please recommend a chainsaw filing system

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This is actually a copy of an Oregon product.

If you need more entertainment after the drill guy, hop over to Amazon and read the reviews of said product. It's interesting reading.

Come for the guy who says it made his bad chain stop falling off, stay for the endless stream of 5 star reviews from actual thrilled customers who say it fix their saw chain so to being perfect every times, more lucky power sharpener best happy life.

I can also wholeheartedly recommend that you read the manufacturer's specifications on the product page. From the intimate design to the safety board and the lovely fixed rivert, there is much to appreciate.

Please also stop to appreciate Sample Lumberjack Man, who is wearing a dress shirt and standing by a house, holding a piece of paper and wearing a hastily photoshopped tool pouch wider than he is. His giant tool pouch of course contains a version of this sharpener that is bigger that his head!

Link to whatever is going on there
 
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"it fix their saw chain so to being perfect every times, more lucky power sharpener best happy life."
 
I got my new grinder bolted down and ground my first chain, a nearly used up one that I had "retired" due to how jacked up it was.

I sharpened it, ground the rakers down, went around again and cleaned out the gullet with the raker wheel, and went around AGAIN and used a file to round off the rakers. It was a little scary how inconsistent I had managed to be with the Pferd... I am definitely not sure how I managed to get such a variety of raker heights across this chain.

As a first-timer, I dinked around a lot and tried stuff, and played with various setups for a spark-sucking shopvac (I got one of those $25 ones that go on a 5 gallon bucket from home depot), and I still may not have spent as long as I would have with the Granberg resurrecting that poor chain.

The chain looks really good to me! Probably won't get to put it on wood until Friday, but I am all excited to do that! I have a few other rocked out, badly filed, (and in one case frozen up) old chains that I am going to rehabilitate for fun and practice. After that I'll tackle the simpler work of sharpening my good chains.

I'll probably start a new thread on grinding Friday... for now, any old grinders out there with feelings on grinding out gullets on semichisel chains? 90° with a square stone, or use the same grind angle and stone you sharpen with?
 
I look forward to having a powered outbuilding for a bench mounted chainsaw grinder.
 
It will be good to hear your progress. I’m surprised to hear you need to mess with gullets with a round grinder. You might experiment and see how they function when you don’t once you get it dialed in. I seen on Amazon they have a decent looking stand if you have the room, makes it nice
 
How can I hook up this Grenberg 12v grinder jig in my workshop not using a car battery? I have a boat portable battery booster but I do not think this will work.
 
Maybe this
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Amazon product ASIN B0002BA570
 
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How can I hook up this Grenberg 12v grinder jig in my workshop not using a car battery? I have a boat portable battery booster but I do not think this will work.
You could use an inverter or use an old 12v battery from a mower, car, etc. and charge it when it dies.
 
It will be good to hear your progress. I’m surprised to hear you need to mess with gullets with a round grinder. You might experiment and see how they function when you don’t once you get it dialed in. I seen on Amazon they have a decent looking stand if you have the room, makes it nice

Just for chip clearance, cleaning up some peaks left by aggressive filing (I must have done a crazy pass or two to try to take a lot off the cutters on one side at some point).

It has bolt holes bottom and back, so if you want it out of the way you can bolt it to pretty much anything you can drill 2 holes in (or lay a piece of 2x8 across).
 
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And what kind of stone do you have that doesn’t need dressing? Heard of a diamond stone but I guess they don’t produce a good chain

I'm using regular pink oregon aluminum oxide stones now, they need dressing.

I have a 3/16 CBN wheel coming. CBN does not need dressing and never changes size or shape. They're supposed to be good for 1000+ chains before you have to recoat or replace them. They cost about 3x an Oregon pink wheel, or 10x a bargain basement wheel.

From what I've read, diamond wheels are meant for carbide chains only. They cut too slow and make too much heat for general use (but also need no dressing). More info here
 
I'm using regular pink oregon aluminum oxide stones now, they need dressing.

I have a 3/16 CBN wheel coming. CBN does not need dressing and never changes size or shape. They're supposed to be good for 1000+ chains before you have to recoat or replace them. They cost about 3x an Oregon pink wheel, or 10x a bargain basement wheel.

From what I've read, diamond wheels are meant for carbide chains only. They cut too slow and make too much heat for general use (but also need no dressing). More info here

Carbide chain sounds interesting. Are they used on the big harvesting machines?
 
Carbide chain sounds interesting. Are they used on the big harvesting machines?

Not sure about the big stuff, but you can get carbide chains for regular saws. They're for dirty applications, ash in the bark, or where the chain needs to go a long time between sharpenings, or applications where you expect to hit metals (fire departments, fenceline felling, etc).

The price you pay is that it's more expensive (2x and up) and you need specialist equipment (diamond grinders) to sharpen it.

That said, a diamond round file is like ten bucks now if you want to hand file it, and a diamond grinder wheel is about the same price as a CBN one. (You need both to do steel and carbide chains, so probably not many firewood cutters have a diamond wheel handy.)

Disclaimer: When I am dispensing grinding wisdom, remember that I am an absolute newbie to this. I've done quite a bit of reading and a little grinding in the last week, though!
 
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Not sure about the big stuff, but you can get carbide chains for regular saws. They're for dirty applications, ash in the bark, or where the chain needs to go a long time between sharpenings, or applications where you expect to hit metals (fire departments, fenceline felling, etc).

The price you pay is that it's more expensive (2x and up) and you need specialist equipment (diamond grinders) to sharpen it.

That said, a diamond round file is like ten bucks now if you want to hand file it, and a diamond grinder wheel is about the same price as a CBN one. (You need both to do steel and carbide chains, so probably not many firewood cutters have a diamond wheel handy.)

Disclaimer: When I am dispensing grinding wisdom, remember that I am an absolute newbie to this. I've done quite a bit of reading and a little grinding in the last week, though!
I've seen some folks say that carbide chains are meant to cut through metal impregnated wood or whole metal structures, but I also read about carbide chains breaking off cutters. I guess there are three different types. According to my *limited* research carbide also can't hold as sharp an edge as steel. This is very interesting to me because a chain that would stay sharp 15 times as long would make my milling operations go much faster. Even just having a nice durable chain that can rip through dirty bark or handle metal fasteners would be great.
 
What type of chain is on a concrete cutting hydraulic/chainsaw ?