Radiant/Wood/Oil Heat Question

[mtnxtreme]

After researching from OWB to indoor boilers, I settled on a combo oil ( maybe gas)/wood boiler (possibly 2 separate units depending on price) in my basement running radiant heat. I know I'm still a little undecided, but definetely in the basement. So here's my question, we are breaking ground in few weeks, since my unit will be in the basement, and putting out it's own radiant heat, should I install tubes in the concrete basement floor along with the 1st and 2nd floor systems , or just take advantage of the boilers heat for basemnt with radiant tubing in the 1st and 2nd floor systems?

 

[Nofossil]

After researching from OWB to indoor boilers, I settled on a combo oil ( maybe gas)/wood boiler (possibly 2 separate units depending on price) in my basement running radiant heat. I know I'm still a little undecided, but definetely in the basement. So here's my question, we are breaking ground in few weeks, since my unit will be in the basement, and putting out it's own radiant heat, should I install tubes in the concrete basement floor along with the 1st and 2nd floor systems , or just take advantage of the boilers heat for basemnt with radiant tubing in the 1st and 2nd floor systems?

Unless you have a tiny basement and don't intend to have an enclosed boiler room, I'd put coils in the basement floor. I think there's merit in having the boiler in its own room to contain the wood mess and ash dust. I'm set up that way and it's great. I have a wood boiler and an oil boiler sitting next to each other, plumbed in parallel. I'm replacing the oil boiler with a tankless direct vent propane water heater.

Combo units seem less efficient and if either part has problems you have to replace the whole thing. Others may have different perspectives.

 

[mtnxtreme]

Thats what I thought, and now's the time to do it, while building. I'm kinda leaning towards a separate gasification wood boiler to get started, leaving some valved stubs to tie in a propane unit as a backup with a direct vent out the foundation, does anyone have any reccomendations on running loops under concrete and who's got the most efficient wood boiler??

 

[Bob Rohr]

If the basement will ever be used as living space, radiant sure is ideal. Don't forget underslab and edge insulation.

Pex in concrete also makes for a good dump zone for rare but potential over heat conditions.

hr

 

[Chris S]

In my home, we ran radiant in the slab, and finished only 1/2 of it which had a door & windows. the space became a bedroom, bathroom & 800 s.f playroom. A ran the radiant at 80 degrees.
The unfinished portion of the basement has tubing in it, but I never connected it as it is tropical in there without any heat. That part of the house is below grade ( ICF walls) and contains a the boiler ( in a seperate room)
My point is this... make sure you can seperate it into zones. Just as we often go with wider spacing as we get away from the high heat-loss areas, as you get closer to the boiler ( & below grade) there won't be much need for heat. Were I to finish off the remainder ( exercise room, office, whatever) a warm floor would be nice, but the btu load required would be quite small
Chris

 

[mtnxtreme]

Well, it's gonna be 1 big open basement with garage doors on 1 side, the other 3 walls will be below grade. It's gonna be a garage/workshop/workout room. We have a couple of old Pontiac GTO's and I want a heated storage/ tinkering area for them. My boiler will be at the far end below grade wall. I don't think I should zone it, but should we widen the spacing as we get away from the garage doors., and what abt. below slab insulation, is it worth the extra work, if so how much are we talking, and will the concrete be any weaker with that?

 

[Chris S]

I would definitely set it up so that you could split it up into zones if you want to. As for insulation- just as with the rest of the house you must do this, or you will be putting lot of btus into the ground. As a minimum use insultarp ( the actual R value of this under concrete is low, but better than nothing) dow styrofoam is much better, and in either case the actual weight of the concrete ( and your muscle cars) is not going to rush the insulation.

 

[mtnxtreme]

So , basically, gravel, insulation, then wire, with the tubes tied to the wire. When you say Dow Styrofoam, white, pink, or blue??

 

[Chris S]

pink or blue- R- value of 10 would be great- the white has a very low r value. Don't forget a thermal break at the edges too. This can be minimally an expansion joint, but 1" foam is better
Chris

 

[Willman]

We have a couple of old Pontiac GTO’s and I want a heated storage/ tinkering area for them.

I would strongly suggest a code approved fire wall and exterior door between gas tanks in cars and welding tanks and a flame source. Especially in a home. This would require a separate zone for shop.
Also think about vapor/moisture barrier under foam if it is wet. 4 in. foam board is required in Germany under all slab radiant. The Schluter building in New York is done the same way. Check out ICF's for foundation, then you would only have to insulate the footing sides and top. Remember heat always seeks out cold and is very efficient in that matter.

 

[Jersey Bill]

if its getting inspected, you cannot install a solid fuel appliance in a garage.
From NFPA211- 12.2.4 "solid fuel-burning appliances shall not be installed in any garage"
Nor would I recomend it.

 

[mtnxtreme]

Yes I think it will be a good idea to install a separate boiler room with an outside air vent, and there will be no welding tanks in there, it's basiaclly for clean storage, washing , waxing etc. I have an outside garage for dirty work. Anyone have any ideas on whats the best tubing under concrete, and spacing etc.

 

[mtnxtreme]

Anyone ever heard of "The Barrier" insulation vapor barrier, (broken link removed) for under the concrete with my radiant floor. It is more expensive than 1" Dow, but cheaper than 2", anyone use it, is it any good??