Quad Castile install progress

[DexterDay]

Your Feed gate needs to be adjusted per the manual..

Run stove on High with Gate WIDE OPEN. Then close in 1/4" to 1/2" increments,(waiting 10 minutes between adjustment) until flame is 4"-6" above pot.

Its likely the blower isnt kicking on because it isn't reaching temp. My Quad too quite awhile (about 10 minutes to kick on the 1st time this yr)

Start with tye Gate Open all the way. Then back off (On High). Every pellet is different, so adjustment is necessary when pellets are changed.

I only run on Low (Med sometimes) so I keep the Gate Wide open. Keeps Max fuel going to pot, but on a low setting.

If your just gonna run Low (then I would suggest Wide Open) because you Can't overfire the stove on Low.

My 2 pennies.

 

[CenterTree]

So how long does the start up cycle usually take? I had it running on high for good amount of time and the blower never came on.

FYI, my Castile blower comes on about 10 minutes after a cold start. ( I always run it on LOW).
I reserve "MEDIUM" for those extra cold nights. I don't use "HIGH".

Hearth looks good.

 

[BradH70]

All good advice! Thanks everyone for the suggestions and info. I'm going to take the snap disk into work tomorrow and test it. I'm also going to open up the feed gate to get a higher flame on low, which is where I want to run it.

I will post an update tomorrow evening.

Thanks for all the complements as well!

 

[BradH70]

Very nice! And you pleased our local code police. Well done!

You do have a surge suppressor right?

Ohhh yeeessss I do! Just waiting to get the stove sorted out then will add the surge protector.

 

[BradH70]

Ok, so I tested the CF snap disk and it is working. It consistently closed at 128* and then re-open at 109* when cooling down. This seems very high to me and could be why the CF never turned on, even when I had the stove running on high for a short time. Not being familiar with this stove, I got nervous and opened the T-stat terminals to shut the stove down when I realized that the CF was not running.

Tonight's plan:
1. Verify that the stove is clean, clean, clean. Especially behind the fire wall in this area.
2. Run the stove on HIGH for at least 15 minutes and see if the CF comes on (snap disk closes).

If the snap disk does not close:
3. Check the temp right were the snap disk is mounted.
4. Open up the auger feed a little bit to increase flame height and heat.
5. Let stove run for a few minutes.
6. Re-check the temp at the snap disk location.

If the snap disk still does not close:
7. Go back to step 4.

If the snap disk closes:
8. Let stove run for a while (30 - 60 minutes) and verify that CF stays on.

If the snap disk opens:
9. Go back to step 4.

If the snap disk stays closed:
10. Open the T-Stat terminals and let the stove cool.
11. Set stove to LOW heat level.
12. Run the stove for at least 15 minutes and see if the CF comes on (snap disk closes).

If the snap disk does not close:
13. Go back to step 4.

If the snap disk closes:
14. Let stove run for a while (30 - 60 minutes) and verify that CF stays on.

If the snap disk opens:
15. Go back to step 4.

If the snap disk stays closed:
16. Open the T-Stat terminals and let the stove cool.
17. One cooled and shut down, unplug stove and add surge protector.
18. Wait for cold weather.


Now, my next question will be..... What happens if the stove really has to run hard to get the CF snap disk to close? Should I get a new snap disk and hope that it opens at 110* rather then 128*. Or should I get something not OEM but has a lower temperature rating, say 90*?

 

[johnny1720]

It could be just me but I am pretty sure there is a reset on that snap disk you took a photo of. I have seen those used in the past and if the stove is moved to much that reset trips, or if the stove got to hot the disk trips. HTH

 

[DexterDay]

I would just open the feed gate and set it to Low (or Med) and run for 15-20 minutes. Ensure the stove is clean.

Lots of Santa Fe and Castile users here. I know people that have the Santa Fe and it runs on Low quite well. Also some people here have a Mod that allows the CF to run on High, regardless of Heat setting.

That stove should run just fine on Low. (Should).

 

[BradH70]

I checked that the stove is clean and also verified that the feed gate is already wide open (darn!). It ran on LOW for ~42 minutes from a cold start before the area at CF snap disk reached the needed 128*. Then the CF ran for a whopping 3 minutes before it shut off again. WTF!

Something that I noticed is that while it is running, there a slight whistling noise somewhere around the door. Would a bad door gasket cause a slow heat up cycle?

I'm going to switch to Medium heat and see what happens.

 

[BradH70]

Also can somebody tell me what the flame "speed" should look like! It seems like there is a lot of combustion air, it is actually audible, sounds like a wind tunnel at the front of the stove.

I'm running it on medium and the CF is cycling on/off every few minutes.

 

[DexterDay]

The air is a Quad thing. Lots of combustion air to keep pot clean. As for the blower kicking on and off, I haven't a clue.

If I remember correctly, there is different placement of the snap disc on the freestanding and the insert? One is in a better location?

The blower should not be short cycling like that. Stove should just run on whatever given setting and blower should kick on after heating. Does the snap disc make good contact with the area on the stove?

 

[DexterDay]

The whistling is normal. That the vortex burn of a Quad. Lots of burn air.
This is a video of my Classic Bay on Low (no sound sorry, but its whistling) at 1:20 on the vid, you see why a Quad pot stays clean, just by burn air. There is no way to cut it back. Its designed to burn like that...

Nothing burns like a Quad!

 

[Countryboymo]

Even with crummy pellets mine will run the fan on low constantly once it is activated. I would change that disk out. I think most of the time mine is on before the stove kicks down to low or medium from startup. Your disk is slow and I would replace it with a 90 or go back to the stock 120.

BTW mine is a stock temp.

 

[DexterDay]

Here is one from tonight (going to bed). Turn up the sound and you can hear the whistle.

Then you can hear me run it through the heat settings. Low, to Med, then High, and then back down to Low again.

Terrible video on my Phone. But its the quickest way to get a video to YouTube.

 

[BradH70]

Here is one from tonight (going to bed). Turn up the sound and you can hear the whistle.

Then you can hear me run it through the heat settings. Low, to Med, then High, and then back down to Low again.

Terrible video on my Phone. But its the quickest way to get a video to YouTube.

Thanks for the video Dexter This just about how mine sounds, so I guess no worries on leaky gaskets at this point.

 

[BradH70]

Even with crummy pellets mine will run the fan on low constantly once it is activated. I would change that disk out. I think most of the time mine is on before the stove kicks down to low or medium from startup. Your disk is slow and I would replace it with a 90 or go back to the stock 120.

BTW mine is a stock temp.

Thanks countryboy. I picked up a new snap disk from the local Quad dealer and will give it a test this Saturday, if not sooner.

I will post the results as I get them.

Thanks again to everyone for that advice.

 

[BradH70]

Update.....

I installed the new snap disc and using a digital temp meter verified that it closes at exactly 110*. I initially started the stove cold and on low heat. It took about 20 minutes to reach 110* at which point the CF came on. The problem is that when he CF came on, the temp at the snap disk cooled down enough to cycle the CF. I switch the stove to medium heat and it ran fine.

The heat coming out of the convection tubes is not super hot but on medium heat it was enough to raise the room tmp 6* in about an hour, including the 20 minutes it took to get the CF running.

I'm using NEWP in the stove right now. Any suggestions on what I could do to get the heat up?

 

[DexterDay]

NEWP's are Green Supreme's..... They are not the greatest/hottest pellet around.

Do you have any other pellets?

Even though that shouldn't matter. I burned 20 bags of GS last season (my Quad is slightly larger) and had Zero problems. I only burn on Low (90% of the time).

 

[BradH70]

Is it possible that a bad thermocouple could cause the stove to run cool?

If I move the ceramic thermocouple cover to far back, the stove shuts down. It probably thinks there is no fuel/fire. Should the ceramic cover be attached to the thermocouple?

 

[DexterDay]

Is it possible that a bad thermocouple could cause the stove to run cool?

If I move the ceramic thermocouple cover to far back, the stove shuts down. It probably thinks there is no fuel/fire. Should the ceramic cover be attached to the thermocouple?

The Thermocouple on senses temp and tells the stove to go into normal run mode.

The thermocouple tip needs to be touching the end/inside of the ceramic cover and the coblver needs to stick out, into the pot about an inch (actual inside wall) or about 2" from the edge of pot.

I stick mine out pretty far so its senses temp. But thats all that it controls. The Thermocouple doesn't actually tell the blowers anything. It has nothing to do with it.

Im pretty sure there os an old thread that talks about moving the snap disc. B-Mod or Tnjmatiw (I think thats how it is?) Know a lot about the mods of the Santa Fe/Castile. Although my stove thinls just like yours, its a little bigger and snap discs are located differently. I know its trivial, but have you tried another pellet. NEWP's amd Green Supreme's are not the hottest pellet? Not that it should matter. But maybe...?? People have probably burned worse in one... But...

 

[BradH70]

Thanks dex, but the odd thing is is that I have the ceramic cover placed as you said it should the stove will not complete it's start up, it goes into shutdown mode after about 10 minutes. I had to slide the cover so that it is as far into the burn pot as possible without falling and in that position the tip of the thermocouple is no where near touching the end of the ceramic cover. Also, how tightly clamped should the cover be? Mine slides pretty easily.

 

[BradH70]

Ohh and yes, I have some other pellets to try. I figured I would use up my last bag of NEWP's getting to know the new stove but I guess that might not have been a good idea.

I have MWP blend and LG's premium.

 

[DexterDay]

The cover will sit loose. Thats o.k.... Try and get some slack from the T/C either within the firebox or follow it to the back of the stove. Thee should be some slack back there. Be gentle with it.

Also, the tip must make contact. Otherwise you are relying on radiant heat from the ceramic cover. It needs to touch so the T/C can read an accurate temp. It only reads 2 temps. 250° and 500° or 300° and 600° (or a combination of those/250° and 600°).

I would send B-Mod or Tjnamtiw a PM asking if they have done the Mod or remember. Also member Czech may know also. The Santa Fe/Castile is basically the same stove, but different shell...

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Brad,

Dexter is correct in that the t/c has to touch the ceramic cover. Then you see how far into pot it fits.

 

[BradH70]

Ok, I will see if I can get some slack out of the thermocouple wire. The way it is now, if the end of the ceramic cover is making contact with the tip of the thermocouple the stove does not finish the start up cycle. This is most likely because the cover does not extend far enough out into the burn pot and does not come up to the proper temperature in time.

Thanks again for you help!

 

[tjnamtiw]

The guys have really jumped on this one! I guess it's burn season and everyone is out of hibernation. DexterDay and several others, as they said, open the feed all the way and keep the stove on low. What that gets you is max feed, albeit for shorter time each cycle, lower combustion air and lower circulating air. That keeps the noise down but I just went by the book. As suggested already, set your flame height AVERAGE to 4-6" on HIGH and then you can lower the temp setting.
That being said, with you cycling on and off on your circulating fan, you seem to have a feed problem either from extra long pellets, something obstructing the auger or a problem with the auger motor. Quads are notorious for having their feed motors occasionally running backwards, which screws up your feed. Usually this is with older stoves. I don't remember anyone having the problem with a new one; however, the fix is a cheap one. Your dealer should have a 'capacitor jumper' that you can put between the auger motor and the wiring going to it. Simple unplug and insert it.
I had a feed problem with one of mine right out of the box. An aluminum warning plate in the pellet hopper fell off and jambed in the auger at the top of the chute, restricting flow. I also had a couple of plastic 'peanuts' up there as well. An inspection mirror and a flashlight shining up the chute should show if anything is up there besides the auger.
We all cannot stress ENOUGH that the thermocouple MUST contact the end of the ceramic tube. From what I've seen, the actual length into the pot is not all that critical. Just get the contact! In my case, the ceramic covers stick out 1 1/2" from the top inside edge of the pot, FYI.
Oh, I also had a 'Hot Wheel' sitting at the feed plate opening once so ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE!
You should see a red light come on in the control box at 200 degrees. This tells the auger motor to start cycling. At 600, the green light comes on and shuts off the igniter if it hasn't shut off already on its timer. On LOW, sometimes I will see it drop back to just the red light, as there isn't enough heat.
As far as mods go, B-MOD suggested the simple rewire to keep the fan on high all the time. I also posted on that along with a drawing. I also relocated the circulating fan snap disc on my INSERT up to the top corner where I found that the temperature got hotter sooner so that I could extract more heat. That's is several posts as well. Finally, several of us have increased the heat transfer by inserting springs and turbulators inside of the old fashioned smooth tubes for better heat transfer. Again, search for 'turbulator'. I would NOT even think about ANY of these mods until you can get your stove working properly.