Rika / Austroflamm Premio and Visio Pellet Stoves

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luckydist

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For owners who’ve had unresolved air-flow related errors or problems with their Rika / Austroflamm Premio or Visio stoves (ER3, ER4, Blinking Display, ER0/CL, ERR/CL, unexplained shutdown due to air flow problems) there is the potential for an air leak on the underside of the hopper.

You must remove the left and right rear side panels of the stove to determine if the condition exists. See the attached document for images of the area in question.

The specific area is the black cast iron box/housing containing the auger shaft where it comes in contact with the sheet metal surface on the underside of the hopper. The most likely place for the leak, if it exists, is at the top of the housing closest to the firewall. Although it's difficult to see in the images, there is a gap where these two surfaces don't meet flush, and there is no gasket between the two surfaces to ensure a sealed fit.

If this condition exists, there is an inward draw pulling the air through the gap This allows too much air to be introduced past the burn pot. There is a high probability that this would cause air flow problems. Any air leaking in this area is not registered by the air flow sensor, so the sensor would have a difficulty regulating proper air flow as it attempts to compensate for the leak.

If this condition is found, the solution is to use hi-temp silicone to seal the two surfaces together and stop the leak. For cosmetic purposes, we recommend using black silicone, but red silicone is acceptable. For safety purposes, the silicone must be suitable for use with a hearth appliance, with a minimum 600° temperature rating.
 

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Thanks very much for this info. I have a 1 year old Integra free standing that had the ERR3 issue the first day, right after I turned it down after the installer left. I changed the fuel rate, and that helped a little. Finally, my dealer admitted to having the same problem with their floor model and they made an adjustment to the air flow sensor, which the tech came out and adjusted mine. I eliminated the ERR3 codes, but the stove never really ran right. I've had to adjust the convection blower output, and the glass is always sooted up. My mid 90's Integra insert runs cleaner and better. I am waiting for a replacement combustion blower (noisy bearing), and when I get that, I will check for the air leak.

If I find the air leak, and seal it, what should I do about the adjustment the that was made to my air flow sensor? I do not remember which direction, or how much it was adjusted.
 
Thanks very much for this info. I have a 1 year old Integra free standing that had the ERR3 issue the first day, right after I turned it down after the installer left. I changed the fuel rate, and that helped a little. Finally, my dealer admitted to having the same problem with their floor model and they made an adjustment to the air flow sensor, which the tech came out and adjusted mine. I eliminated the ERR3 codes, but the stove never really ran right. I've had to adjust the convection blower output, and the glass is always sooted up. My mid 90's Integra insert runs cleaner and better. I am waiting for a replacement combustion blower (noisy bearing), and when I get that, I will check for the air leak.

If I find the air leak, and seal it, what should I do about the adjustment the that was made to my air flow sensor? I do not remember which direction, or how much it was adjusted.
HI.In his listing the service bulletin is for premio and visio stoves,not the integra.If you want to sell your old noisy motor I may be interested.Bob
 
HI.In his listing the service bulletin is for premio and visio stoves,not the integra.If you want to sell your old noisy motor I may be interested.Bob

Right - I did not catch that - oh well, maybe Lucky's will respond with another idea for my issue.

Since it's a warranty replacement, I assume my dealer will want it to send back to Lucky's.
 
Thanks very much for this info. I have a 1 year old Integra free standing that had the ERR3 issue the first day, right after I turned it down after the installer left. I changed the fuel rate, and that helped a little. Finally, my dealer admitted to having the same problem with their floor model and they made an adjustment to the air flow sensor, which the tech came out and adjusted mine. I eliminated the ERR3 codes, but the stove never really ran right. I've had to adjust the convection blower output, and the glass is always sooted up. My mid 90's Integra insert runs cleaner and better. I am waiting for a replacement combustion blower (noisy bearing), and when I get that, I will check for the air leak.

If I find the air leak, and seal it, what should I do about the adjustment the that was made to my air flow sensor? I do not remember which direction, or how much it was adjusted.

Not sure what adjustment a tech could have made to the airflow sensor. It's a computer sensor that has no way to be adjusted. So I would question what, exactly, that was. A couple of thoughts..
 
Thanks very much for this info. I have a 1 year old Integra free standing that had the ERR3 issue the first day, right after I turned it down after the installer left. I changed the fuel rate, and that helped a little. Finally, my dealer admitted to having the same problem with their floor model and they made an adjustment to the air flow sensor, which the tech came out and adjusted mine. I eliminated the ERR3 codes, but the stove never really ran right. I've had to adjust the convection blower output, and the glass is always sooted up. My mid 90's Integra insert runs cleaner and better. I am waiting for a replacement combustion blower (noisy bearing), and when I get that, I will check for the air leak.

If I find the air leak, and seal it, what should I do about the adjustment the that was made to my air flow sensor? I do not remember which direction, or how much it was adjusted.

Not sure what adjustment a tech could have made to the airflow sensor. It's a computer chip that has no way to be adjusted. So I would question what, exactly, that was.

A couple of thoughts..

1. Have you put the stove into the FU2 setting? This is done by pressing menu 8 times (cycles through the 7 days of the week), then when you see PS in the top line of the display, press enter until you see "FU" in the top line. If the current value is 1, use the plus button to change it to 2. Press enter to lock it in, menu 2 times to exit back out. This change is immediate and will increase the base RPM of the combustion fan roughly 27% and change the self cleaning cycle to every 45 minutes. In most cases this solves the problem. This may be what the tech referred to as an airflow sensor adjustment .

2. You mention the glass gets sooted up. Some sooting is normal. If the stove is running properly the soot should be more of an amber color. A stove that's starving for air, or that has an air leak, tends to produce black soot as opposed to an amber color.

Is it a black soot? How quickly does it happen after you clean it? Have you tried different pellets? Do you have direct outside air to the stove?

3. Who's the dealer and when did they order the new blower? Serial number would be helpful.
 
Not sure what adjustment a tech could have made to the airflow sensor. It's a computer chip that has no way to be adjusted. So I would question what, exactly, that was.

A couple of thoughts..

1. Have you put the stove into the FU2 setting? This is done by pressing menu 8 times (cycles through the 7 days of the week), then when you see PS in the top line of the display, press enter until you see "FU" in the top line. If the current value is 1, use the plus button to change it to 2. Press enter to lock it in, menu 2 times to exit back out. This change is immediate and will increase the base RPM of the combustion fan roughly 27% and change the self cleaning cycle to every 45 minutes. In most cases this solves the problem. This may be what the tech referred to as an airflow sensor adjustment .

2. You mention the glass gets sooted up. Some sooting is normal. If the stove is running properly the soot should be more of an amber color. A stove that's starving for air, or that has an air leak, tends to produce black soot as opposed to an amber color.

Is it a black soot? How quickly does it happen after you clean it? Have you tried different pellets? Do you have direct outside air to the stove?

3. Who's the dealer and when did they order the new blower? Serial number would be helpful.

1. That was the first thing I did after it happened that first day. It diminished the failure rate a little. It may have been a trim pot on the circuit board that he adjusted as I was not really looking over his shoulder. I had already removed the side panel for him.

2. It's been awhile since I have bothered to clean it, but I would say within a few hours, and it's dark enough so as not to be able see through it, except around the edges. In contrast, I have a mid '90's Integra insert on my first floor and it has a very light amber tint to the glass, and I have not cleaned it all season. Yes, many different pellets. No direct outside air. This is not an "airtight" house, and I questioned the dealer about that and they assured me that would not be the problem with my house/install.

3. Evergreen Home & Hearth in Ellsworth, Maine. Around the third week in December. I also ordered one for my old stove as it has just started to make a slight noise, and want to swap it out at the next cleaning. They called to tell me that one arrived - I told him I would pick that one up when the warranty replacement came in for the new stove arrived. Serial number is 32108, and I noticed the date on the serial number plate was June, 2009 - is this normal for a stove I purchased new from a dealer in November, 2012?

I appreciate your postings here - I am in the same situation - I am an authorized Suzuki outboard engine dealer, and certified electronic fuel injection tech, and I do the same as you on a few of the boating forums.

Thanks very much,

Gary
 
Hey another mechanic!Well,as they have not imported any rikas in probably 5 years,that is about right.You did get a new stove,just old.You should have been told this before purchase.Tractors used to do this,wasn't registered untill it was sold.makes people feel better.Anyway,you should have full warrenty,and there is a possibility yours needs programming update or board update.Also,just to cover all the bases,what type of exhaust did you put in?The older integras,like we have,had an adjustment on the air flow meter,but should never be changed.Do not think the newer ones do,sealed like a car.PS,
do not throw your old combustion blower away(just give it to me!)you can put bearings in it for a few dollars.Just do not drop it,the hall sensor is fragile.Hope this helps.Bob
 
Hey another mechanic!Well,as they have not imported any rikas in probably 5 years,that is about right.You did get a new stove,just old.You should have been told this before purchase.Tractors used to do this,wasn't registered untill it was sold.makes people feel better.Anyway,you should have full warrenty,and there is a possibility yours needs programming update or board update.Also,just to cover all the bases,what type of exhaust did you put in?The older integras,like we have,had an adjustment on the air flow meter,but should never be changed.Do not think the newer ones do,sealed like a car.PS,
do not throw your old combustion blower away(just give it to me!)you can put bearings in it for a few dollars.Just do not drop it,the hall sensor is fragile.Hope this helps.Bob

Bob,

This is me - www.lakeandsea.com .

I was not aware that they have not been importing them.

My firmware version is 2.42.

Exhaust is direct out through the wall.
 
You would(I reccomend)have to call lucky dist. for software versions.Also they are the ultimate decision maker for warrenty repairs,as they were/are the importer.Nice people.Used to work on boats back in MD.We kept a boat and camper down at point lookout.Too many people for me,now.I remember working on a duramax before it was duramax.Most people don't know it is an isuzu marine engine.
 
Yeah, I figured I'll have call them. I just don't like bypassing an authorized dealer - I've always made sure that none of my customers have had to call Suzuki because I could not take care of their problem.
 
Gary,

v2.42 is the most current version for your stove.

On the earlier correspondence, "It may have been a trim pot on the circuit board that he adjusted" again, I am not sure what that could possibly be. The only place you can make adjustments is FU1 to FU2, the CF adjustment (convection fan), which has no impact on combustion, and the CL frequency (cleaning cycle).

There are other adjustments that can be made, but you have to gain access to a password protected menu in order to make changes to those settings. These would only be done under specific instruction by me at Lucky and I have never done so for your serial number. I am really puzzled as to what they adjusted.

There are some changes that can be made to the password protected settings that might reduce the ER3's, but I am not going to post them in a public forum because the changes are made on a case by case basis. There is risk of creating unsafe operating conditions if someone were to begin making changes without specific guidance. So it's done with caution. Send me a private message with your email address and I will send you instructions on how/what to change.

If you're glass is getting black quickly, I would be looking for an air leak somewhere on the stove or you lack sufficient replacement air. There are specific areas to leak check. I would use a stick lighter for this purpose
  1. Remove the right and left side panels, front and back.

  2. Start the stove (These checks need to be done while in the start-up cycle when the convection fan is not running)

  3. With the lighter, take and run the flame completely around the all four gasketed edges of the door. The only place the lighter's flame should draw in is the air wash along the top three panes of glass. If you get a draw in around the edges of the door where it should be sealed, you have a leak and it should be corrected.

  4. On the back side of the stove there are two clip nuts on both sides just behind the firewall. These clip nuts are what the cast wall retainer screws thread into. These nuts should be completely sealed with hi-temp silicone since they are outside of the sealed combustion chamber. Exposed silicone tends to shrivel up and crack over time so checking this area should be part of an annual service.

    Run the lighter over these four nuts and see if the flame draws in. If so, you need to remove all traces of the old silicone, clean the metal surfaces, and re-apply a very liberal amount of hi-temp silicone that's rated at 600° or higher. You want to completely cover and seal those nuts to prevent any possible leak.

  5. If you end up doing this, you need to follow the silicone mfgr's instructions on how long to let it cure before using the stove.

  6. On the right side of the stove behind the firewall, there is a round clean out-port. It's held in place by a 1" knob. Run the lighter around the circumference of the cover. If the flame draws in you have a leak.

  7. Check every other area of the stove you can see where two metal surfaces come together. The only place air should be drawing in is through the cast iron air-intake tube, the air wash on the top of the glass, the scraper rod passages on the top of the stove, and a small amount through the pellet feed drop.

    The stove control software knows about these so the amount of air drawn in through these areas is calculated into the logic. If you get air drawing in from anywhere else, there's a leak and it needs to be resolved.

  8. And although your older Integra doesn't seem to have these same problems, if you rule out air leaks I would not rule out insufficient outside air.

Hope this helps.
Stacy
 
Thank you Stacy - I think I sent you a PM - it looks like they call it a "Conversation" on this forum".

I will check those items next time I clean, which should be if & when I get the new combustion blower .
 
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