Proper operation of an air scoop

[Donl]

I've had an air scoop connected to the boiler for many years now. Not sure I have been using it correctly though.

I have always kept the bleed cap tightened and loosen it from time to time to remove any built up air. Is that correct?

Or should it be left partly open all the time? Or something else?

 

[Bob Rohr]

I've had an air scoop connected to the boiler for many years now. Not sure I have been using it correctly though.

I have always kept the bleed cap tightened and loosen it from time to time to remove any built up air. Is that correct?

Or should it be left partly open all the time? Or something else?

The cap should be left loose so the vent can be an "automatic" device. The cap is there to shut it off if it develops a leak from dirt under the seat, etc. or to air test a system.

Some vent brands can be disassembled and cleaned if they do drip, others need to be replaced. A good option is to add a small service check valve under the vent. This allows them to be removed and serviced or replaced without lowering the system pressure.

Always locate the scoop and vent so if or when they leak they do not damage equipment below them

You can also buy an adapter for some brands to add a small copper tube to the cap to discharge to the floor.

 

[ewdudley]

I've had an air scoop connected to the boiler for many years now. Not sure I have been using it correctly though.

I have always kept the bleed cap tightened and loosen it from time to time to remove any built up air. Is that correct?

Or should it be left partly open all the time? Or something else?

The cap should be loose whenever there is any significant amount of air yet to be removed, then is should be tightened. Periodically in can be loosened to check for air. If a significant amount of air accumulates continuously then there is a problem that needs to be discovered and remedied. If you leave the cap open the vent will fail and make a mess while providing no benefit.

 

[Mushroom Man]

Your post on this subject Don is timely. Mine developed a leak last week. I don't want to address the leak during heating season. When the weather permits, I plan on removing it to repair/replace (as needed). It is a Honeywell Braukmann EA122A Automatic Air Vent. If yours is the same brand, I do have the manual (all 4 pages) and would be happy to read it to you if that would help, or I can scan it and send to you via email.

 

[Donl]

Your post on this subject Don is timely. Mine developed a leak last week. I don't want to address the leak during heating season. When the weather permits, I plan on removing it to repair/replace (as needed). It is a Honeywell Braukmann EA122A Automatic Air Vent. If yours is the same brand, I do have the manual (all 4 pages) and would be happy to read it to you if that would help, or I can scan it and send to you via email.

Hi Tim,

Thanks for the offer. I have a Taco Vortech scoop. It's working fine though.

Since we last talked I have switched over to cast iron radiators. They are great and a big improvement from the forced air heat. Highly recommended!

 

[Mushroom Man]

Hi Tim,

Thanks for the offer. I have a Taco Vortech scoop. It's working fine though.

Since we last talked I have switched over to cast iron radiators. They are great and a big improvement from the forced air heat. Highly recommended!

I am still dreaming of Cast iron rads. They are great and I will be moving that way. I hate hearing the furnace fan.

What temperatures are effective for CI rads? I'd ideally like to run the tank down to 120 degrees. I cannot get the unpressurized storage over 170* because the EPDM liner is not rated for above that temperature.

 

[BoilerMan]

Hi Tim,

Thanks for the offer. I have a Taco Vortech scoop. It's working fine though.

Since we last talked I have switched over to cast iron radiators. They are great and a big improvement from the forced air heat. Highly recommended!

I wish everyone could see the light like you! Low temp is the way to go.

TS

 

[Donl]

I am still dreaming of Cast iron rads. They are great and I will be moving that way. I hate hearing the furnace fan.

What temperatures are effective for CI rads? I'd ideally like to run the tank down to 120 degrees. I cannot get the unpressurized storage over 170* because the EPDM liner is not rated for above that temperature.

I run the temp down to about 117 degrees. With the forced air 140 was as far down I could get useful heat. Before I installed the cast iron rads I did a heat load calculation for each area and oversized the rads so the would work down to the lower temp. I'm happy, but more importantly so is the wife.

 

[Fred61]

The ones in my present system appear to be sealed closed. I have repaired them in the past though. They're really pretty simple. they have a float like a carburator that drops when there is air present which opens a needle valve and allows the air to escape out the top with that space displaced with water.

One that failed on me actually got gummed up by a ball of soldering paste that solidified in the float chamber.

 

[taxidermist]

My vortec started to leak this season. I tightened the cap and i will fix it in the spring.

Rob

 

[dogwood]

On the smaller Watts FV-4 air eliminator vents, the instructions say to keep the cap backed off two turns;
http://media.wattswater.com/ES-FV-4M1.pdf

Mike