Shutting down for the season / Termovar leak question

[gorsuchmill]

I'm mothballing the Tarm for the season and had to drain it down to fix a couple of small leaks. I was wondering whether I should refill it or leave it empty until next winter.

Also, after fixing a couple of other leaks I've developed a leak at one of the connections of the Termovar Loading Unit. I've made several attempts to stop the leak but cannot seem to get the paper gasket to seal. The surfaces seem to mate fairly well, but, for some reason, I continue to get a steady drip. Do any of you have suggestions of other things to use to seal the flange, such as neoprene gasket, liquid gasket, etc.?

Thanks.

Lee

 

[flyingcow]

I had the same problem with the loading valve.
It seems to stop after I adjusted a hanger. Both sides seem to effect it.
Don't know if that's any help.

 

[WoodNotOil]

My gaskets started leaking on my Termovar after working on my system over the summer. I used a tube of gasket repair stuff. Can't recall the brand. It was something my father had on hand in his shop. You just squeezed it on the gasket and assemble it. When it dries it hardens into the gaps that might leak.

 

[flyingcow]

I'm assuming you have to be careful so you won't get any into the workings of the valve?

 

[WoodNotOil]

You have to let it sit for a set amount of time before repressurizing the system.

 

[jebatty]

The fix is simple. Buy some paper type gasket material, like that used for car radiators, from an auto parts store. Get thinner rather than thicker material. Cut a new gasket being careful to make it fit the locknut fairly snugly, but not binding, on the outside rim where the gasket fits inside the locknut. The hole size in the gasket is not too critical, look at the inside of the Termovar and make the hole at least as big as the opening in the Termovar. Then rub the newly made gasket, both sides, with vaseline to make it slippery. Then reassemble.

The vaseline allows the locknut to slip on the gasket without tearing it or binding it while the locknut tightens up. The first gasket or two I made I did not use vaseline, and the gaskets failed, leaked, etc. After using the vaseline, no problem at all.

You likely will have to buy a sheet of gasket material much larger than you need, but you will have plenty on hand for future uses!

 

[steam man]

I think any quality gasket sealer for hot water/steam would suffice to stop a problem drip. I am thinking maybe high temp rtv-just a thin smear. My take on filling or emptying the boiler is this-unless it the water side can be opened up and dried out and kept in a dry atmosphere, I would keep it filled. However, make sure it has been fired to get as much air out of the system as possible.

Mike

 

[flyingcow]

also i keep forgetting the obvious, contact bio-heat. It's their equipment, they should have a fix in mind.

 

[ohbie1]

I had the same problem on one arm during initial assembly. I used PERMATEX liquid gasket (often used in automotive apps). Just a thin coating on each side of the existing gasket worked perfectly. It comes in hardening or stay pliable versions.

 

[steam man]

I had the same problem on one arm during initial assembly. I used PERMATEX liquid gasket (often used in automotive apps). Just a thin coating on each side of the existing gasket worked perfectly. It comes in hardening or stay pliable versions.

#1 is the hard setting-#2 is the "stay pliable" type. Don't use the #1 hard setting or you may never get that valve apart again without destroying it.

Mike

 

[flyingcow]

That was my first thought.

 

[jebatty]

That's why I used a paper gasket with vaseline.

 

[gorsuchmill]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I'll try it tonight and see how it goes.