Please Help: Stove question.

[coldak]

First of all, hello and thanks in advance for any replies.
Just wondering if any of the gurus here can provide some insight into my situation. I have a Pacific Energy Super Series stove that I just had an issue with. I’m very mindful of chimney fires, so I clean at least once a month.
Last night, while I was determining that today would be the day I’d clean the stove pipe, I tapped on the pipe with the fire poker absent-mindedly and heard some creosote fall in the pipe. 10 minutes later or so I realized that it probably descended to the bend in the pipe and stuck and that I should probably let the fire die out and deal with it as soon as possible. Right then it sounded like the creosote lit. It wasn’t out of control, as I learned later there wasn’t that much creosote in the pipe (I had cleaned it recently), but I didn’t want to let it get out of control. So I blasted it with a fire extinguisher in the fire box, I did that and then sealed it up. But, the seal rope (its made with asbestos I think), was partially mislaid, as it does sometimes, so the seal wasn’t perfect. I then blasted some into the stove pipe via a small hole that it has (a manufactured one). Then after it was out from what I could tell blasted from the top of the pipe down. I let the stove cool down to inspect what happened.
I thoroughly cleaned the stove pipe, fire box and the surrounding area. The issue that I have, though, is with cleaning the stove. This stove is new to me.
Basically, my current situation is: I took all the pipe apart, so I could reach in to the stove from above, but there isn’t much room, as you may know between the top of the stove and the metal plate (I think it is called the baffle?) I swept my hand all around and was able to scoop out most of the chemical. The baffle sits on these welded rails (I found a diagram here (broken link removed to http://www.pacificenergy.net/pacificenergy/manualarchives/Wood_Archive/Welded) in Brick Rail replacement.pdf . The link function doesn't work for me, sorry!) so you cannot remove it. As I was sweeping out the chemical, it looks like there is a powder substance native to the stove… or at least I don’t think it was from the fire extinguishers… kind of a reddish heavier powder. I was at first concerned with removing all the fine material from the baffle, and all along the crevices of the baffle rails (as I could get to), to get the stove as clean as possible. Then I realized that if it didn’t come from me, then it was there before. So, I made sure I had everything else as clean as possible and reassembled. As it was quite cold, I thought about it (and looked up if sodium bicarbonate in the fire extin. has any weird properties) and lit a small fire. It performed like normal, so I slowly added wood and now have a normal burn going on.
Any advice on what the reddish powder may be and if I am in the clear (well, proceed with caution I guess) or what. I don’t have many options as I am out in the bush of AK and it is getting to be -30 to -40 at night.

Thanks!

To view diagram copy link and replace the Xs with %
(broken link removed to http://www.pacificenergy.net/pacificenergy/manualarchives/Wood_Archive/WeldedX20inX20BrickX20RailX20replacement.pdf)

 

[madison]

Normal color with use.

You can remove the baffle from within the stove body by pulling the retaining pin, lift and tilt and remove the baffle. It is heavy,and easier to remove than replace. There should be a gasket between the baffle and stove.

If you get this far, while the baffle is out, take a shop vac and clean the tube leading up to the baffle as best you can.

Baffle removal instructions on pg 11 of the manual:
(broken link removed to http://www.pacificenergy.net/pacificenergy/pdfs/SUPER-SD1-071111-20.pdf)

 

[coldak]

Great! Thanks for the quick reply!
The only pin that I see is a 90 bent piece of metal in the back of the stove... I assume that is it? I'd hate to start tugging on the wrong thing!

 

[madison]

Yep, and replacement baffle gasket link below
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/59575/

 

[Hogwildz]

If the stove is a new install, hearing creosote fall down when lighting a cold stove is common the first couple months. If it is an older install, and that is regular single wall black stove pipe, what you may be hearing is scaling from the inside of the pipe coming loose and falling down.

 

[snowleopard]

While probably not advisable, before I lived with an EPA stove, I banged on my stovepipe daily, both before and during fires. I just figured if I could gt that stuff to fall off and burn up in the stove, all the better. Not saying you should do that--just saying I did that for years with no problems. I can see why you're concerned, but I don't think you need to worry if you hear some drop.

Also, you might want to keep a chimney-fire extinguisher stick on hand (Chimnex?). It would save some of the drama that you went through. You can also purchase a creosote neutralizer if you want that you burn in your stove, changes the creosote chemically so it turns to ash. Haven't used it yet, but trust the source that recommended it.

 

[firefighterjake]

never use a fire extinguisher in a hot stove the only time to use one is in an absolute emergency room temp liquids hitting 600 degree metal or cast iron causes serious thermo shock

if anything toss in sand and smother the fire

Most fire extinguishers in use by most home owners are ABC dry chemical extinguishers . . . shouldn't be an issue . . . but that said . . . sand or ash is much cheaper . . . then again . . . I usually just ride the storm out if my stove is hot.