Nothin' a little paint can't fix

[kdp7462]

Check out the Englander for 400 with 25 bags of pellets...

(broken link removed to http://www.unclehenrys.com/CLASSIFIEDS/Search/ExhibitDetail.aspx?ExhibitID=-2135280302&ishistoricsearch=N&ReturnPage;=/Classifieds/Search/Results.aspx?SearchID=45827360&SearchResultIndex=0&ishistoricsearch=N#)

This might be enough to make Mike H cry.

 

[imacman]

........This might be enough to make Mike H cry.

Speaking of Mike H, why don't you ask the owner of the stove to give you the serial #, and contact Mike to find how old the stove is, what the parts will cost, his opinion if it's even worth it, etc. Or at least ask mike to take a look at the pic.....maybe he can tell from that. It might be a "diamond in the rough".

 

[stoveguy2esw]

looks like a 1995 model 25-pdvp , i can get MFG date with serial number , actually its on the same tag, looks like a 95 , if im off im off a year at most. good stove , all 3/16th and 1/4 top yep wire wheel on a drill and a couple hours and new paint i could make it look like it was built yesterday. shame its been neglected, at that age and looking like that i'd be suspect of the motors though the old analog board we used back then was pretty forgiving (of course our new digital will run it as well) that stove for 400 bucks , if the electrical parts are ok and you dont mind an afternoon with a very dirty job it wouldnt be a bad buy , that stove sold new in 1995 (assuming im right on the date) for about 1300-1400 bucks new in box. heck i certainly had a hand in building that unit was a pretty solid stove in its day rated up to 1800 sq ft burns about 1.5 to 5 lbs an hour. has a 140 cfm room fan , 4 header pipes pushes heat pretty well. there is a lady about 4 miles from me who has a 96 version of that stove that i service annually for her (just did it about 3 weeks ago) looks a bit better than that one , she takes great care of it , its been through 1 auger motor and an exhaust blower in 12 seasons (exhaust blower didnt fail but was getting loud so it got replaced.) any questions about the old girl feel free to ask i can tell you literally anything you want to know about that stove

 

[lmjr]

Picked up one of these 25-PDVP's at local auction recently.

It's was mfg'd in 09/97, w/ Serial Number WHI-002844

I'm quessing it's out of warranty!

Unbelievable the metal thickness in this beast Wonder what it weighs in at?

I found no manual @ESW that refers to the analog controls only references the digital controls.

It's appears to not be in bad shape...no rust...but I'll need to get a good look "under the hood" before I really know.

Paid $60. bucks for it w/ pipe and ftgs included.

And now I have a newer stove than my other one.

 

[imacman]

....I found no manual @ESW that refers to the analog controls only references the digital controls.......

Give Mike a call at the Englander tech line number....I'm sure he can share some info about the stove and answer any questions.

 

[lmjr]

Picked up one of these 25-PDVP's at local auction recently.

It's was mfg'd in 09/97, w/ Serial Number WHI-00284

I'm quessing it's out of warranty!

Unbelievable the metal thickness in this beast Wonder what it weighs in at?

I found no manual @ESW that refers to the analog controls only references the digital controls.

It's appears to not be in bad shape...no rust...but I'll need to get a good look "under the hood" before I really know.

Paid $60. bucks for it w/ pipe and ftgs included.

And now I have a newer stove than my other one.

This thing is a Beast!

I put her on the bench and cleaned the ins and outs passage-ways w/ vac and compressed air.

Both the blower/fans appear to have been replaced and possibly low mileage units. As do the auger / gearboxes.

So, I oiled all motors...greased the bearings on augers and lit her up w/ some AWP pellets...WOW!

Metal tag states 56,000 btu/hr...I only ran her at 50% and was impressed...a little scared to run her any higher as air temp out was around 350*F.

I ordered 3 cans of Stove Bright to freshen her up a bit. I am hoping to find her a new home come fall...hope I don't get too attached to her before then.

 

[drizler]

When you start cleaning up tbat stove don't bother with that drill mounted wire wheel. Get yourself a 4" grinder and stainless cup and disk wheel. That will serve you for a lot of future jobs and do oh so much more and get it done right. When you are done cleaning it up a nice touch is some PHOSPHORIC ACID sprayed on then wiped off takes care of any of the microscopic stuff you will come across especially in the inside edges and corners. Harbor freight sells em for $20 and they last for years in spite of being Chinese, the orange ones seem to last a lot longer than the blue ones.

 

[lmjr]

When you start cleaning up that stove don't bother with that drill mounted wire wheel. Get yourself a 4" grinder and stainless cup and disk wheel. That will serve you for a lot of future jobs and do oh so much more and get it done right. When you are done cleaning it up a nice touch is some PHOSPHORIC ACID sprayed on then wiped off takes care of any of the microscopic stuff you will come across especially in the inside edges and corners. Harbor freight sells em for $20 and they last for years in spite of being Chinese, the orange ones seem to last a lot longer than the blue ones.

Thanks for the tips!

Where can I get some Phosphoric Acid? I know Coca_Cola...but that's a bit sticky.

Naval Jelly is Phosphoric Acid and available, can that be diluted for spaying?

Would Oxalic Acid do as well?...I see that available in wood bleach for deck cleaning.

 

[drizler]

I know Parks makes it in 1 qt plastic bottles that are square and green in color. Lowes used to have it but not sure now days. Any big hardware or paint store should have it. The stuff they make for cars is very similar and way overpriced . It doesn't work quite as well as naval jelly but you can spray it on with a sprayer bottle really well. I leave it right in the plastic spray bottle of choice for future use and it doesn't seem to tear it up. Very handy stuff if you play with sheet metal.

 

[lmjr]

For anyone else following this to solve the rust before fresh paint....OSPHO

Phosphoric acid. Preps rusty steel for painting. Actually converts existing rust to a barrier coat.

HOW SKYCO OSPHO WORKS

When applied to rusted surfaces, it resists/retards rust in chemical change on drying to a tough, hard surface ready for priming. A paint job will last longer after an application of OSPHO because subsequent paint coating securely attaches itself so that moisture and oxygen normally do not attack the metal. OSPHO is water-thin, can cover a larger area than paint, and goes on easily. It is equally effective for exterior and interior work alike. SKYCO OSPHO: a balanced formula of Phosphoric, Dichromate, Wetting Agents and Extenders . . . compounded exclusively by the Skybryte Company since 1947 ... recommended by paint manufacturers

 

[drizler]

Just don't go taking all that rust conversion coating mumbo jumbo too seriously. Always it is far better to have bright shiny clean steel than whatever prep you may have going for you. The big feature of phosphoric acid is that it will convert whatever you can't get at down in the corners and crevices. I have some really nice stuff called Picklex and at $100 / gallon I only use it on the occasional hard to get car part. Side by side it doesn't do all that much more than the straight acid I keep hanging in a spray bottle on my tool box. They both are green, smell the same and burn your fingers if you have a cut they get into. I like the $4/qt price I got at lowes when I bought up all they had since it was half price. Take your time and do a good job be it with the stainless wheels, sandpaper or steel wool you will have a good solid paint job that will last. It will be so purdy you won't want to burn it.................

 

[lmjr]

You mention stainless wheels in your replies.

Is it not good to use steel cup wire wheel?

 

[drizler]

Stainless is harder steel and every wire wheel I know of is made of it. It also is supposed to have other properties being less prone to causing galvanic corrosion of the worked piece afterward caused by microscopic pieces of the wheel embedding into the piece. Makita sells nice ones but they are pricey so I try to buy Forney brand which is pretty good as well. Even the humble dremel tool is very handy for rust removal in small places if you have to deal with things like that such as corroded electrical terminals and lead ends. You don't really need all these goodies while a few pieces of sandpaper and some steel wool will do the job though often a lot slower. Cup wheels are better for flatter surfaces while round often get into corners and edges a bit better. The ones for mounting on your drill work but are slower. If your drill is over 1000 rpm it should work just slower than the grinder wheel type.
IF YOU DO DECIDE TO USE WIRE WHEELS DO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES IF YOU DON'T WEAR GLASSES ALREADY. Those little stainless missles can come off and will at 10,000RPM sink right into you. I have had a couple stick in my face and need digging out so you can imagine if one goes into your eye.