side are slightly worn. can see it in the pictures. might have nicked a small pebble or rock.
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
That explains it: touching dirt only once, for a millisecond is sufficient to dull the chain.
The chain is very dull.
That chicanic gal hasn't a clue how to sharpen a chain. Or how to run a powersaw. Steve and Buckin are decent sources for some info.
To dress your bar, if it's needed, just get a ski edge sharpener (90* one). Or get the same tool called a "bar dresser" or something like that. Wear good heavy leather gloves. Those rails become razor sharp! Or just use a mill bastard. It works just as good, maybe better, if you are good with hand tools. I did it for years that way and then one day I realized my ski sharpener would work just dandy. Then I started to run across a bunch of pretty much identical bar dresser tools.
Flimsy bars can easily be turned by the operator. Stiff, robust bars, not so much.
That chicanic gal hasn't a clue how to sharpen a chain. Or how to run a powersaw. Steve and Buckin are decent sources for some info.
To dress your bar, if it's needed, just get a ski edge sharpener (90* one). Or get the same tool called a "bar dresser" or something like that. Wear good heavy leather gloves. Those rails become razor sharp! Or just use a mill bastard. It works just as good, maybe better, if you are good with hand tools. I did it for years that way and then one day I realized my ski sharpener would work just dandy. Then I started to run across a bunch of pretty much identical bar dresser tools.
Flimsy bars can easily be turned by the operator. Stiff, robust bars, not so much.
I agree about chickanick being a hack sharpener for sure. But the first part of the vid she explains the chain and it's parts very well to someone who is new to chains and understanding them.
I love buckin but many people don't have the patience to watch his long vids.
Apparently she does that for a living.
Actually got one of them ski sharpeners. But now I'm thinking it's the teeth. Gonna measure my file diameters, or maybe just hold them against the chain and see whether one of them looks like it fits.
It's definitely the chain. Clear as day in the pics once you zoom in. You are going to have to file them back quite a bit to get past those nicks.
Here is buckin.
Here is buckin.
a deep hook is not needed what is important is that the side wall does not lead the the top edge. that in itself will supply the proper hook when using the proper size file. When hand filing you need sideways pressure not a down force . There are file holding jigs that locate the proper depth of the file for you. Highly recommend one of those .
Thanks again to everybody for all the help! I sharpened the chain, and now it cuts straight as an arrow:
Since it seems (much to my surprise) I only own two round files, one too small and one too big, and my Dremel tool is still somewhere boxed up in the garage, I spent 30 bucks on a new Dremel-like electric sharpener. I didn't get all the teeth to look exactly the same, but apparently what I did is good enough. Cutting is like day and night compared to before. No pressure or wrangling needed at all.
Since it seems (much to my surprise) I only own two round files, one too small and one too big, and my Dremel tool is still somewhere boxed up in the garage, I spent 30 bucks on a new Dremel-like electric sharpener. I didn't get all the teeth to look exactly the same, but apparently what I did is good enough. Cutting is like day and night compared to before. No pressure or wrangling needed at all.
Chain sharpening is an art unto itself. A sharp chain is probably the most important thing in wood gathering. And chains dull very easily. So, if you know how to sharpen you have things much easier than someone using a dull chain. Chainsaws, chains, and sprockets function best with sharp chains, too. Chains will stretch faster with dull teeth - and it stresses sprockets and the chainsaw engine and suspension, too.
I have evolved into a competent sharpener. I wouldn't say I'm good. Getting it sharp enough quickly is what I'm looking for. Right now, I'm a Dremel sharpener. Hand filing takes too long. Those Stihl guides seem to work well but I haven't used one. Logically, the best method is quick and accurate.
I'm evolving towards a Granberg Precision Grinder, G1012XT. I don't have one yet. It is fast and accurate taking about the same amount off of each tooth and maintaining the exact same angle each time. This is more accurate than either hand filing or grinding with a Dremel free hand. I'm guessing that I can get a chain to last longer and be sharper with one of these Granberg sharpeners. Moreover, if you have a 12 Volt jumper box (like for dead car batteries) you can use this Granberg out where you are wood gathering. The downside - the bits are expensive.
I have evolved into a competent sharpener. I wouldn't say I'm good. Getting it sharp enough quickly is what I'm looking for. Right now, I'm a Dremel sharpener. Hand filing takes too long. Those Stihl guides seem to work well but I haven't used one. Logically, the best method is quick and accurate.
I'm evolving towards a Granberg Precision Grinder, G1012XT. I don't have one yet. It is fast and accurate taking about the same amount off of each tooth and maintaining the exact same angle each time. This is more accurate than either hand filing or grinding with a Dremel free hand. I'm guessing that I can get a chain to last longer and be sharper with one of these Granberg sharpeners. Moreover, if you have a 12 Volt jumper box (like for dead car batteries) you can use this Granberg out where you are wood gathering. The downside - the bits are expensive.
I have a couple shop chain grinders i use to fix bad chains.
I also use a 12 volt dremel style for everyday sharprning when cutting firewood.
At times i hand file, especially the rakers. I plan on setting one of my shop grinders up just for rakers.
All i have to cut here is Spruce which is more forgiving to cut then hardwoods
The biggest part of sharpening is knowing what each part of the tooth does, and how to sharpen it.Then the tool used to sharpen isn't as important
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
The top tooth on the 3rd picture (as pointed out by others) is really dull. You can see how the hard chrome on top is worn back. You need to file/grind until the hard chrome goes right to the cutting edge. The color should be consistent all the way and there should not be any grooves on the cutting edge.
It takes some practice to get good but if you can sharpen knives you will pick it up faster. I learned to use a bare file when I was running saws for my job but these days I often use one of the Oregon flat plate guides.
It takes some practice to get good but if you can sharpen knives you will pick it up faster. I learned to use a bare file when I was running saws for my job but these days I often use one of the Oregon flat plate guides.
Thanks for the recent replies, all! I did sharpen the chain with a Dremel-like tool, and it is pretty easy to get good cutting results. The noodles are from cheating while splitting, pre-sawing some cuts along the length of the stump, as seen in one of the recommended videos. It's a bit of a waste of wood, but makes splitting so much easier.
I just threw on a big pine chunk from one of the large logs/stumps, and it burns like gangbusters!
I just threw on a big pine chunk from one of the large logs/stumps, and it burns like gangbusters!
"At times it's the best thing to do." So I don't drop a nut loading the splitter.
Noodling is nearly an art. There is a fine line between ripping a big round and taking the saw apart to get the noodles out of the drive LOL 😆
A tip I got is to cut at an angle to shorten the chips just enough that they clear the clutch cover. Works great.
As for a good sharpener I have to say I personally love the stihl all in one thingamajig. It does the rakers and the teeth all on the same stroke everytime. Yes I can get the tooth a little better with just one round file but the difference is negligible. Especially when you take into consideration the time savings.
Doing the rakers was always a pain in the ass before this thing. I use a few different saws a day and have one for each saw. I can touch a saw up in about a minute or two.
Doing the rakers was always a pain in the ass before this thing. I use a few different saws a day and have one for each saw. I can touch a saw up in about a minute or two.
Do all the different Stihl sharpening jigs, FG1 - FG4 , do the cutters and rakers, or is it only the FG1 that does both? (FG1 manual: https://cdnassets.stihlusa.com/1625859413-fg1manual.pdf)
Which one would you recommend?
I'm not sure the model but this is what it looks like.Do all the different Stihl sharpening jigs, FG1 - FG4 , do the cutters and rakers, or is it only the FG1 that does both? (FG1 manual: https://cdnassets.stihlusa.com/1625859413-fg1manual.pdf)
Which one would you recommend?
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