Real problem with the Chevy one ton, any chevy mechanics here?

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Dune

Dune

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jan 14, 2008
3,145
Commonwealth Of Massachussetts
www.irondesign-ne.com
Hey folks, in my ongoing effort to maintain my hauler, I decided to re-do the front brakes this weekend. Before I changed them, I noticed that they seemed to be dragging a little. The calipers didn't want to return, even with a fine thread c-clamp, so I figured they were corroded and bought new ones. I also replaced the rotors, pads, wheel bearings, races and seals. I scraped the caliper slides free of rust and greased the slide area. Installing the hubs, I tightened the nuts till there was the slightest bit of noticable drag, then backed them off a quarter turn. I bled both sides twice, and bled the thingy under the master cylinder. I drove to the auto parts store, and after the first time I hit the brakes they seem to drag. Dragging was getting worse on the way back. Jacked it up and wheels won't turn.
After it cooled down, wheels moved freely again. Took the calipers off, pumped them out a little, then tried to return them with the c-clamp. No such luck.
The truck is an 88 3500 2WD, auto. There is some device next to the master cylinder, with 11 wires coming out of it, and the brake lines go through it too. I think this might be the problem, but I have no idea. If anyone can help me it would be greatly apreciated.
 
anti lock brake controller I'm guessing.
 
Not a pro wrench, but... I've heard that you can have problems unless using the special silicone brake grease on the moving parts (I know you can get it at NAPA) I have also heard of people having problems with either the master cylinder or the vac power brake booster keeping the master cylinder from coming back all the way to take the pressure off the wheel cylinders and allow them to pull back... Once they start dragging, they heat up the fluid causing it to expand and making the problem worse... Not sure what that other device you mentioned is (unless possibly some sort of anti-lock, or a trailer brake controller?) but it would seem more likely to me that the master cylinder or the booster would be the problem area.

Gooserider
 
If you pump them slightly and try to conpress with the C clamp, see if they release when you crack the bleeder valve. If they do them it's not the caliper, maybe the proportioning valve is sticking or clogged. Are both sides doing it?

1st post
 
To compress a caliper you need to open the bleed port on the caliper as you apply pressure with the clamp. If you don't then you are forcing the pressure back to the master cylinder and the best thing that will happen to you then is a mess of brake fluid leaked out under the hood.

I am not sure if that pressure would damage the anti-lock control box or not. I don't think it should.
 
I got the new rubber brake lines but when I tried to test it again, I blew a steel line going to the back wheels, so now I have to get that and change it before I know anything.
Thanks for the help folks.
 
BrotherBart said:
To compress a caliper you need to open the bleed port on the caliper as you apply pressure with the clamp. If you don't then you are forcing the pressure back to the master cylinder and the best thing that will happen to you then is a mess of brake fluid leaked out under the hood.

I am not sure if that pressure would damage the anti-lock control box or not. I don't think it should.
Click to expand...

I've always compressed the calipers with a clamp, if I was just replacing the pads, except on some models where the caliper rotates. Never had a problem blowing through the master cylinder, and saves having to bleed the brakes.
 
Dunebilly said:
BrotherBart said:
To compress a caliper you need to open the bleed port on the caliper as you apply pressure with the clamp. If you don't then you are forcing the pressure back to the master cylinder and the best thing that will happen to you then is a mess of brake fluid leaked out under the hood.

I am not sure if that pressure would damage the anti-lock control box or not. I don't think it should.
Click to expand...

I've always compressed the calipers with a clamp, if I was just replacing the pads, except on some models where the caliper rotates. Never had a problem blowing through the master cylinder, and saves having to bleed the brakes.
Click to expand...

Must not have been adding fluid to the master cylinder as it went down as the pads wore then. Fill it before you do it next time.
 
BrotherBart said:
Dunebilly said:
BrotherBart said:
To compress a caliper you need to open the bleed port on the caliper as you apply pressure with the clamp. If you don't then you are forcing the pressure back to the master cylinder and the best thing that will happen to you then is a mess of brake fluid leaked out under the hood.

I am not sure if that pressure would damage the anti-lock control box or not. I don't think it should.
Click to expand...

I've always compressed the calipers with a clamp, if I was just replacing the pads, except on some models where the caliper rotates. Never had a problem blowing through the master cylinder, and saves having to bleed the brakes.
Click to expand...

"Must not have been adding fluid to the master cylinder as it went down as the pads wore then. Fill it before you do it next time.
Click to expand...
"I’ve always compressed the calipers with a clamp, if I was just replacing the pads, except on some models where the caliper rotates. Never had a problem blowing through the master cylinder, and saves having to bleed the brakes. "

That is what I do. I remove some fluid from the MC with a suction bulb.
That way there is no bleeding brakes
 
Thanks for the help guys and Pook. Turns out it was the front brake hoses. Learn something new everyday.
 
For completeness, let me say that, anytime you compress the brake pistons with a C-clamp, you should open the bleeder screw, and let the fluid be expelled. This keeps the dirty, overheated brake fluid which has been sitting in the caliper out of the system, instead of forcing it to mix with the relatively better-preserved brake fluid elsewhere in the lines. If you do it right, you won't need to bleed the lines at all.
 
dave11 said:
For completeness, let me say that, anytime you compress the brake pistons with a C-clamp, you should open the bleeder screw, and let the fluid be expelled. This keeps the dirty, overheated brake fluid which has been sitting in the caliper out of the system, instead of forcing it to mix with the relatively better-preserved brake fluid elsewhere in the lines. If you do it right, you won't need to bleed the lines at all.
Click to expand...

Learned two thingsn today.
 
Sounds like you have it figured out, so that's good. I do know I had a similiar problem a while back, turns out the auto parts store gave me the wrong rotors. At first I thought they were just 'seating' a bit, but after a few weeks it didn't improve. At least they replaced the rotors no charge.
 
Put 70 trouble free miles on the old girl today. Now I just have to fix the exhaust, the rocker panel, the pasenger mirror, and the back brakes, and I can pass yearly inspection again. By the end of July.
 
Dunebilly said:
Put 70 trouble free miles on the old girl today. Now I just have to fix the exhaust, the rocker panel, the pasenger mirror, and the back brakes, and I can pass yearly inspection again. By the end of July.
Click to expand...

And we here in Calif. think that biennieal smog inspections are a pain. Sheesh.

Peace,
- Sesquoai
 
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