Have people here used an equivalent amout of pex? That's a big investment in copper. As an aside, I just did my first pex plumbing job in the house, and it's very easy to do the joints.I ran copper, 220 ft of 1 1/4" It stays nice where you put it, without the movement of pex. If I have to, I can sweat a fitting without running out to rent a pex tool. Copper is a one time investment.
If frozen copper will bust open. Pex usually doesn't.
With the cost of my install going to 15 thou. + [Garn, building, plumbing] I didn't feel the need to cheap out on pipe. Copper is forever, [my opinion] plastic, well, who knows? Has it been tested for 50 years? When I was a 'new guy' at CL&P. someone made the decision to go with rubber ties to hold the wire on insulators, 10 years and thousands of rubber ties later, the sunlight broke them down, wire fell off the glass, burned down, tore bushings out of transformers, etc. They saved some money when they bought those rubber ties though.Have people here used an equivalent amout of pex? That's a big investment in copper. As an aside, I just did my first pex plumbing job in the house, and it's very easy to do the joints.
All my boilers have 1 1/4" pex in the long runs, once i got to the last 12 ft before the boiler i switch to black iron pipe. I just have a couple 90's before or after the pex joint to take up expansion. I have not notice any expansion in my systems and have not had any burst or broken pipes. Before crimp rings were so handy to get for this size i used double hose clamps on every joint with barb fitting. They are still working. So get a good pex pipe and go for it. Foamit UP
I got 2 legitimate estimates for boiler install. The plumber that quoted copper was significantly cheaper than the plumber who quoted pex. This was surprising to me, but struck me as a no-brainer...go with the guy who is going to use copper and do it for less money. Not being a plumber, I wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something. Still sounds like a no-brainer given the circumstances.Ya - there is also a difference between near-boiler piping, and, well, not near-boiler. Maybe the OP could clarify some on what he's planning & his boiler setup - including overheat/heat dump setup. I don't think I would want PEX on the part of my system that is going to be dumping heat if needed - or near boiler.
According to this study. Uninsulated 3/4" Pex-Al has a larger temperature drop than 3/4" copper! (broken link removed to http://www.savegas.com/NewsArticles/HotWaterDist_Part4.pdf)Aside from pex being a whole lot cheaper, any other advantages to pex vs. copper?
Interesting. If true, it would make a great in-tank heat exchanger.According to this study. Uninsulated 3/4" Pex-Al has a larger temperature drop than 3/4" copper! (broken link removed to http://www.savegas.com/NewsArticles/HotWaterDist_Part4.pdf)
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