Pellet stove issue after power outage,Stone River Works-Chatham

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Shorty77777

New Member
Feb 4, 2015
3
Upstate ny
have a stone river works pellet stove Chatham insert for 2 years. Recently had power outage while stove was running. Upon power being restored, the stove would not work with error code involving light #2 on heat output bar flashing which means vacuum switch contacts were open for more than 15 seconds. To reset circuit board after a trouble code, manual says to push the on/of button which does Nothing to correct problem. Any suggestions?
 
Try unplugging it, wait for a few minutes and then plug it back in.
 
Not to be the bearer of bad news but now you know why so many harp on about having stoves plugged into a good surge protector. The spike might have damaged something. You will need to start somewhere and begin asking questions to figure out what might have been affected.

I am not in tune with the stove you run at all but there is help here.
 
Not to rant, but this sort of failure is the reason I get so upset with the current stoves and their controls that are made over sea's

The tiny little IC's and such are just so sensitive to any little blip in the power flow.

A friends wife walked up a few weeks ago and touched the controls on their stove and phhhhhst, died right there.

Near as I can tell is she zapped it with static.

The old relay controls were pretty much bullet proof

Without a full schematic, it's tough to figure it out.

Most surge strips they sell are nearly useless, and are best at instilling a false sense of security.

A power outage should not do anything by itself, but if there is a BROWN OUT there can be issues, as the amperage goes way up as the voltage drops in the toilet.
 
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Not to rant, but this sort of failure is the reason I get so upset with the current stoves and their controls that are made over sea's

The tiny little IC's and such are just so sensitive to any little blip in the power flow.

A friends wife walked up a few weeks ago and touched the controls on their stove and phhhhhst, died right there.

Near as I can tell is she zapped it with static.

The old relay controls were pretty much bullet proof

Without a full schematic, it's tough to figure it out.

Most surge strips they sell are nearly useless, and are best at instilling a false sense of security.

A power outage should not do anything by itself, but if there is a BROWN OUT there can be issues, as the amperage goes way up as the voltage drops in the toilet.

So what would you consider a OK surge strip, without building your own.
 
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So what would you consider a OK surge strip, without building your own.

Yeah, I soon as I read that post stating "most" were useless I started researching surge protectors. I'm sure Snowy knows which are good and which aren't. I want to make sure I recommend the best ones to our customers.
 
A lot of us feel we have a good or decent one. Time will tell.
 
A store bought APC works well as a surge suppressor. Just make sure it's sized properly for your stoves current draw.
 
Most surge strips they sell are nearly useless, and are best at instilling a false sense of security.

A power outage should not do anything by itself, but if there is a BROWN OUT there can be issues, as the amperage goes way up as the voltage drops in the toilet.

Yes, BROWN OUT'S will kill equipment. Also, when the power first comes on, the voltage goes quite high until the line has all of its loads back on. We're not talking spikes but over-voltage and under-voltage conditions. That's why I recommend a voltage regulator. It acts to boost or lower voltage in those conditions.

http://smile.amazon.com/APC-LE1200-...=1423244904&sr=8-1&keywords=voltage+regulator
 
Yesssssssss

The APC is the ticket.

Most little strips are sketchy at best.

IMHO power outages generally are not a spike issue, but rather can see a drop in voltage where the lights all dim down then finally go out.

Just having the power shut off should cause no harm.

The stove should have a lock out relay that once the power fails a reset button must be pressed to reactivate the unit.

So even if the power is off for a few seconds 2-3-5 or whatever the relay is opened and requires intervention.

The line voltage can do whatever and not hurt things.

The brown out is another story.

I have seen a couple of those, where a tree or ??? fell on the power lines and sat there smoldering until it finally caused the breakers in the line to blow.

While the tree is causing a SHORT the voltage can fall off.

Most residential feed is 7200 VOLTS prior to the transformer.

THIS STUFF burns trees and generally raises hell when it gets loose.

Bottom line, the electronics packages in most stoves today are very fragile, and when subjected to anything outside a narrow operating band GO POOOOOF !!!

The APC is likely the best choice.
 
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Speaking of over and under voltages

Here at the ranch, the line voltage can and does vary by time of day/night

I have seen the 240V nominal range from 209 to 245

In the wee hours of the morning the load on the grid is low, and power goes up a bit.

My large Whit will cycle the auger 1 second faster at 2 am than at noon

Instead of 7 seconds off time, it will be 6 seconds

The room air fan runs faster too, not a lot, but enough to hear it.
 
I have my desktop computer on a device like you mention. It has a holding relay that keeps power on to the computer, monitor, and printer, but, if power goes out, it won't come back on without pushing a button to set the holding relay. It at least protects stuff from the surge when power is restored.

I have a whole house electrical monitoring system (TED - The Energy Detective) that keeps track of my usage, projects the bill, and educates you (the most important part) on what amount you are using now. A typical voltage daily range this time of year is 115 to 122 volts. In the summer, it's worse. Yours is really bad! You really do need someone to look at that.
 
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