Osburn 2000 Insert - Blower?

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emsflyer84

Member
Sep 12, 2011
78
Central NH
Hey all, just lit my first fire of the year in my Osburn insert which was new at the beginning of last winter. I plugged in the blower and…nothing. It won’t turn on at all. It was fine last year and all we did was unplug it for the summer season. I did have the chimney cleaned and I wasn’t home when they did they work so I assume they had to get into the stove or pull it out of the fireplace it’s in, but I don’t know for sure. Any ideas what to check? Thanks!
 
I don't have an Ozburn but my blower has a thermostat that kicks in. Maybe there is bad connection there. I'd check your manual or go onto the Ozburn website for troubleshooting tips
 
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I have a brand new Osburn 2000.... and the blower RARELY turns on. The firebox seems REALLY hot, but the fan rarely runs. It will if I OPEN the door for a couple minutes. After I close it, the fan shuts off after 20-30 seconds, and I KNOW th ebox is still really hot. I'm thinking I need to bypass it by just connecting the two wires that connec to the thermostat
 
I have a brand new Osburn 2000.... and the blower RARELY turns on. The firebox seems REALLY hot, but the fan rarely runs. It will if I OPEN the door for a couple minutes. After I close it, the fan shuts off after 20-30 seconds, and I KNOW th ebox is still really hot. I'm thinking I need to bypass it by just connecting the two wires that connec to the thermostat
This could be as simple as improving the contact of the thermostatic snap switch to the stove body. If there is a tiny air gap between the switch and the stove body then it's sensitivity is reduced. Opening the door might be causing a small shift in weight that helps press the switch closer to the stove body. If so, a thin shim can sometimes improve contact. If that checks out ok, then it could be a faulty snap disk. These are a common item and it is possible to replace it with one of a lower "on" temperature.

Just to verify, is this a 2000 freestander or insert? Do you have a thermometer on the stove? If so, what temps does it run at?
 
Thanks. It is an INSERT. Very large 45 year old fireplce. Really inefficient, so this looks like a fix. The installer replaced the thermostat. No help. Actually starts less often. ??? I do not have a thermometer, but I can tell you that the handle is VERY warm, and the fan won't run. Not sure about a "snap" switch. ??? This thermostat is a small cylindrical thing. About 1/2" in diamter and 1/2 inch long. Two leads.with quick connectors attached to the two tabs on the thermostat.
What sort of thermometer do you recommend and where does it attach?
 
Yes, the thermostat is a snap disk switch. It's normally open but closes to make the circuit at a set temperature. Usually this is around 125º. The slide-in tray design of the blower assembly can make for poorer contact.

It looks like a 2" dial thermometer can be placed in the corner above the stove face above the door on the left or right side.

Is this an interior or exterior wall fireplace? Was a blockoff plate installed in the damper area of the fireplace?
 
It is in a fireplace on an outside wall/ I didn't watch them install it, They had to cut out the damper and put a "angled" (flexible?) piece of flue pipe to connect to the new flue liner. If the door handle is significantly hot to the touch, I'm fairly certain the metal exterior hits 125, but I can't verify right now. I tried to attach a photo of a fire this morning, but I get a "file is too big" error message, even at less than 500 KB file size. I resized it from 5MB. I must be an idiot. It shows a HOT fire after 3 hours of burning, and NO fan startup occurred.
 
Most likely it doesn't have a blockoff plate. Installing one will definitely improve the heat output. If there is room, slipping some insulation behind the insert will also help. As it is, a lot of heat gets sucked out through the cold surrounding masonry.

The temperature on the face of the stove will be more like 500º if the stove is burning a full load of wood.

Try making the image size to something like 1000 pixels wide. That should post ok.
 
I found a magnetic analog oven thermometer. When I put it on the "shelf" that protrudes above the door and the blower exhaust ports, it reads 450 F. Since that piece of metal is "outside" the box, that seems like enough heat to warrant the activation of thee blower. Yes? No? When I stick it io the outside of the door (on the "face" between the glass and the hinges) OR on the little bit of the "side" that is exposed beyond the faceplate, it reads a little over 300 F.
 
Most likely it doesn't have a blockoff plate. Installing one will definitely improve the heat output. If there is room, slipping some insulation behind the insert will also help. As it is, a lot of heat gets sucked out through the cold surrounding masonry.

The temperature on the face of the stove will be more like 500º if the stove is burning a full load of wood.

Try making the image size to something like 1000 pixels wide. That should post ok.
Here's the resized photo. This fire is HOT. No blower operation. ????

IMG_0337 1.jpg
 
My Osburn 3500 insert was doing the same thing when it was first installed. After looking carefully I realized the whole blower assembly was not properly "latched in" to the stove. So the little thermal disc that lets the fan turn on when the stove is up to temperature was not making good contact with the body of the stove. I suspect you have the same issue going on.

I would detach the blower assembly off the stove and look carefully at the way it mounts to the stove. Then reassemble it, being careful to make sure all the mounting tabs are engaged.

This is hard to describe in words but once you pull the blower assembly off the stove and look at the mounting tabs it will be obvious.
 
It takes a while for the blower to activate even when attached properly on my Osburn 1600 insert. I think it's by design to allow the firebox to heat up properly before starting to pull more heat into the room. This will keep stack temps up. Mine will kick on when STT gets up to 550+. I have strong drafting chimney and dry wood so it happens pretty fast. Yours sounds excessive and possibly broken but that is what's going on.

I get around this by turning the blower on manually when the box gets to adequate temps then later in the burn I'll flip it to auto and it'll stay on until box is basically out. It switches off around 150 degrees. Quite low.