Should I try to repair my circular saw?

[wahoowad]

I was testing different ways to quickly cut up a pallet. Damn if I didn't burn up my circular saw cutting the boards off the thicker parts. I'm not sure if I bound up the blade too much or if the saw was about to go anyway. Upon opening it up I see both brush holders and spring assemblies were all farked up, broke, burnt. One had completely come apart, the other was cockeyed in the brush holder and binding against the winding mechanism. The saw is an average homeowner Skilsaw brand, although I haven't used it a whole heck of a lot. I should be able to slide in new brush holders if I can buy replacement parts. Just wondering if anybody else has replaced brushes in a circular saw?

I can probably buy a replacement for $50-$75 but I like to fix stuff when possible.

 

[kevinmoelk]

I've fixed them before. That's the whole reason they make replaceable brushes, lol. Though most folks just buy new when one goes caput. Glad to see someone of like mind. I'm always fixing things, squeezing the most life I can out of them.

Brushes are $5-10 bucks, possibly less, so well worth the money if the rest of the saw is in good shape and you are happy with it.

-Kevin

EDIT: for brushes you can go to any hardware store. Lots of places on line. I seem to recall seeing some at home cheapo.

 

[wahoowad]

The brushes and springs go inside a plastic holder. I need the plastic holder too. Hopefully they come as an assembly because they pop out / pop in pretty easy.

 

[Corey]

I've burnt up a couple of skill saws myself. Fried one because I bolted it to a pice of plywood, flipped the plywood over and used it as a table saw. The other time it was ~110F outside and I was ripping 1x6's into 1x1's for a project the wife had to have the next day. I knew I was in trouble when i had to hold the saw with gloves because it was burning my hands. I guess the cheap saws just weren't meant to run long, hard, and hot.

I don't know what the brush holders cost, but the saw I bought was under $40. At least at that price, I don't feel too bad if it falls off a ladder, the roof, or what ever other hazards they encounter.

Corey

 

[BigV]

I’ve burned up my share of circular saws too. About 5 years ago I bought a heavy duty worm drive circular saw. I’ve cut up over 200 pallets and it has never missed a beat. Those pallets (and nails) are hard on the blade though!

 

[nshif]

If in the meltdown it damaged the armature then toss it. If not repair it and dont use it so hard. On the other hand a Skill 77 or equiv is a much better saw that will take almost all the abuse you can throw at it. Ive built a house, a barn, a garage, and numerous other out buildings with it and it still works fine. But they cost over $150.

 

[elkimmeg]

I have 7 or more circular saws here all pro types. Want a decent saw fro around $100 get a Makita. From the sound of it ,you had a cheapie homeowner saw probably, less then $40
If you are binding the blade time to figure out how to modify your cutting habits. also a sharp blade is always the way to go. Skill at one time set the standard for pro saws, till they decided to make cheapie homeowner saws. I have one that has been part of 50 house frames and still is working and cutting finew The roller ball bearings turn a long time after the trigger is released
the saw is so well constructed .that even today 35 years later. it is worth replacing brushes. I tell you a good yard sale saw to look for, was th older all Metal Craftman's same type of roller ball bearings as the old skill saws. Most of my tools are Makita and Milwilkee ( sp)

 

[wahoowad]

the armature does not appear to have any scoring or displacement, but it is darker where the brushes were adjacent to it. I can't tell if this discoloration is due to some kind of overheating or undesirable contact, or just normal wear. I don't tear many motors apart, but have done enough to replace brushes.

I'm waiting for Skil to respond on how I can get parts. It is worth it to pay a few bucks for brushes and see if it can be salvaged.

 

[ozarkjeep]

I usually use some brake cleaner or other fast flashing solvent to clean the carbon from the cummutator when replaceing brushes.
also if it is NOT smooth, sand it down with fine paper or emory cloth, the brushes need a smooth surface to ride against for longest life.

this was from a 2 second google search for skilsaw brushes.

http://www.mendingshed.com/5150parts.html

the armature does not appear to have any scoring or displacement, but it is darker where the brushes were adjacent to it. I can't tell if this discoloration is due to some kind of overheating or undesirable contact, or just normal wear. I don't tear many motors apart, but have done enough to replace brushes.

I'm waiting for Skil to respond on how I can get parts. It is worth it to pay a few bucks for brushes and see if it can be salvaged.

 

[ozarkjeep]

the copper thing is the commutator ( where the brushes 'ride)

http://www.k9ape.com/new/Commutator.html

 

[wahoowad]

$13 for a pair of brushes and my saw is back in business.

While it was broken I used my new Sears 19.2 volt cordless sawzall to cut some pallets. It ran through them like a hot knife through butter. I doubt I will even try the circular saw again, the sawzall is the ticket for me.

 

[wahoowad]

Haha - dumbass me did it again. Same thing too, cutting up a friggin pallet. DOH!

I checked this post to see if I listed where I bought the brushes last time. Stupid thing worked fine with the replacement brushes until I went after another pallet. I need a circular saw in the garage. Not sure whether to fix again (and avoind pallets) or get another. It is used little but handy as heck when I need it.

 

[TreePapa]

If $$ is tight, look for a used Skill 77. If you can spare the $$, get a new 77. I've had mine for over 20 years ... it's the gold "Anniversary" model, cut a whole bunch of c*rp with it (including my thumb, once), it's never ever died. I've changed the oil, tho' not as often as I should. I should prolly replace the brushes just 'cuz. The sucker is heavy, tho. And it will bite you if you don't use it right (see above).

Most of the time these days, I reach for the 18v Ryobi (yes, Ryobi) circ. saw first - it's much lighter and easier to use, but I don't expect it to last 20 years unless I use it VERY little.

Peace,
- Sequoia

 

[Danno77]

man, I cant believe this. I have had the same Skilsaw for about 8 years and last winter it sat in a foot of water for probably a week when the basement flooded. Still runs strong! I have cut a lot of wood with that thing. bummer to hear your luck. I'd do more than replace the brushes on that one, something must not be right with it, start fresh with another one.

 

[Corey]

Ha - too funny...well not the saw part, but I read your OP and thought I would relate my skilsaw experience...then I noticed the date and found out I already had!

So the brushes have died 2x during pallet cutting? Is the cutting really going that hard / long? If so it may just be the saw but I'd wonder if there aren't contributing factors. Are you using a super long extension cord which may cause low voltage at the saw? Is there something with the cutting technique which blocks air flow more than normal? Did you get good wear in/contact or is there excessive sparking between the brushes and com? (this could cause excessive heat build-up) Are you using a really dull blade - or one where the 'set' is narrow or worn and causing the blade to pinch. Any other factors which would cause a higher load, slower blade speed (and correspondingly higher amp draw and lower cooling air flow) ?

As I mentioned above, I run about the cheapest saw wal-mart has to offer. The only time I've had issues was running it for a long time -as a table saw, or in very excessive heat. A few years ago, I ripped through a truckload of pallets with my $40 saw which was several years old at the time - it never missed a beat. Still using the same saw today.

Either way, hope it works out. Those pallets are pretty hard pickin's for the amount of wood you get - much less burning up a saw every time!

 

[wahoowad]

I think what is happening is that this saw of mine is a low end homeowner saw and doesn't have the torque to keep going when these pallet slats shift as they get cut at one end. They are partially binding my blade and causing the brushes to burn up. I need to remember to not cut pallets with it anymore. It has done well on everything else.

 

[Gooserider]

I don't cut up a lot of pallets, as I prefer cutting up trees, but I have had to chop a few in making floors for my wood shed and other such projects... What I've found is that my best results have been when using my Milwaukee Sawzall with a "wood & nails" demo type blade. It would cut fast, and the reciprocating action would often bust up the boards so that you didn't always have to cut all the way through them. Downside is that it does put a beating on the operator.

I found a circ saw tended to bind as wahoowad mentioned, and also tended to have trouble with the wide spacing between the boards. It was especially bad when making the second cut to get the other end of boards that had already been cut once.. In addition, while you can get demo blades for a circ saw, most of them don't really like hitting nails...

The chain saw was kind of overkill, and tended to want to either kick back, or toss the boards that were cut at you, not to mention the worry about hitting nails and so forth.

My jigsaw would cut quite nicely, but it was SLOW...

Gooserider