Replacing a 12 Year Old Pellet Stove - Suggestions

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Force58

Force58

Member
Dec 25, 2016
21
Stafford, Va
I'm replacing a 12 year old Quadra-Fire 1200i insert as it's broken down twice over the past 2 seasons and the costs are starting to add up. The first to go was the auger motor, coupled with the feed control sensor.

Then this year the convection blower died and the electrical feed from the power connection to the control box and the control box itself need to be replaced.

I've narrowed my search down to these 3. Has anybody had any issues with these? Is there anything I need to look out for when picking one over the other?

Harman Accentra 52i-TC

Quadra-Fire Mt Vernon AE

Quadra-Fire Mt Vernon E2

Thanks in advance
 
With all that money invested now is it worth it yo ditch It?

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
Hell its just broke in. I would just clean up the stove put all new oem parts in it and run it another 12 years. (Still cheaper than a new stove)
 
ditto, you can buy a lot of parts for the 4 grand or more that you would spend on any of those stoves
 
Force58 said:
I'm replacing a 12 year old Quadra-Fire 1200i insert as it's broken down twice over the past 2 seasons and the costs are starting to add up. The first to go was the auger motor, coupled with the feed control sensor.

Then this year the convection blower died and the electrical feed from the power connection to the control box and the control box itself need to be replaced.

I've narrowed my search down to these 3. Has anybody had any issues with these? Is there anything I need to look out for when picking one over the other?

Harman Accentra 52i-TC

Quadra-Fire Mt Vernon AE

Quadra-Fire Mt Vernon E2

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
In reality you have most of the parts bought for your old one. I would finish buying parts for it rather then dump 4 grand into a new one unless you need more btus. You also will have the fun of learning how to run a different stove.
 
rona said:
In reality you have most of the parts bought for your old one. I would finish buying parts for it rather then dump 4 grand into a new one unless you need more btus. You also will have the fun of learning how to run a different stove.
Click to expand...

Hi Rona. As it turns out I'm still keeping the 1200i but I'm more than likely upgrading to the Mount Vernon E2 as I do need more BTU's for our heating space. I also don't like the idea of having to keep paying for repair and parts bills on the 1200i. I'm going to replace the parts I think are broke and then use it when I need it in the basement.

Oh, FYI, the price tag for either the Harmon or Quadra-Fire I was looking at was just a bit over $6k turnkey installed at my house. Insane, huh!
 
Too bad you need more btu's as you could buy another 1200, and then have parts to swap around and do your own testing and servicing. kap
 
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kappel15 said:
Too bad you need more btu's as you could buy another 1200, and then have parts to swap around and do your own testing and servicing. kap
Click to expand...
I don't like how the 1200i is put together after comparing it to the more modern stoves I've seen. It has served me well, that's for sure, but I feel its time to upgrade. We'll see how it goes, if I can get the 1200i working again I still might sell it and recoup a bit of what I'm spending on the new stove.
 
I like the Enviro but it is all I have ever had
Easy to clean ,operate and repair
But we both Know that you will buy what the Better Half likes
Happy wife happy LIFE
 
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Well, there's an end to this story, at least for a few years, hopefully.

After over a month of researching and watching pellet stoves burn I bought and had installed a Quadra-Fire Mount Vernon AE insert.

I've only had it since last Sunday buts its been full steam since then with night temps in the 30's. Love it so far. It's so much better put together than my 1200i and I like the fact that I don't have to open it up to push any buttons with everything controlled via the external thermostat.

It's in manual mode right now keeping a constant temp just to see what kind of heat it'll put out. Eventually I'll try it in auto mode. I also like the fact that, at least the dealer I used, required an exhaust pipe from the stove to the top of the chimney.

So far so good and hope it continues that way.
 
enjoy the heat
Keep it clean
It will last you for a long time
Congrats
 
Congrats. Make sure to read the manual for stove and wall control cover to cover, so you know your stove. It will tell you about running on manual compared to auto. Only downside to this stove, is parts are expensive. Make sure you have a surge protector, and I would get the new igniter wire harness with inline fuses, if it doesn't have it. Stay warm. kap
 
What kap said. Buy a good surge protector that has a warranty on it. Also might want to run a humidifier with that unit as the static electricity from the dry heat in the middle of winter can build up in the system and cause the wall control to act up. You’ll also need to get or make a small hose adapter for your ashvac to clean out the air passageways on the bottom back when you take the baffle out. Good luck.
 
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Overfireinthehole said:
What kap said. Buy a good surge protector that has a warranty on it. Also might want to run a humidifier with that unit as the static electricity from the dry heat in the middle of winter can build up in the system and cause the wall control to act up. You’ll also need to get or make a small hose adapter for your ashvac to clean out the air passageways on the bottom back when you take the baffle out. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Yep, the install team noted the 2 air passageways and that I'd need either a small brush or something to clean them out. A surge protector is a great idea.
 
kappel15 said:
Congrats. Make sure to read the manual for stove and wall control cover to cover, so you know your stove. It will tell you about running on manual compared to auto. Only downside to this stove, is parts are expensive. Make sure you have a surge protector, and I would get the new igniter wire harness with inline fuses, if it doesn't have it. Stay warm. kap
Click to expand...
Thanks Kap. I'm experimenting now with auto vs manual. Auto seems to suck the pellets down that's for sure! I'm going to have to check the ignitor to see if it has inline fuses. Didn't know about those.
 
Force58 said:
Thanks Kap. I'm experimenting now with auto vs manual. Auto seems to suck the pellets down that's for sure! I'm going to have to check the ignitor to see if it has inline fuses. Didn't know about those.
Click to expand...
If it was new, it should have had the inline fuses and the black wire 300w igniter. They originally launched that stove with their standard 380w but those only lasted a couple years on that unit.
 
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Yep I confirmed it has the 300w igniter installed. The 380w igniter is in the accessory bag for use when burning multi-fuels. The igniters both have the inline fuses as well.
 
This doesn't make sense. The inline fuse harness is what the igniter plugs into. Should only be one, that is already installed on the stove. Unless you have two of them? kap
 
I went back for a closer look and I mistook the connectors themselves for the inline fuses. This is a pic of the 380w igniter they provided. When I clean the stove next week I'll see if I can find the igniter that's installed on the stove to get my eyes on the fuses. I checked the manual and there's no mention of fuses anywhere, sad.
 
Take your right side panel off and you will see your igniter wires and firepot thermocouple wire coming out a small hole. The igniter wires will connect to wire harness right there. You will be able to see if there are white plastic fuse holders on the wire harness right by the igniter wires. kap
 
kappel15 said:
Take your right side panel off and you will see your igniter wires and firepot thermocouple wire coming out a small hole. The igniter wires will connect to wire harness right there. You will be able to see if there are white plastic fuse holders on the wire harness right by the igniter wires. kap
Click to expand...

Found it. It's even labeled "igniter", hahaha, miracles never cease. Would that fuse blow if power were interrupted or if the igniter itself developed a fault? We're buying the surge protector today so hopefully that'll protect it at least a little bit.

Oh, and thanks for all the help Kap, I wish I had known about this site when I had initially gotten the 1200i.
 
Well, you hope those blow instead of the one inside the control board, which you have to take off and open up to replace. And a surge protector is always a must. And one thing to watch for is the white molex connector on the control board from the power supply. It is the AC power for the igniter. If it starts turning brown, it is time to replace it, before it toasts the control board. kap
 
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