Was filing by hand , want to try more effective and fast way.
Is this one any good:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?productId=3653703
Is this one any good:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?productId=3653703
Oregon Sharpening Tool at L...es. Is it good.
- Thread starter Dmitry
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
Save your money, those things burn through stones real quick and are hard to keep properly positioned, better to get a bench mount unit , there is a bar mounted wheel unit also from a couple sources, dc driven. would be a much better choice than your link. The one from Oregon( bar mount) is real pricy but there are others around the $ c note or less range. I keep several loops on hand for each saw, so I just change them in the field sharpen later on bench unit. I sharpen around a 100 chains a month for myself and customers.
For just a few dollars more, buy the Stihl 2 in 1 EZ filing guide.
As long as you can chuck the bar and saw up in a vise, you can't beat the way this thing sharpens. The ergonomic design and way it hits the rakers makes this thing really, really easy to use, and you can take an old, messed up chain and make it cut ribbons again.
Best of all, it doesn't take much metal off the saw, like an electric file can.
As long as you can chuck the bar and saw up in a vise, you can't beat the way this thing sharpens. The ergonomic design and way it hits the rakers makes this thing really, really easy to use, and you can take an old, messed up chain and make it cut ribbons again.
Best of all, it doesn't take much metal off the saw, like an electric file can.
Timberwolf530
Member
Don't get that thing. You'll just grind your chains down too fast, and it will eventually end up sitting in a drawer. Keep working on your hand filing with a file guide. You'll get it eventually. I've been using saws for over 30 years, and I still use a file guide. I don't see how guys can do it without one and get good results. I can do OK on the angle, but the guide really helps from going too deep.
Last edited:
I agree. I've had several electric grinders/sharpeners over the years. Learning to hand file is the best solution. Files are cheap, you don't need power or fancy gizmos, and files take the least amount of metal off the cutter.
Again, I HIGHLY recommend the 2 in 1 file guide. Pferd invented it, won several awards for it, and now Stihl sells it. I just fixed a couple of really ugly blades for my dad that he had mis-filed with a grinder, and he said they are now sharper than new. He just cut with his brother in law, and his brother in law wondered how my dad was making spaghetti strands when he cut.
D8Chumley
Minister of Fire
^^^ What these guys said. I bought one of them, used it once and chucked it in a drawer. I have a cheap Harbor Freight bench grinder, use it sparingly now that I have the Pferd 2 in 1. Love that thing, I use it for all my 3/8 chains and pretty much just use the bench grinder for the Picco on the MS 170
D8Chumley
Minister of Fire
http://www.amazon.com/Pferd-Regular...d=1440835394&sr=1-2&keywords=pferd+round+file
I haven't used mine enough yet to have to replace the files. I have maybe a dozen touch ups on mine and still good to go
I haven't used mine enough yet to have to replace the files. I have maybe a dozen touch ups on mine and still good to go
2 schools here those that advocate hand filling and then the machine types, Guess I would say I fall into the machine type but I do some 100 chains a month, No way am I hand filing that quantity ( and yes I can Hand file with the bet of them- free hand even) If I am really in a bind in the field - hand file, but I always have several loops along for each saw to avoid that as much as possible.
Machines take too much off - simple - operator error
I have plenty of chains come in that are hand filed - in some cases just to get everything trued back up.
No denying from a cost standpoint that hand filing is least costly- once you learn how to do it correctly. Not that much different on learning how to use the machines properly. Machines get a bad rap mostly because down at the hardware store low person on the line gets the chain sharpening job with less than adequate instructions.
Machines take too much off - simple - operator error
I have plenty of chains come in that are hand filed - in some cases just to get everything trued back up.
No denying from a cost standpoint that hand filing is least costly- once you learn how to do it correctly. Not that much different on learning how to use the machines properly. Machines get a bad rap mostly because down at the hardware store low person on the line gets the chain sharpening job with less than adequate instructions.
I bought the Oregon rotary file, except I got the 12v version for use in the woods with the tractor. I used it a few months, then put it in the drawer too. I've gone through bench sharpeners, manual files, file guides, just about everything except the Timberline and it's too much money IMHO. I finally went back to the Oregon and added a few drops of light machine oil on the stone and it is the best sharpener I have. If you are grinding through stones, you are pushing WAY too hard. I tough up the chain every other gas tank and it works GREAT.
A bench grinder/sharpener is good if your chain is very dull but it does not make the proper curve on the teeth. Manula files are great but too much work for me. The Oregon file makes the identical cut as a manual file without the work. Just use a light touch.
A bench grinder/sharpener is good if your chain is very dull but it does not make the proper curve on the teeth. Manula files are great but too much work for me. The Oregon file makes the identical cut as a manual file without the work. Just use a light touch.
jeffesonm
Minister of Fire
I used the Dremel version for a few years. It is quick, easy, and does a decent job. Only complaints are you can't use it in the field, and I only ever got the chain 'pretty sharp', not 'brand new chain' sharp.
Recently I bought the Granberg File-n-Joint. it is a jig that attaches to the bar and uses a regular file, but holds it at the precise correct angle. It is fairly quick once you get the hang of it, can be used in the field without removing the bar/chain from the saw and makes a damn sharp chain. It's also adjustable in the off chance you need to file at some weird angle. It was <$50 for the jig and a box of files and after 50+ sharpenings I've still got more than half the box of files left.
![[Hearth.com] Oregon Sharpening Tool at L...es. Is it good.](/talk/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.treestuff.com%2Fstore%2Fimages%2Fproducts%2F518.jpg&hash=8b62cf4422381baf60a1b90ea296a9a7 "[Hearth.com] Oregon Sharpening Tool at L...es. Is it good.")
Recently I bought the Granberg File-n-Joint. it is a jig that attaches to the bar and uses a regular file, but holds it at the precise correct angle. It is fairly quick once you get the hang of it, can be used in the field without removing the bar/chain from the saw and makes a damn sharp chain. It's also adjustable in the off chance you need to file at some weird angle. It was <$50 for the jig and a box of files and after 50+ sharpenings I've still got more than half the box of files left.
- Status
