Picked up a USSC Corn/Pellet stove Model 6041

[Sono]

Drove 4 hours round trip with a couple stops in between to pick up a bag of pellets and paint. Unloaded and cleaned out all the packed in ash behind the cleanouts and opened it up to check and clean the internals as well. Apparently it sat outside a bit before it was saved by the kid I got it from, after opening it up there was a lot of rust in the bottom and what looked like light mud residue. I asked if it was in a flood but said it just sat in the rain awhile before he got it... Anyways, I brushed it out and vacuumed everything, was debating using a rust converter or paint but said forget it as it is not visible once closed up.... But I cleaned the interior the best I could with a brush. Wire brushed the rusty exterior, wiped down with acetone and started painting. Contacted USSC for a replacement handle so waiting on response for those (#2 and #4 on the parts list)
Finally fired it up and she works perfect, ran for about an hour before shutting it down, burn clean and really throws the heat. Im happy with it, just need to finish painting it.

 

[Washed-Up]

Nicely done Satisfying more than anyone knows!

 

[Whitenuckler]

Drove 4 hours round trip with a couple stops in between to pick up a bag of pellets and paint. Unloaded and cleaned out all the packed in ash behind the cleanouts and opened it up to check and clean the internals as well. Apparently it sat outside a bit before it was saved by the kid I got it from, after opening it up there was a lot of rust in the bottom and what looked like light mud residue. I asked if it was in a flood but said it just sat in the rain awhile before he got it... Anyways, I brushed it out and vacuumed everything, was debating using a rust converter or paint but said forget it as it is not visible once closed up.... But I cleaned the interior the best I could with a brush. Wire brushed the rusty exterior, wiped down with acetone and started painting. Contacted USSC for a replacement handle so waiting on response for those (#2 and #4 on the parts list)
Finally fired it up and she works perfect, ran for about an hour before shutting it down, burn clean and really throws the heat. Im happy with it, just need to finish painting it.

I could use something like that for my garage...

 

[Sono]

Nicely done Satisfying more than anyone knows!

Was a little nervous at first, thinking it had issues, then realized it had a damper... opened it up and she went all out with heat. A bit different from most pellet stoves Ive seen as there is more control options. I was amazed at the amount of heat it puts out. Looking at the specs it burns 25 hours on pellets and 24 hours on corn per bag.... what is cool is it has an auger in the burn pot that stirs the pellets as it burns.

 

[johneh]

Nice find . I have been looking for a corn stove
because there is a lot of corn grown here and every
year they scorch some when drying. It can be had cheaply
or they just dump it You only have to pay for transport to your bin

 

[ARC]

Was a little nervous at first

Great stove have had my USSC 6039 since 2007, 6041 is the next generation. Good info here;

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-troubleshooting.158667/

 

[Sono]

Great stove have had my USSC 6039 since 2007, 6041 is the next generation. Good info here;

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-troubleshooting.158667/

Thanks. Mines Dated 2009 and hopefully its a great stove as I plan to keep this one. Looks like a little learning curve with the manual damper on front, wont really know until it gets put to use. The test run in the garage was great especially once I figured out the damper was closed, after opening the heat was almost instant. Its not like the others I had that would burn up to 3 days (Englander)

 

[ARC]

A couple of things to look for. Behind the backer board in the firebox are two holes if plugged with electrical box plugs stove produces more heat B in picture. Check thermostat connection on control board there should be a jumper in place see pic with penny if not you will have to make a jumper or add a thermostat. Think about installing a OAK outside air kit, if you look under the firepot there should be a cap some completely remove that cap some drill holes in cap and replace it E in picture Steel Shallow Cup Freeze Plug 2 7/64". Then the damper will remain closed and you will adjust air with the control board.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/us-stove-6039-manual-draft-and-oak.184251/#post-2472306

 

[Sono]

A couple of things to look for. Behind the backer board in the firebox are two holes if plugged with electrical box plugs stove produces more heat B in picture. Check thermostat connection on control board there should be a jumper in place see pic with penny if not you will have to make a jumper or add a thermostat. Think about installing a OAK outside air kit, if you look under the firepot there should be a cap some completely remove that cap some drill holes in cap and replace it E in picture Steel Shallow Cup Freeze Plug 2 7/64". Then the damper will remain closed and you will adjust air with the control board.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/us-stove-6039-manual-draft-and-oak.184251/#post-2472306

How does the fiber board come out, Mine is cracked in half and dont want to damage it any more than it is ( Id like to repair it with some high temp silicone before replacing it as well... Still trying to figure out how that and the fire pot removes.

 

[ARC]

Remove the hair pin from agitator/stirrer. slide stirrer rod 1 inch to the right, pot then just lifts out with stirrer rod in it. You can then slide stirrer rod to the left and tilt the right side upward, slide rod up to right and out. You have to remove pot first to remove backer board, board lifts up about a inch then pull bottom outward, after you clear small lip pull/tilt bottom outward while lowering the board. The top of the board is held by a small 1x2 inch piece of metal lip you do not remove the metal just slip board down and out.

New Board on sale right now. Look around you might fined it cheaper.
https://pellet-stove-parts-4less.co...l74K4TeQvwurMn7_mdVmR9JMyRgDEbNhoCcN0QAvD_BwE

Or you can make a sturdier one out of Castable Refactory Cement. 12 pound bucket makes two boards not that you will ever need the second one. Has to be Castable Refactory Cement not regular cement or mortar and not the black furnace cement.

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...oD8li43UERuh_FKTTlPrYbMFBH9hgMfRoCCqcQAvD_BwE


Bought castable refractory cement at ACE hardware, let it dry for two days then cured it in my barbecue grill as it does smell a little when curing. Of course you will use a square center for the 6041, use the broken board as a guide on how big and shape of framing. White sheet on inside of frame is a pellet bag so cement comes out of frame better. You could also make lines on the front of board by laying sticks under plastic. I made a NY Yankees one for a friend, just remember what ever design you use it will be reversed/mirror image on the front of board. Like the wrinkles of plastic you can see on my board.

 

[Sono]

Remove the hair pin from agitator/stirrer. slide stirrer rod 1 inch to the right, pot then just lifts out with stirrer rod in it. You can then slide stirrer rod to the left and tilt the right side upward, slide rod up to right and out. You have to remove pot first to remove backer board, board lifts up about a inch then pull bottom outward, after you clear small lip pull/tilt bottom outward while lowering the board. The top of the board is held by a small 1x2 inch piece of metal lip you do not remove the metal just slip board down and out.

New Board on sale right now. Look around you might fined it cheaper.
https://pellet-stove-parts-4less.co...l74K4TeQvwurMn7_mdVmR9JMyRgDEbNhoCcN0QAvD_BwE

Or you can make a sturdier one out of Castable Refactory Cement. 12 pound bucket makes two boards not that you will ever need the second one. Has to be Castable Refactory Cement not regular cement or mortar and not the black furnace cement.

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...oD8li43UERuh_FKTTlPrYbMFBH9hgMfRoCCqcQAvD_BwE


Bought castable refractory cement at ACE hardware, let it dry for two days then cured it in my barbecue grill as it does smell a little when curing. Of course you will use a square center for the 6041, use the broken board as a guide on how big and shape of framing. White sheet on inside of frame is a pellet bag so cement comes out of frame better. You could also make lines on the front of board by laying sticks under plastic. I made a NY Yankees one for a friend, just remember what ever design you use it will be reversed/mirror image on the front of board. Like the wrinkles of plastic you can see on my board.

Thanks, Got a busy weekend ahead but next week Ill try and get it apart and all as I wanted to clean the burn pot just couldnt figure out how to get it out even after pulling the pin, nothing in the manual on it.

 

[Sono]

A couple of things to look for. Behind the backer board in the firebox are two holes if plugged with electrical box plugs stove produces more heat B in picture. Check thermostat connection on control board there should be a jumper in place see pic with penny if not you will have to make a jumper or add a thermostat. Think about installing a OAK outside air kit, if you look under the firepot there should be a cap some completely remove that cap some drill holes in cap and replace it E in picture Steel Shallow Cup Freeze Plug 2 7/64". Then the damper will remain closed and you will adjust air with the control board.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/us-stove-6039-manual-draft-and-oak.184251/#post-2472306

I got it apart, found the 2 holes behind the backer board. My question on those is... If it produces more heat, will it affect any other operations/sensors ? Otherwise I will close them off for better efficiency. The burn pot is stainless steel surprisingly and in good shape, I wire wheeled the residue off of it thinking it was rusted steel but it was smooth stainless. Now I noticed the igniter tube appeared to be upside down, the angle didnt match the burn pot so I did flip it over and move the igniter back 1/4" as instructions call for when installing, it was all the way to the tip of the angled end so now its basically shielded and hope that was correct , if not I can flip it back over when I go to plug the holes and fix the broken backer.

 

[Sono]

Bought castable refractory cement at ACE hardware, let it dry for two days then cured it in my barbecue grill as it does smell a little when curing. Of course you will use a square center for the 6041, use the broken board as a guide on how big and shape of framing. White sheet on inside of frame is a pellet bag so cement comes out of frame better. You could also make lines on the front of board by laying sticks under plastic. I made a NY Yankees one for a friend, just remember what ever design you use it will be reversed/mirror image on the front of board. Like the wrinkles of plastic you can see on my board.

I actually like the wrinkled look , gives it a natural stone look ( I hate the brick patterns ) too generic

 

[ARC]

If it produces more heat, will it affect any other operations/sensors ?

It produces more heat and does not effect operations or sensors. Plugging them makes less exhaust/heat leak out of the firebox into the exhaust path. The holes are there so you can get a brush behind the firewall to clean. You want to use Electrical Box Plugs they just snap in and when it is time to clean you just pull them out.

The burn pot is stainless steel

The stirrer rod is also stainless steel, if you burn straight corn eventually you will have to replace both the stirrer rod and the pot and venting. Corn exhaust when cooled creates a acid that will harm stainless and steel to include the exhaust vent. Usually 10 year replacement. If you burn straight corn it is a good idea to burn straight pellets at the end of the heating season and then do your end of season cleaning helps reduce damage. First 3 years I burnt straight corn and at the end of the third year I had to replace the stirrer rod one of the ears had been eaten off. Corn took a jump and price and I started burning a 75/25 mixture Pellet/corn, will never go back to straight corn. Still get the great heat from the corn but less cleaning. I have also burnt barley, rye, cherry pits and tried soy beans. Barley and rye burn just a good as corn. Cherry pits burn good but are real noisy going through auger. Soy beans are a big no no to much oil and burn way to hot and dirty

 

[Sono]

It produces more heat and does not effect operations or sensors. Plugging them makes less exhaust/heat leak out of the firebox into the exhaust path. The holes are there so you can get a brush behind the firewall to clean. You want to use Electrical Box Plugs they just snap in and when it is time to clean you just pull them out.


The stirrer rod is also stainless steel, if you burn straight corn eventually you will have to replace both the stirrer rod and the pot and venting. Corn exhaust when cooled creates a acid that will harm stainless and steel to include the exhaust vent. Usually 10 year replacement. If you burn straight corn it is a good idea to burn straight pellets at the end of the heating season and then do your end of season cleaning helps reduce damage. First 3 years I burnt straight corn and at the end of the third year I had to replace the stirrer rod one of the ears had been eaten off. Corn took a jump and price and I started burning a 75/25 mixture Pellet/corn, will never go back to straight corn. Still get the great heat from the corn but less cleaning. I have also burnt barley, rye, cherry pits and tried soy beans. Barley and rye burn just a good as corn. Cherry pits burn good but are real noisy going through auger. Soy beans are a big no no to much oil and burn way to hot and dirty

I myself would probly only burn pellets. I seen the holes were easy to clean behind, wish I knew that sooner as it was a pain trying to clean that packed in ash from those 2 lower covers