Piping Storage

[chuck172]

I have a TarmSolo40, now I'm trying to figure how to cut in my newly aquired 500 gallon propane tank. I ran 1 1/4' copper S&R;'s from the wood boiler to my heating system. Should I use 1 1/4" to the tank or can I get away with 1"? Should I use a zone valve? Who makes full bore 1 1/4" zone valves?

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

Should I use 1 1/4" to the tank or can I get away with 1"?

The size of the pipe will depend upon the length of the run.

Should I use a zone valve? Who makes full bore 1 1/4" zone valves?

Whether you use a valve or a pump (or both) will depend upon the piping design that you are using. Several manufacturers make high-flow zone valves.

Joe

 

[WoodNotOil]

I like the Taco EBV's. They add very little head loss to the system. If you are a primary/secondary hookup, start with nofossil's sticky and post the design you are thinking about using.

 

[chuck172]

According to Pex plumbing supply, the Taco EBV's only go up to 1"
Taco does make a 570 series for $109.00

 

[WoodNotOil]

How long is you pipe run? Maybe 1" will work. I talked to Taco and they said the EBV has the least pressure drop. Zone valves have a very small opening. If you absolutely need 1 1/4", one some earlier threads we discussed ball valves with actuators. I don't know much about them though.

 

[chuck172]

The pipe run from the Mains (Wood boiler to heating zone headers) would be about 20 feet. That's 20 feet from where I'd cut in the tees on the main to the storage tank.
1" would be so much easier and less expensive.
I thought I'd need the 1 1/4 for full btu output.

 

[WoodNotOil]

That is a pretty long ways. I think it would work in 1" with EBV, but what do I know. Hopefully Joe will chime in again.

In nofossil's simplest pressurized... there are no pumps or ZVs on the tank lines. Intead there is a load pump and ZVs for each zone. If you go that route, you could probably still do 1 1/4", unless Joe thinks 1" is fine, then save the money! Better work up a design and post it for feedback, then we can discuss specific components.

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

The pipe run from the Mains (Wood boiler to heating zone headers) would be about 20 feet. That's 20 feet from where I'd cut in the tees on the main to the storage tank.
1" would be so much easier and less expensive.
I thought I'd need the 1 1/4 for full btu output.

What's the purpose of the zone valve in that setup? Unless something is not being shown, you will need a pump, not a valve.

1" would be fine.

Joe

 

[chuck172]

The two branches off the main feed the 500 gallon storage tank. The pump is on the tarm wood boiler. Zone valve closes, tarm supplies the heating zones. Heating zones satisfied, zone valve opens Tarm circulator feeds storage. The Wood boiler will always run when above 140. Either feeding the load or heating the tank.
You say 1" branches off the 1-1/4" main will be sufficient? How about the S&R;lines from the tank to the heating zones. Can I go with 1" there too?

 

[chuck172]

If I pipe the pressurized storage tank with 1" charging the tank and from the tank feeding my heating zones, will 1" carry enough btu's as opposed to 1 1/4"?
Would 1 1/4 create less turbulance in the tank preserving stratification?
I'd love to be able to do it in 1". Big buck saver. But Fall is near and the end is in sight. I don't want to skimp here.

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

What is the heating load of the house?

What sort of heating zones do you have?

Joe

 

[chuck172]

I can't recall the heating load of the house, have to get back to you on that. I have 5 zones including a 40 gallon superstor. All zone valves.