Yep I am aware that it isnt a well liked stove, that being said its what I have to work with until next spring when I can afford to replace it, The question I have is how does the slanted rear heat baffel come out? I need to remove it so I can properly clean the stove. The air tube is blocked with ash and I can only assume that there is a bunch of crud between the walls, any thoughts? Im sure it comes out but dont want to get western with it in case I am missing something obvious, Thanks!
Scandia 315 again
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I have read enough threads on this site to make my eyeballs twirl LOL.
But the problem remains, there is crud behind that fireback and sucking the tiny air tube holes with a vacuum isnt cutting it,
The tube is still restricted and not functional or impaired. I may have given the impression that I hate this stove, but I actually like the old beast, looks good (to me) works OK but needs some love is all.
I see the top comes off but I am sure those old nuts will snap off.
could be that I am SOL until summer when I can rip it apart and see what needs to be done.
On a side note this site sure was a nice find, lot of great info from many great folks, any suggestions for cleaning that tube to get by till the rebuild will be welcome
Thanks!
But the problem remains, there is crud behind that fireback and sucking the tiny air tube holes with a vacuum isnt cutting it,
The tube is still restricted and not functional or impaired. I may have given the impression that I hate this stove, but I actually like the old beast, looks good (to me) works OK but needs some love is all.
I see the top comes off but I am sure those old nuts will snap off.
could be that I am SOL until summer when I can rip it apart and see what needs to be done.
On a side note this site sure was a nice find, lot of great info from many great folks, any suggestions for cleaning that tube to get by till the rebuild will be welcome
Thanks!
I merged your two threads together as that may help folks understand what you are hoping to accomplish.
It's not a stove that comes up all the frequently these days which means I don't think there are too many people around with direct experience here.
Maybe if you posted a few pics of what you are trying to work on, even those of us without direct experience with the unit may be able to give you some advice.
No luck getting in there w/ a bent up coat hanger then going at it with compressed air? I've also had luck getting into tough places by using electrical tape and attaching a piece of smaller tubing of whatever length you like to the shop vac hose.
pen
It's not a stove that comes up all the frequently these days which means I don't think there are too many people around with direct experience here.
Maybe if you posted a few pics of what you are trying to work on, even those of us without direct experience with the unit may be able to give you some advice.
No luck getting in there w/ a bent up coat hanger then going at it with compressed air? I've also had luck getting into tough places by using electrical tape and attaching a piece of smaller tubing of whatever length you like to the shop vac hose.
pen
Yep I have had limited luck with those methods at best. I believe there is a tower of crud between the walls that as I clean the tube it simply falls down and replaces the removed crud.
I actually had planned to post pics after work today but by the time I came home it was too dark fot a decent shot.
I will try when I have better light to show what I was thinking, As far as the unknown brand goes I will say my bad as
it seemed like everyone knows that the scandia 315 is a replica of the old defiant.
I found manuals for both models on this site and no mention of removing that plate is contained in either.
I assumed it is a no can do, So gave up.
I did glean much knowledge on both models for which I am very grateful,
Learned a ton about this stove, and wood to boot! I am suprised at the amount misconceptions I have had about this old beast.(and wood)
Thanks kindly for your reply Ken
I actually had planned to post pics after work today but by the time I came home it was too dark fot a decent shot.
I will try when I have better light to show what I was thinking, As far as the unknown brand goes I will say my bad as
it seemed like everyone knows that the scandia 315 is a replica of the old defiant.
I found manuals for both models on this site and no mention of removing that plate is contained in either.
I assumed it is a no can do, So gave up.
I did glean much knowledge on both models for which I am very grateful,
Learned a ton about this stove, and wood to boot! I am suprised at the amount misconceptions I have had about this old beast.(and wood)
Thanks kindly for your reply Ken
Holy Smokes! I missed that line, compressed air ! Now that is a dang good idea !
I cant believe I didnt think of that,wow I am embarrassed at myself
I will try that this weekend,I will post up if it works!
Thanks Ken (the dork)
I cant believe I didnt think of that,wow I am embarrassed at myself
I will try that this weekend,I will post up if it works!
Thanks Ken (the dork)
that stove is a defiant 1 look a like to clean the secondary air feed and to remove the fire back if it is the same as a defiant the top will have to come off. the nuts on the top go to rods into the base. the nuts are made of brass. so you need to some how hold the rod inside the stove and turn the nut slow.
Thanks kindly for the reply, I made a twirly hook tool from a old gun cleaning rod section and a length of stainless wire, spun that thing in each port till I got blisters, used the compressed air idea that I missed in the above reply and had sucess!!, still not satisfied though. I will do a complete tear down and inspection come spring. It will survive this winter if I am careful, when I get the top off I will know if its worth bothering with or not.
Thanks again guys Ken
Just a follow up on this old scandia 315, After much messing around with this old stove Ive come to the conclusion that its time to just replace it.
I really like cast iron stoves but most modern stoves seem to be steel.
Also the newer ones all seem to 6in outlets, and of course This has 8in up and out, so I will need to replace all the pipe correct?
Oh well just my luck, This one is doomed anyways I noticed a hairline crack in the top about 2in long, doesnt leak yet but its ruined for sure,
Now onto a quest for a decent stove that will work in a double wide palace LOL! without burning the place down.
I you have any ideas on a fair stove let me know
Thanks Ken
I really like cast iron stoves but most modern stoves seem to be steel.
Also the newer ones all seem to 6in outlets, and of course This has 8in up and out, so I will need to replace all the pipe correct?
Oh well just my luck, This one is doomed anyways I noticed a hairline crack in the top about 2in long, doesnt leak yet but its ruined for sure,
Now onto a quest for a decent stove that will work in a double wide palace LOL! without burning the place down.
I you have any ideas on a fair stove let me know
Thanks Ken
No, you don't need to replace your pipe. Most 6" stoves will work on 8" pipe unless the run is short. There are several good cast iron stoves on the market. Start a new thread in the main hearth forum on the topic. Start off by describing the area you are trying to heat, chimney, current setup, etc.. We'll help you find a good new replacement that will work a lot better.
Hi. I am new here. I have the Scandia 315 downstairs and it works great! Do you happen to have the Installation and Operating Instructions for the 315? the booklet includes about 11 models, the 315 is one of them, the part for the 315 is about 6 pages long. Maybe if you can see how it goes together, that may help you take it apart? I have the booklet and can scan in the part for the 315 and send it to you. Let me know.
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