PC 45 3 blink status light

nlstockstill

Member
Aug 7, 2016
22
65785
I’m getting the 3 blink, ESP Fault. Stove will power on and feed pellets but never ignite. Thinking maybe the igniter is shot I thought I’ll just fire it up manually. Unplug, and then plug back in, fill the hopper with pellets, put some fire starting gel on it, turn the stove on everything seems to be taking off like it should. Combustion blower, distribution blower, all working. And shortly I can see the igniter is starting to work.
Now I’m thinking, great, it’s all working as it should. I hear a click and the igniter shuts down, and the combustion blower stops. Fire slowly fizzles out. I walk away thinking the blower motor will shut down shortly. Forget about it for the day and come back a good 8 hours later and it’s still feeding pellets and the stir rod is grinding them to powder. Overfilled the burn pot and I’m sure it is giving the auger motor a workout at this point.
So after all this, anybody have any suggestions? I hate to buy a $300 control board just to throw parts at it. I am fairly remote so I don’t know how steep a service call is going to be.
Thanks
I just replaced the ESP with no luck. Has had a very thorough cleaning. All holes cleaning the burn pot. Exhaust cleaned out. Fines box cleaned.
 

MtDew

Burning Hunk
Oct 4, 2013
228
Perkasie, PA
Sounds like a control board issue
 

nlstockstill

Member
Aug 7, 2016
22
65785
Well. Got a new control board in. Problem NOT solved. I’m at a loss. Sounds like I’m going to be making the difficult task of hauling this this to the dealer.
If anyone has any other ideas, I’m all ears
 

bags

Minister of Fire
Oct 12, 2014
2,397
Kentucky
Three blinks is the ESP which you said you covered with a new one already. Check and blow out the clear vacuum hose on the rear. Possibly the room temp probe? If not it could be the board. My guesses but it's worth making sure the cheap stuff is good before springing for a board.
 

nlstockstill

Member
Aug 7, 2016
22
65785
Ok I’ll check the vacuum hose. I know I’ve seen it somewhere, but anybody know off hand the ohms value for a good room temp probe?
Also, I’ve already replaced the control board unfortunately.
 

bags

Minister of Fire
Oct 12, 2014
2,397
Kentucky
Ok I’ll check the vacuum hose. I know I’ve seen it somewhere, but anybody know off hand the ohms value for a good room temp probe?
Also, I’ve already replaced the control board unfortunately.
Not sure off hand but search it here because I've seen it before. Or Google that.
 

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
3,034
Lorraine NY
yes with a digital multimeter you can test them. (DIGITAL)red ones are between 1,000 to 1,100 ohms of resistance depending on what your room temp is (remember if the stove has been off for a while the probe may be much colder from the cold air outside coming through the pipe, i typically take them out to test them between 67-72 degrees) (ANALOG) black ESP probes should read around 650,000 to 550,000 ohms resistance, and lastly the room sensing probe should be around 3,600 to 3,300 ohms resistance. After taking a good initial read you can breath on them or use any heat source and the resistance should lower as the probe heats up except the red which should rise, hope this helps.
 
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nlstockstill

Member
Aug 7, 2016
22
65785
I had actually just found those values! But thank you for posting them! My new ESP checks out good. My room temp sensor was at about 4,100. So not exactly idea. But I can’t imagine that keeping it from starting up or functioning or anything like that.
Even at that, if the stove were switched to “stove temp” before ever plugging it in or turning it on or anything, shouldn’t that allow it to work fine? Assuming the room temp sensor is bad