Re assembling cemented stove

[D. Hermit]

So Ive been restoring stoves a bit, but tomorrow I am re assembling a stove completely that I broke down. Its a pretty simple stove, Jotul F602n or cb, and I cleaned all the parts up and got rid of the old cement. I got a couple tubes of the cement to fit in the caulk gun, but wondering if you had some tips and suggestions for when I tackle this.

 

[begreen]

Once you have retapped all the bolt holes (if any broke off) and wirebrushed down the edges to clean out any old cement, the assembly is easy. Have a helper on hand or in lieu of that have a couple of ratchet straps handy to temporarily hold the sides in place. It helps to do a dry run first without cement so that the assembly order makes sense.

If it was removed, bolt in the bottom burn plate with the insulation underneath. Caulk the base perimeter seam with the stove cement first, be generous. Then cement the back, side, and front edges and assemble having your helper keep the pieces vertical or use a ratchet strap or two. There should be cement oozing out of each seam. Bolt down the sides. Then hang the side burn plates and baffle, no cement needed, they should fit snugly. Then cement the top edges and set the top on. Bolt down. Scrape off the excess ooze on the exterior of the stove. Take a damp rag and wipe down the exterior edges and clean off any cement. Be thorough. Let the cement cure per package instructions. Do a couple of small break-in fires to drive any moisture out of the cement.

 

[D. Hermit]

Thanks so much! Ill try to remember to post updates.

 

[begreen]

Take pics too. It's a super easy stove for a rebuild. I had ours apart, drilled and reassembled in about 2.5 hrs.

 

[D. Hermit]

I will take some pics! I have another F602cb in the lineup todo that I havnt even touched yet, so I can refer right to that pretty easily. I didnt get much shop time in today, but I did get the back burn plate attached and cemented and bolted into the baffle/air chamber so that will be dry and easier to work with tomorrow.im debating weather to try and put the floorburn plates and side plates in while I cement the stove, but I almost think it will be easier to just get that back in as if you were just removing and replacing burn plate, just wedge the floor up in the middle and slide the plates up and in.

 

[D. Hermit]

Re cementing a stove I am restoring, jotul f602cb. Completely apart and putting back together, so I got the jist of cementing, but is there a trick to curing it without actually taking the time to hook the stove up and start a fire, or dragging the stove outside mid winter? Needs to be gradually heated to 500 to cure the cement as per instructions on rutland stove cement. Maybe something like point a salamander heater into the firebox maybe and keep an eye on the temps?
Thanks
Hermit

 

[peakbagger]

I think the approach is to just start very small fires and letting them go out, then restarting them to gradually riase the temp up. Part of what you are doing is driving out the moisture from the cement. If the moisture boils it expands and will break the refractory.

 

[PA Mountain Man]

I think the approach is to just start very small fires and letting them go out, then restarting them to gradually riase the temp up. Part of what you are doing is driving out the moisture from the cement. If the moisture boils it expands and will break the refractory.

Do this^^^^^
A salamander is direct fired and actually puts a lot of moisture into the air.
An electric heater would be better. Keep the draft open.

 

[begreen]

Why not just hook the stove up to a proper flue? Is the hearth area not ready? If not, let it sit at room temp until you are ready to hook it up. Then do the break-in fires as described.

 

[D. Hermit]

Why not just hook the stove up to a proper flue? Is the hearth area not ready? If not, let it sit at room temp until you are ready to hook it up. Then do the break-in fires as described.

I restore stoves BeGreen, if I have to hook up and run every stove it just takes too much effort tbh. Ill do it if I absolutely have too, but looking for other people who restore multiple stoves a month/week, and see if they have found a eaiser way to add gradual heat without hooking it up to a flue to cure it.
Thanks
Hermit

 

[peakbagger]

Well that is a different story. There are high temperature resistance heaters used for weld prep. Just throw an insulating blanket over the stove, set the heater to a setpoint and then ramp up. I do not have a source for them as its specialty device but I expect googling it will eventually lead you out of the rabbit hole.

 

[D. Hermit]

Got it all together today. The cementing went very smooth really. Made sure to get the back burn plate which is the path for secondary air cemented in as well. What didnt go smooth is replacing the side burnplates and floor burn plates. The sides were after market from rocky mountain, ended up needed to grind 1/8 in almost off it and 1/16in off the center of the floor plates to get it all to fit. But its good for paint tomorrow and then list it. Thanks for the help BG!!
Hermit

 

[begreen]

Looks like it's missing the bottom burn plate. This is essential. Did that get installed?

 

[begreen]

I restore stoves BeGreen, if I have to hook up and run every stove it just takes too much effort tbh. Ill do it if I absolutely have too, but looking for other people who restore multiple stoves a month/week, and see if they have found a eaiser way to add gradual heat without hooking it up to a flue to cure it.
Thanks
Hermit

I would just have a 6" flue ready for this.

 

[D. Hermit]

Looks like it's missing the bottom burn plate. This is essential. Did that get installed?

Check the forth picture, they are in there. I had to trim 1/16in off the inside center of both plates to get them to fit in correctly w the floor blanket and new burn plates.

 

[D. Hermit]

I would just have a 6" flue ready for this.

Yea thats the direction I will most likely go. Most stoves I dont think will be an issue, they normally sell within the first 48hrs, but im planning on getting a bunch done this summer for the start of next winter.

 

[D. Hermit]

Well its all done and came out
Beautiful. Listed it and letting whoever buys know they need to light it up with a slow burn the first few times to cure everything.

 

[coaly]

What? Who needs a flue? I do these all the time.



You just have to give it enough air! (cough)

 

[D. Hermit]

What? Who needs a flue? I do these all the time.

View attachment 275323

You just have to give it enough air! (cough)

View attachment 275321

Thats one way to do it

 

[begreen]

The stove looks good DH. It should be ready for many years service. Was the stove paint metallic black?

 

[D. Hermit]

The stove looks good DH. It should be ready for many years service. Was the stove paint metallic black?

I recently switched to Thurmalox and love it. This is satin black.

 

[MR. GLO]

Well its all done and came out
Beautiful. Listed it and letting whoever buys know they need to light it up with a slow burn the first few times to cure everything.

Very nice. What the difference between the cb and v2 model?
And did you gasket the top of the glass? They manual say not gasketed.

 

[D. Hermit]

Very nice. What the difference between the cb and v2 model?
And did you gasket the top of the glass? They manual say not gasketed.

I dont know off the top of my head the difference between the v2 and cb. Not much i sure ha. And this glass gasket was a PAIN, It was so vague really. Both f602s i got the glass came in loose, i was told by one person it was supposed to be a little loose, and ended up calling my local jotul dealer and he went onto the floor to unscrew and show me the gaskets on the floor model. and didnt mention the flat gasket on that bottom piece, and the glass gasket goes around those three sides, and then wraps 1/2in around the onto the top surface of the glass under the air wash on the top, whens its all done right its a perfect tight fit. Just wish it was clearer in the manual ha

 

[begreen]

Very nice. What the difference between the cb and v2 model?

They added a flame turbulator on top of the baffle.