Oil boiler is dyin

[Adios Pantalones]

The dude says my 30 yr old Weil McC boiler is starting to rot through in a couple spots (he pointed them out). Dude says it won't last another winter- even though it's mostly my DHW source, as I have an insert that heats the house more or less.

So- if you had it to do from scratch- what would you do? i need to be cost effective, as I'm un/under employed.

-It would prolly have to be in the basement- not much of a way to get an outdoor system where I am.
-Need backup for when I travel, etc. Would have to be electric or oil.
-I dunno what an oil boiler would run me right now, but it must be price competitive, including any backup (oil, electric, etc) system.
-Baseboard hydronic already installed
-1600 sf log home- about average insulation

I was thinking about an EKO40 with home made pressurized storage, electric backup. Not sure if that's crazy or what.
Is the creosote/smoke smell issue for EKO resolved or overblown?
Could I charge up 500 gal on one firebox load and get DHW for my wife and I wofr a week in the summer (no hot tub or anything like that)

Thanks,
-pH

 

[flyingcow]

I'm thinking some sort of tankless system for the short term. then figure something out? just a thought.

 

[NHFarmer]

You could always use an electric hot water heater for the summer. When I was installing my Tarm that is what I did . I left it in the system so if I need it all I need to do is open a couple of valves and turn on the disconnect. I am still burning wood and plan to keep burning for the summer.

 

[pybyr]

I'm inferring that you need away-from-home backup for space heat (in other words, not merely backup for hot water) so that pipes don't freeze-

But I am also assuming that such "backup" does not need to maintain full ordinary comfort-

Unless your electric rates are a lot lower than I am guessing, trying to heat a whole house with electric resistance heat, even on an occasional basis, will be like throwing grocery bags of $20 bills into a bonfire.

If your insert really meets your heat needs OK, and assuming that the "backup" is to protect the place from freezing when no one is there (not necessarily maintain full comfort), what about a tankless gas water heater to supply your DHW, and then something like one of these (which a friend of mine is happily using for similar freeze-protection purposes) tucked into your cellar:

https://www.rezspec.com/catalog-udap.html

Hope my suggestion of a solution without wood is not heretical hereabouts... but it sounds like O.P. A.P. is OK with wood for regular space heat, and just needs a solution for DHW and freeze protection when away, and as much as I like gasifiers and storage, if the existing "insert" is doing the job for space heat, I am not sure that a gasifier+storage will resemble anything that will pay itself off quickly...

 

[Nofossil]

I'm in the same situation, almost. I'm replacing my old oil boiler with a tankless propane DHW heater - the Takagi TKjr which I got for under $500 delivered. Not all tankless heaters are designed to be used for space heating, so check before you buy.

In my case, most of my need is for DHW during shoulder seasons, but I need to have backup space heating as well. I'm setting the Takagi up with a flat plate HX so that it can do both.

I've not had much issue with smoke and smell from the EKO, but there's a LOT less draft in the summer. I've never run it in really warm weather (above 40 degrees). I use solar for DHW in warm weather - see my site in my sig below.

 

[rowerwet]

Eastern Propane quoted me 8K to replace my oil boiler (still running strong as a backup) and 5K to replace oil with propain system for FHW and DHW combined. I am looking at buying a boiler used off of craigslist or the want advertiser (from one of those people who bought into the hype on propain, or converted to NG) and putting it in my self. hoping to do this for less than a grand, by reusing the pumps etc. BIG diy project.
My other idea would be a tankless hot water heater with a circulation pump, I installed mine for less than 1K a few years ago, make sure you have enough baseboard to heat the house to at least 60 on 140 degree water (mine can be tweaked up to this), also make sure it is a tankless that will accept high water temps coming into it. (like the ones some on here use with their OWB setups so that they only burn when the OWB isn't)

 

[Chris S]

I have a house being heated with the Takago jr. as well. Lp is a good solution if you don't have another chimney available. There are some units that provide both heat and hot water without having to get a flat plate heat exchanger. Crown Bali, Triangle tube makes one as well. Both are wall hung gas units and simple.

 

[Wet1]

AP,
I converted over to NG last year and still have the two oil boilers I took out, one is pretty tired, but the other is in excellent shape. The good one is a Slant Finn, I want to say it's around 125k to 150k btu and around 84 or 85 efficient. I think HD still sells the same boiler today at around $1800+. I bought it in 2001 and installed it in 2003, so it has had very little use (I burn pellets and wood as well). I'm not all that far from you and if you're interested in it, I'm sure we could work something out.

 

[oilbegone]

I use a Toyotomi OM 180 for backup heat, it is an oil fired on demand hot water heater, I tried it on a couple of cold days this winter and it was able to keep up with the demand. When my oil hot air furnace died I already had the Tootomi as a water heater, it worked so well I decided to use it as back up heat.
The way I have the Tarm Solo 30 hooked up now it is my only source of DHW. Once the heating season is over I will be able to tell you how long the 600 gal storage will last for hot water. (Just two people) I will probably do some extra plumbing this summer to be able to use the Toyotomi for DHW by isolating it from the storage tank with a bypass and a couple valves. Eventually I plan to add a couple zones of radiant heat to the first floor where I have access to the floor joists.
Good luck Clint